6qts-vs-7qts Who's correct?
chestnutorp..
My 98 5.4L had the remote oil cooler and it still took only 6 quarts to bring it to the mid point. I sure miss it...the filter was easy to get at.
Flatlander..are you sure it isn't 5.678117677 L

My 98 5.4L had the remote oil cooler and it still took only 6 quarts to bring it to the mid point. I sure miss it...the filter was easy to get at.
Flatlander..are you sure it isn't 5.678117677 L

I have two things to say:
98Fword, could you please explain "warming the engine up so you get all of the nasties out". It doesn't make sense...its a myth that needs to be squashed. Think about it logically. You have the same amount of "nasties" in the bottom of the oil pan as you will when the engine oil is changed just after running it. The same number of "nasties" will get trapped up in the engine as it did before you warmed up the oil!
Secondly, I had my oil changed at the dealership yesterday (for the first time) and paid $37.80 for regular motorcraft oil. They put in 6.25 qts. I LOVE the way they give you an extra .25 quarts so they can charge you for the whole quart and I don't get the other .75!
98Fword, could you please explain "warming the engine up so you get all of the nasties out". It doesn't make sense...its a myth that needs to be squashed. Think about it logically. You have the same amount of "nasties" in the bottom of the oil pan as you will when the engine oil is changed just after running it. The same number of "nasties" will get trapped up in the engine as it did before you warmed up the oil!
Secondly, I had my oil changed at the dealership yesterday (for the first time) and paid $37.80 for regular motorcraft oil. They put in 6.25 qts. I LOVE the way they give you an extra .25 quarts so they can charge you for the whole quart and I don't get the other .75!
I just got a great deal on a 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 Synthetic ($13.99) and now you guys tell me it's back to the store for at least another quart! Dang, trucks are big! 
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Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.
Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS, American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, Ravin Z-55 3" single in/out exaust system, K&N filter, Blaupunkt Houston CD player and PCxt573 speakers, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"
Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), nerf bars, hood and window deflectors.
Pictures:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...3401&a=8556922

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Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.
Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS, American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, Ravin Z-55 3" single in/out exaust system, K&N filter, Blaupunkt Houston CD player and PCxt573 speakers, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"
Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), nerf bars, hood and window deflectors.
Pictures:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...3401&a=8556922
No i dont have a oil cooler or a relocated filter. 6.0qts put me right in the middle. And so far "knock on wood" I haven't noticed any oil consumption...
I called three ford dealerships where i live and got three different answers. How can this be?? Ford needs to get all of there dealers on the same page. Dont they have SHOP MANUALS?? One said 6.0, another 6.5 and one swears that he can get 7.0 in with no problem. I had my oil change by the dealership where i bought my truck at 3,000 miles and they used 6.0 and charged around $20. I really dont understand how there can be such a difference in opinion between ford dealers. If you were comparing independent lube shops mabey....but not the factory dealer. This worries me.
Hey, onemilmhz, I came across the same deal at walmart a while back...around $15 for a 5qt jug...i bought three. Haven's seen anmore since.
"Just because if fits doesn't mean it belong in there" Im sure if i tried i could get 8qts in "physicaly"...but why would i?
Thanks for all the response.
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1999 F-150 XLT SuperCab 2WD, Gold/Tan, 5.4L
MFG date 5/99
Mobile1/802s
I called three ford dealerships where i live and got three different answers. How can this be?? Ford needs to get all of there dealers on the same page. Dont they have SHOP MANUALS?? One said 6.0, another 6.5 and one swears that he can get 7.0 in with no problem. I had my oil change by the dealership where i bought my truck at 3,000 miles and they used 6.0 and charged around $20. I really dont understand how there can be such a difference in opinion between ford dealers. If you were comparing independent lube shops mabey....but not the factory dealer. This worries me.
Hey, onemilmhz, I came across the same deal at walmart a while back...around $15 for a 5qt jug...i bought three. Haven's seen anmore since.
"Just because if fits doesn't mean it belong in there" Im sure if i tried i could get 8qts in "physicaly"...but why would i?
Thanks for all the response.
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1999 F-150 XLT SuperCab 2WD, Gold/Tan, 5.4L
MFG date 5/99
Mobile1/802s
Auxiliary oil coolers in front of the radiator (gotta be aftermarket since Ford uses a different kind), and remote filters won't make any difference unless you can get the oil out of the lines and the cooler when you drain the oil. I have a feeling you could let those suckers drain for an hour and it still won't get a significant amount of oil to drain out of them.
