Jackal- Don't feel bad! I like to see people getting involved!

It's all about bringing everyone up TOGETHER. I don't expect everyone to have the answers. I have devoted much of my life to cars. These days, I direct my efforts toward HIGH-PERFORMANCE FORD TRUCKS.

The point behind the questions was it is easy to overlook the obvious. Sometimes the obvious is not so obvious if you haven't been exposed.

I have made MANY MISTAKES along the way and I hope to be able to save everyone the headache of making the same mistakes. These ducts are expensive; why not get the best bang for your buck?

I feel these products are all of excellent quality. Some have characteristics more desireable than others. When dealing with the intake duct, a composite or phenolic material will not transfer as much heat to the intake charge. Combine this smooth flow path with a sealed filter housing and these products can make a noticeable power increase OVER what they are rated for on the dyno.

WHITEFLIGHT- I am willing to bet our trucks will put out 20-40 HP more on a 40 degree night than they would on an 80-100 degree day. This equates to dropping E.Ts. .2-.4 sec in the 1/4 mile. This is proportionate, meaning we will all notice the difference, regardless of our setups.

This is a rough estimate, and is not a formula, but my partner and I have proven the .2-.4 sec. drop. You can use .1 sec decrease per 10 HP increase as a general rule; very general.

This seems like a small gain, but I can definitely feel a KICK in the PANTS when it is cooler outside!

I will try to get a dyno run at night. I put 217 HP to the ground during a summer day, just before lunch.

 

GIJoeCam is correct. As mentioned a few posts back..."The change in temp is used to extrapolate other required properties of the intake air"...a change in temp produces a change in resistance from which eventually a flow rate can be calculated. But that's the point of this discussion. A MAF sensor doesn't MEASURE air flow, but instead its input to the ECU is used to CALCULATE air flow (volumetric or mass air flow).

[This message has been edited by gah (edited 10-23-2000).]

 

Stop! You guys are giving me a headache.All I know is that I have the K&N on my 00 and it made a HUGE differance.I also drove a friend's stock 00 and it was night and day.

 

OK so I have a question now. Is heavy drilling of the stock airbox worth it? I have heard it mentioned a couple of times before and was going to give it a try as I don't want to spend the money on an aftermarket airbox, but don't want to mess anything up either. I do have the K&N filter.

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1996 F150 4x4 302, 102,000 miles

 

Well, on my 4.2L I cut the box so that it was an open element, but still secured to the bracket, and held the filter. I loved the sound, but hated the idea of the warm air. Now however, I'm a little concerned with my modified setup. It seems as though it wants more air. I pulled the air silencer, and replaced it with a 3" to 3" coupler, and pulled the 2" restriction tube out of the 90 degree angle box, but I'm afraid that's causing power robbing turbulance. I'm not sure what to do, so I'm leaving it as is for now. Unless someone can change / ease my mind.

-AR

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2001 F-150 XLT 4X4 Off-Road, S/C, FS, Black
- 4.6L Triton V8 (Romeo, 20 HP Increase)
- 5 Speed / 3:55 Reg. Axle
- Keyless
- Premium Audio CD
Mods.
- K&N Cold Airbox / Throttle Body Mod.
- Flowmaster 40 (Stock Setup with 3 1/2" x 10" Gibson Tip)
- Cranked Torsion Bars
- Bugshield
- Bedliner
- Ventshades
Build Date: 8/23/00 (Kansas City Plant)

arobbins@mail.liberty.k12.mo.us

 

I want to stir the pot a bit.... Doesn't the MAF sensor actually measure the change in resistance of the element inside as the air passes over it?! Then the computer interprets the resistance signal to calculate the theoretical airflow through the intake, right? (I believe that's why a dirty MAF affects the engine running so much... changes the SIGNAL, not the VOLUME of airflow) I think I have to go with answer E... None of the above. :-)

Just wanted to stir the pot... ;-)
-Joe-


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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
Deposit on '00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Sunroof, currently missing the fuel filler door, but they're working on that..

 

I want to stir the pot a bit.... Doesn't the MAF sensor actually measure the change in resistance of the element inside as the air passes over it?! Then the computer interprets the resistance signal to calculate the theoretical airflow through the intake, right? (I believe that's why a dirty MAF affects the engine running so much... changes the SIGNAL, not the VOLUME of airflow) I think I have to go with answer E... None of the above. :-)

Just wanted to stir the pot... ;-)

Throw us some more SAE questions... I like those... I didn't know they were multiple choice, though... those are too easy.

-Joe-


------------------
98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
Deposit on '00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Sunroof, currently missing the fuel filler door, but they're working on that..

 

I am trying to keep this simple.

Yes, the MAF and other sensors are "inputs" required for the processor to make calculations.

The processor is sensing a voltage drop. The value changes when resistance changes.

Volume is a constant based on bore and stroke. Density varies with atmospheric conditions.

I too pulled the silencer, and in looking at the square edges, I decided to go with the PVC intake. It provides a much smoother transition, but not as smooth as an Airaid or K&N. It IS effective, though.



[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 10-24-2000).]