Okay guys, does anyone know what this might be, before I "try" to take it to
the dealer. My fuel pump went out a couple of weeks ago, and I got the
dealer (after much trouble) to install a new one under warranty. It was
working fine, but now whenever I start it, it takes twice as long to start.
Like when I turn they key, it used to take about 2-3 seconds of turning, and
then it would fire. Now it takes at least 7 to 8 seconds. I think that the
fuel system might not be retaining pressure. I found that the gas filler
tube was leaking bad, the dealer forgot to tighten a hose clamp and gas was
splashing out. I can't think of why it would take so long for it to start,
it obviously isn't getting fuel at first. After it is started it runs fine
though. Any suggestions would help, I'd rather just fix it myself. Thanks.

-Chris-


------------------
99 black f150 4x2 ext. cab sport w/4.6 V8. external mods. include:
3" body lift, 3.5" fabtech lift, airaid FIPK, JBA headers, Superchip headlight/taillight covers, wiper schroud, shadeblade, ventshade, bug deflector, bed liner, tonno cover, and custom duel exhaust out the sides with 3.5" chrome tips and NO muffler. Tires: Mickey Thompson Baja HP 35 12.50 17 internal mods. include:
Pioneer indash cdplayer, 2 12" subs, 400 watt amp, remote start, and aftermarket alarm http://www.4tssinc.com/truck http://www.mifordtrucks.com




[This message has been edited by christrucker (edited 10-19-2000).]

 

Anyone?!?!

------------------
99 black f150 4x2 ext. cab sport w/4.6 V8. external mods. include:
3" body lift, 3.5" fabtech lift, airaid FIPK, JBA headers, Superchip headlight/taillight covers, wiper schroud, shadeblade, ventshade, bug deflector, bed liner, tonno cover, and custom duel exhaust out the sides with 3.5" chrome tips and NO muffler. Tires: Mickey Thompson Baja HP 35 12.50 17 internal mods. include:
Pioneer indash cdplayer, 2 12" subs, 400 watt amp, remote start, and aftermarket alarm http://www.4tssinc.com/truck http://www.mifordtrucks.com




[This message has been edited by christrucker (edited 10-19-2000).]

 

Sounds like you're having the fuel system leak down when sitting. Haven't had this on a Ford but did have it on a Olds. Basically the fuel was leaking out of the engine area through the bypass back to the fuel tank. No or reduced fuel in the line, the fuel pump had to 'refresh' the level of fuel in the injector lines before there was anything to squirt into the engine. Once the lines were refilled (so to speak - no fuel in the line, no pressure to squirt it) the engine would catch.

It was a few years back, but I think it was some kind of a check-value that turned out to be the problem.

Just throught of something else, airleaks can do it too. Try putting a little talcum powder around the fuel line fitting when you shut it off, and see if anything appears damp after a while. If you do, you've probably found your problem.

Good Luck

[This message has been edited by HCBPH (edited 10-19-2000).]

 

when you get in the truck quick the key to the first position ( radio, a/c comes on but the starter does not engege) this should power up the fuel pump and create pressure. does it still take a long time to start?(i am just guessing)

 

christrucker
HCBPH's idea makes sense. To pin it down more, try turning the key to the run position 4 or 5 times before start. If the injector rails have emptied , that will give the pump extra run time to fill them. I think I read that's what to do if you've run out of gas then add some. That "primes" the injectors.

------------------
97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-K&N-3"
pvc air box mod-Granetelli MAF

 

okay, I did that, and it does take less time to start, still takes longer than it should though. I noticed that the filler tube and the air tube, weren't tight... If the fuel tank isn't pressureized, would it cause the fuel rails to loose pressure? I tightend them up, I haven't tested it yet though.

------------------
99 black f150 4x2 ext. cab sport w/4.6 V8. external mods. include:
3" body lift, 3.5" fabtech lift, airaid FIPK, JBA headers, Superchip headlight/taillight covers, wiper schroud, shadeblade, ventshade, bug deflector, bed liner, tonno cover, and custom duel exhaust out the sides with 3.5" chrome tips and NO muffler. Tires: Mickey Thompson Baja HP 35 12.50 17 internal mods. include:
Pioneer indash cdplayer, 2 12" subs, 400 watt amp, remote start, and aftermarket alarm http://www.4tssinc.com/truck http://www.mifordtrucks.com





[This message has been edited by christrucker (edited 10-19-2000).]

 

christrucker
There are posts on a loose gas cap or removing while running lighting check engine light. I would think something better than tank pressure keeps the fuel primed--like a check valve somewhere around the "fuel pump".
good luck.

------------------
97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-K&N-3"
pvc air box mod-Granetelli MAF

 

I used to build them... sounds like the check valve isn't working corectly in the sending unit... it's tough to get it apart and back together without damaging anything... sounds likethe hose that has it is sitting at a funny angle. This is not normal and should be repaired. If you're interested in doing it yourself, I think I might be able to work something out in terms of getting the necessary parts... (I work near the fuel tank plant where they make them) If it's still under warranty, I'd probably just let them have it until it's right. The hose clamp shows shoddy workmanship and the fuel sending unit is a terribly intricate setup that takes a lot to remove and install without mangling (I installed them on the line for 6 months straight!)

Let me know if I can give you any other info.

-Joe-


------------------
98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
Deposit on '00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Sunroof, currently missing the fuel filler door, but they're working on that..