Don't put 7 quarts in your trucks. You run the risk of damaging your engine, especially if you live in an area with lots of hills.
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 10-04-2000).]
Don't put 7 quarts in your trucks. You run the risk of damaging your engine, especially if you live in an area with lots of hills.
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 10-04-2000).]
MIN/MAX. That is the question.
There is no longer a full mark.
I am reminded of a story...
At the first Dealer I started at, a friend was changing the oil in a 5.0 Mustang. We had automatic guns to dispense oil. He stuck the gun in the fill tube, locked the trigger, and then walked away.
The next thing we noticed, oil was running out onto the shop floor. We stopped the gun, and waited for him to come back to find the mess. There was a pool of oil under the car.
Our question to him was "How much oil will a 5.0 hold?". The answer- 16 quarts. How much does it take?
5.
Guys, stick to 6 quarts, unless you have a Power Stroke... lol!
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BLOWN 4.6 5-speed
Where we started.
After a facelift.
Latest MOD!
Trixters-Playground!
trixters-playground@excite.com
F-150online Photo Album
crash@f150fanatic.com
MAGNACHARGER
ALLEN
[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 10-04-2000).]
There is no longer a full mark.
I am reminded of a story...
At the first Dealer I started at, a friend was changing the oil in a 5.0 Mustang. We had automatic guns to dispense oil. He stuck the gun in the fill tube, locked the trigger, and then walked away.
The next thing we noticed, oil was running out onto the shop floor. We stopped the gun, and waited for him to come back to find the mess. There was a pool of oil under the car.
Our question to him was "How much oil will a 5.0 hold?". The answer- 16 quarts. How much does it take?
5.
Guys, stick to 6 quarts, unless you have a Power Stroke... lol!
------------------
BLOWN 4.6 5-speed
Where we started.
After a facelift.
Latest MOD!
Trixters-Playground!
trixters-playground@excite.com
F-150online Photo Album
crash@f150fanatic.com
MAGNACHARGER
ALLEN
[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 10-04-2000).]
DFolk88,
Running your engine long enough to bring the oil up to operating temperature helps to bring any contaminates back into suspension that have fallen out of suspension. Therefore, more of the contaminates will be expelled along with the drain oil. Instead of residing in the bottom of the pan to be picked up by the fresh oil and recirculated in the engine.
Try this little experiment. Fry something in cooking oil and pour the grease into a jar. Then immediately pour it into another jar. Make a mental note of how much trash was left in the first jar (things other than grease). Then let the jar with the grease in it sit for a few days. Pour the grease out of the second jar back into the first jar. Then see how much trash was left behind. Contaminates in our engine oil will fall out of suspension in much the same manner.
I realize our engines aren't full of cooking oil. And the example given is a little extreme. But it makes my point clear, I believe.
If you choose to believe these statements are "myths" and are not logical, so be it. Change your oil when it's cold. You have my blessings. After all, it's your engine.
The statements I make here are in an effort to be helpful to other F-150 Onliners and not to burst people's bubbles or pick nits.
Now, if you have some proof that these statements are myths worthy of squashing, you are absolutely welcome to present it for the rest of us to examine. I am always open minded and capable of learning something new.
BTW: Have you been able to resolve your oil burning problem?
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto, 4.10's, Mag-Hytec diff. cover, Magnacharger supercharger, Superchip, Gibson single cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps, Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount, Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries, Torsion bars cranked up 2.5 turns. Needs one more door.
[This message has been edited by 98fword (edited 10-05-2000).]
Running your engine long enough to bring the oil up to operating temperature helps to bring any contaminates back into suspension that have fallen out of suspension. Therefore, more of the contaminates will be expelled along with the drain oil. Instead of residing in the bottom of the pan to be picked up by the fresh oil and recirculated in the engine.
Try this little experiment. Fry something in cooking oil and pour the grease into a jar. Then immediately pour it into another jar. Make a mental note of how much trash was left in the first jar (things other than grease). Then let the jar with the grease in it sit for a few days. Pour the grease out of the second jar back into the first jar. Then see how much trash was left behind. Contaminates in our engine oil will fall out of suspension in much the same manner.
