I just bought a 92 Custom 4.9, and changed the oil yesterday and have 2 quick questions...

1) The bottom of the oil pan was fairly rusted. The paint was still on most of the pan, but the very bottom flat part was rusted and fairly pitted - enough to concern me. Has anyone had one of these rust through? What can I do about it? It actually sounded thinner than other parts of the pan, but then again, I do not know what the internal baffling looks like.

Just to make myself feel better, I wire brushed it and hit it with some primer.

2) I want to out a Fumoto drain valve on it, does anyone know the drain plug size off the top of their head?

I am more concerned about #1 right now though.

thanks,
Matt

 

Hey Matt,

2) 1/2" 20

1) I've never seen one rust through, but I live in an arid climate. There is another fellow that is here sometimes that had the same concern, and elected to replace the pan. I walked him through it, and as I recall, he was happy that he decided to replace it. You could always wait till it starts leaking, but as you well know, by then it may be too late. Let me know if you need any help.

Take care,
-Chris

 

yeah, its not at the point where it is seeping through or anything, but I was thinking 'that's not a good point to get to'

can you just simply drop the pan?

 

wire brush the primer you just put on it off and spray some "duro -Extend" on it . it chemicly reacts to rust turning it back into metal .then spray with paint/primer . you will never have to worry bout it rusting through after that .

 

Ray-

That sounds like killer stuff. My only concern would be if the interior of the pan had already started to fall apart, what kind of crap might get into the oil/pick up. can that stuff really stop the damage, or just on the surface? Curious! Also, where do you get it, and what does it run?

Matt-

No, but you could do it in a day. I had to do it unexpectedly, and was done before lunch. It sounds like alot more work than it really is. The radiator needs to be removed, and the motor mounts need to be separated (one bolt each). What really makes the job easier is the new Fel-Pro gasket for it. It's a quality one piece gasket, but what's trick are these little blue plastic alignment pins that come with the gasket. You screw them into the corner bolt holes in the block, and then the gasket "snaps" over them, and then the pan, keeping the holes aligned for you while keeping both hands free. Best idea since perforated toilet paper.

Take care,
-Chris

 

It's very unlikely that the pan would rust from the inside out. The inside of the pan is always covered in oil especially while the engine's running the crank is showering the whole bottom end with a constant sprinkle of oil.

Your pan is rusting from scraping mud gravel and other abrasive stuff you find on the road. It scrapes off the paint and begins to rust. Do like macgyver said, wirebrush or sand off the primer, it's very porous and will attract and hold moisture. Clean it up, paint it with some rust converter paint, and if the mood strikes you can follow that up with spray paint.

Good luck

 

Just to clarify, I wasn't implying that the pan was rusting from the inside out. I have never had a problem with a rusty pan at all. But, I have done body work, and have seen how rust acts like a cancer, and spreads much farther and deeper than you would ever believe. I have found it common to have to remove 6" square to remove all of the rust from what appeared to be a spot the size of a dime.

Take care,
-Chris

 

I had this happen to me but to the point where the oil was actually leaking through. It was a beater and I really just wanted to get through the winter so I did the following

Empty the oil
Clean off the surface as best you can
Get a tube of Goop (do they sell it in the US??)
Start spreading it out over the bottom of the pan

Let it tack up and put a few more coats on, this fix did two things, it solved the leak problem and provided protection (Goop is tough stuff).

If it hasn't started to leak through wire brush it, paint it with a good rust paint and it should be OK

Sure it sound cheesy but it works

 

Chris
yes it does work . and it works well . sprays out clear and turns the rust and affected metal black .as i said it is a chemical reaction . it uses the rust's already chemical reactions against it . it is great stuff . i have used it before . as long as it isnt already rusted through then it should be good to go
it is widely availble . it is a Loctite product . Duro Extend . it isnt expensive . about as much as a can of paint . maybe a bit more .

Loctite extend rust treatment

 

here is the technical data sheet of it .

TDS Extend

 

I may try that stuff.

I need to get under there and do a little more bangin' around to see just how deep the rust is. I used to have a bottle of that stuff around. It is a plastic based coverter that seals everything.

appreciate it,
Matt

 

My parents have a 1995 Ford Econoline 150 with a 351 V-8. Their pan rusted out and began leaking, It had to be replaced to the tune of $800 in late 1998. It was just out of the three year warranty. My dad wrote Ford a dozen times and they told him "Tough S@%t"
Dan

 

the 4.9L is notorious for the oil pans rusting away and becoming a BIG problem. i had to replace mine on a truck only 6 years old.

 

I guess it just depends on where you live. In any case, the 4.9L ended up being one of the easiest oil pan swaps I've done.

Ray-

awesome info. Thanks much!!

Take care,
-Chris

 

anytime man