I realize our engines aren't full of cooking oil. And the example given is a little extreme. But it makes my point clear, I believe.
If you choose to believe these statements are "myths" and are not logical, so be it. Change your oil when it's cold. You have my blessings. After all, it's your engine.
The statements I make here are in an effort to be helpful to other F-150 Onliners and not to burst people's bubbles or pick nits.
Now, if you have some proof that these statements are myths worthy of squashing, you are absolutely welcome to present it for the rest of us to examine. I am always open minded and capable of learning something new.

BTW: Have you been able to resolve your oil burning problem?
------------------
98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto, 4.10's, Mag-Hytec diff. cover, Magnacharger supercharger, Superchip, Gibson single cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps, Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount, Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries, Torsion bars cranked up 2.5 turns. Needs one more door.
[This message has been edited by 98fword (edited 10-05-2000).]
Taken from the PDF version of the 2000 F-150 owners manual...pg's 193 & 194;
ENGINE OIL
Checking the engine oil
Refer to the Scheduled Maintenance Guide for the appropriate intervals for checking the engine oil.
1. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground.
2. Turn the engine off and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan.
3. Set the parking brake and ensure the gearshift is securely latched in P(Park) (automatic transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission).
4. Open the hood. Protect yourself from engine heat.
5. Locate and carefully remove the engine oil level indicator (dipstick).
6. Wipe the indicator clean. Insert the indicator fully, then remove it again.
* If the oil level is between the MIN and MAX marks, the oil level is acceptable. DO NOT ADD OIL.
* If the oil level is below the MIN mark, add enough oil to raise the level within the MIN-MAX range.
* Oil levels above the MAX mark may cause engine damage. Some oil must be removed from the engine by a service technician.
7. Put the indicator back in and ensure it is fully seated.
Adding engine oil
1. Check the engine oil. For instructions, refer to Checking the engine oil in this chapter.
2. If the engine oil level is not within the normal range, add only certified engine oil of the recommended viscosity. Remove the engine oil filler cap and use a funnel to pour the engine oil into the opening.
3. Recheck the engine oil level. Make sure the oil level is not above the MAX mark on the engine oil level indicator (dipstick).
4. Install the indicator and ensure it is fully seated.
5. Fully install the engine oil filler cap by turning the filler cap clockwise until three clicks can be heard.
To avoid possible oil loss, DO NOT operate the vehicle with the engine oil level indicator and/or the engine oil filler cap removed.
Just my .02, but I would do as the GOOD BOOK says, it's the only thing that can make you or break you if something were to happen to the engine. If it were inspected after taken in for warranty work (leaking gaskets) and they found 7 quarts instead of 6, guess who's paying for that bill.....
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Y2K,OxWht,XLT,SC,SB,4X4,ORP,5.4L,4R70W,3.55LS
13 APR 00 Build
11 MAY 00 Pick Up
Mods will come.
ENGINE OIL
Checking the engine oil
Refer to the Scheduled Maintenance Guide for the appropriate intervals for checking the engine oil.
1. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground.
2. Turn the engine off and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan.
3. Set the parking brake and ensure the gearshift is securely latched in P(Park) (automatic transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission).
4. Open the hood. Protect yourself from engine heat.
5. Locate and carefully remove the engine oil level indicator (dipstick).
6. Wipe the indicator clean. Insert the indicator fully, then remove it again.
* If the oil level is between the MIN and MAX marks, the oil level is acceptable. DO NOT ADD OIL.
* If the oil level is below the MIN mark, add enough oil to raise the level within the MIN-MAX range.
* Oil levels above the MAX mark may cause engine damage. Some oil must be removed from the engine by a service technician.
7. Put the indicator back in and ensure it is fully seated.
Adding engine oil
1. Check the engine oil. For instructions, refer to Checking the engine oil in this chapter.
2. If the engine oil level is not within the normal range, add only certified engine oil of the recommended viscosity. Remove the engine oil filler cap and use a funnel to pour the engine oil into the opening.
3. Recheck the engine oil level. Make sure the oil level is not above the MAX mark on the engine oil level indicator (dipstick).
4. Install the indicator and ensure it is fully seated.
5. Fully install the engine oil filler cap by turning the filler cap clockwise until three clicks can be heard.
To avoid possible oil loss, DO NOT operate the vehicle with the engine oil level indicator and/or the engine oil filler cap removed.
Just my .02, but I would do as the GOOD BOOK says, it's the only thing that can make you or break you if something were to happen to the engine. If it were inspected after taken in for warranty work (leaking gaskets) and they found 7 quarts instead of 6, guess who's paying for that bill.....
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Y2K,OxWht,XLT,SC,SB,4X4,ORP,5.4L,4R70W,3.55LS
13 APR 00 Build
11 MAY 00 Pick Up
Mods will come.
To cphilip and Flatlander: The answer to your question about what six (US) quarts means in litres? Realistically? Six litres is the answer.
That's what I put into both my 4.2s. That brings the level to the mid-point or so. I don't top up.
If you're interested, I've gone 34,000 km in my '00 -- about 22,000 miles. I've done seven oil and filter changes on her in my driveway -- I just checked my records. What I put in never varies.
Hey, her 1st birthday was on Saturday!
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Black 2000 SC short-box XLT. 4.2V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 limited-slip. CD, remote entry, factory side steps, FORD box liner.
My third F-series: '73 F-100 Custom 240-cube 3-speed, '98 F-150 XL-SC 4.2 5-speed, and '00 F-150 XLT-SC 4.2 5-speed. GREAT trucks!
[This message has been edited by Shifter (edited 10-04-2000).]
That's what I put into both my 4.2s. That brings the level to the mid-point or so. I don't top up.
If you're interested, I've gone 34,000 km in my '00 -- about 22,000 miles. I've done seven oil and filter changes on her in my driveway -- I just checked my records. What I put in never varies.
Hey, her 1st birthday was on Saturday!
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Black 2000 SC short-box XLT. 4.2V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 limited-slip. CD, remote entry, factory side steps, FORD box liner.
My third F-series: '73 F-100 Custom 240-cube 3-speed, '98 F-150 XL-SC 4.2 5-speed, and '00 F-150 XLT-SC 4.2 5-speed. GREAT trucks!
[This message has been edited by Shifter (edited 10-04-2000).]
ksdoxey -------Hey that Ford dealer is incorrect! The Dealer I work for always uses 6 quarts> AND $30 dollars is too high. This topic has be gone over before and it was decided that 6 is safe and 7 will cause foaming (which is not good)
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97 F-150 4.6 auto, 4x2, 3.55 LS, WMS Velocity tube, Dynomax Super Turbo exhaust with Echo tube.
Oh yeah, it's Oxford White with crome wheels, Legacy shell & custom grill!
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97 F-150 4.6 auto, 4x2, 3.55 LS, WMS Velocity tube, Dynomax Super Turbo exhaust with Echo tube.
Oh yeah, it's Oxford White with crome wheels, Legacy shell & custom grill!
Yeah... six quarts is six quarts. Period. If it shows low on the stick, it could be a short stick or long dipstick tube, but there's six quarts in there. I got into an agrument with a guy at the instant oil change place (I was turning in my lease the next week) over the same issue... I made him fill 6 1-quart bottles because he told me it takes 7 quarts. It left it right in the middle of the cross-hatched area. He said that the round wire-like dipsticks on the 4.6 read low, and it takes 7 quarts. Turns out they changed the dipstick later in the model year (97) to fix that problem. But the bottom line is 6 quarts is 6 quarts regardless of where it reads on the dipstick.
-Joe-
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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
Deposit on '00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Sunroof, currently missing the fuel filler door, but they're working on that..
-Joe-
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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
Deposit on '00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Sunroof, currently missing the fuel filler door, but they're working on that..
I have had my 97 serviced at the dealer since new, and they have always put in 7 qts. (or at least billed me for 7). I'm going to start changing my own now... am moving into a house with a 2 car garage... and one of the slips has AN OIL CHANGING PIT!!!
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97 Lariat S/C Styleside; Superchip; K&N FIPK; 5.4; 3.55LS; trailer towing pkg; every option; Michelin XLT M/S 265/70/16;Pampering for LONG term.
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97 Lariat S/C Styleside; Superchip; K&N FIPK; 5.4; 3.55LS; trailer towing pkg; every option; Michelin XLT M/S 265/70/16;Pampering for LONG term.


