Stalling at idle in drive?
Just recently my truck has stalled a few times when coming to a stop. It looks like the RPM's drop really low just before completely stopping, and sometimes causes the truck to stall. In the old days I would have thought this was a vacume problem... but I am clueless these days. Any ideas?
------------------
1997 F-150
Ext Cab
4x4 w/offroad pkg
towing pkg
4.6L with Auto Trans
Superchip & Velocity Tube
------------------
1997 F-150
Ext Cab
4x4 w/offroad pkg
towing pkg
4.6L with Auto Trans
Superchip & Velocity Tube
My 98 F-150 with a 5.4L completely died at idle after I stopped for a railroad crossing on a slight incline. There was no prior indication of trouble. It cranked right back up and I drove it a couple thousand miles more before trade-in. I think I was around 16,000 miles when this happened. No idea what caused it...plenty of fuel...weird.
Have you changed the fuel filter in your 97?
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil and filter, Build date 7/00
[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 09-05-2000).]
Have you changed the fuel filter in your 97?
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil and filter, Build date 7/00
[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 09-05-2000).]
Re: stalling when coming to a stop
Mine (2000XLT 4.6L 12K miles) started doing the same thing a couple of months ago.
It happens when slowing to a stop at a sign or make a LH turn, when the engine is going down to idle from a higher speed. Normally when stopping the rpm dips down to around 500 rpm and bounces back to 650, where it usually idles. When it decides to die, it dies at about the time the tach hits bottom (before bouncing back up).
Every time so far it has happened, I have had the A/C on, and the truck has been driven at least 20 miles (warmed up good).
It happens about once a week. I just know it will be a CND at the dealer
I have had the fuel filter changed, gone through 3 or 4 tankfuls of different brand gas, bought in different cities, gone up to 89 octane for a couple of tanks. Nothing seems to help.
I have not experienced any rough idle or other problems whatsoever. Just "No Idle"
There are several "rough idle" fixes on the board, but none of them have worked, including wire routing, MAF cleaning, holding mouth right, etc. I have not tried disconnecting the battery, as I can not see how dying is a learned behavior, but I may try that soon.
I am resigned to bring it to the dealer at the next service interval. My most likely remaining suspect is the Idle Air Control, which would be a warranty item, IF they can get it to duplicate or show a code.
Mine (2000XLT 4.6L 12K miles) started doing the same thing a couple of months ago.
It happens when slowing to a stop at a sign or make a LH turn, when the engine is going down to idle from a higher speed. Normally when stopping the rpm dips down to around 500 rpm and bounces back to 650, where it usually idles. When it decides to die, it dies at about the time the tach hits bottom (before bouncing back up).
Every time so far it has happened, I have had the A/C on, and the truck has been driven at least 20 miles (warmed up good).
It happens about once a week. I just know it will be a CND at the dealer

I have had the fuel filter changed, gone through 3 or 4 tankfuls of different brand gas, bought in different cities, gone up to 89 octane for a couple of tanks. Nothing seems to help.
I have not experienced any rough idle or other problems whatsoever. Just "No Idle"

There are several "rough idle" fixes on the board, but none of them have worked, including wire routing, MAF cleaning, holding mouth right, etc. I have not tried disconnecting the battery, as I can not see how dying is a learned behavior, but I may try that soon.
I am resigned to bring it to the dealer at the next service interval. My most likely remaining suspect is the Idle Air Control, which would be a warranty item, IF they can get it to duplicate or show a code.
Y2K,
If the dealer insists it's bad gas, tell them to argue it out with the gas companies. You know, that's such a stupid argument for the dealer to make. If it were true, you'd see cars breaking down all over your area. Is there an unusual number of vehicles in your area that's got the same problems as you do? Bet you're the only one.
If the dealer insists it's bad gas, tell them to argue it out with the gas companies. You know, that's such a stupid argument for the dealer to make. If it were true, you'd see cars breaking down all over your area. Is there an unusual number of vehicles in your area that's got the same problems as you do? Bet you're the only one.
I had the same problem, but with my 4.2 V6. Kept stalling. Almost got into quite a few accidents. Ford could not fix it. Replaced almost every sensor in the engine bay, no fix. Kept stalling. I finally got into an accident and was T-boned because of the stall. It was snowing out and I had been through this intersection once already. Only this time the engine died, brakes were gone, steering was gone, and truck wouldn't restart. If both or even one would have
worked I could have stopped ,steered out of it, or restarted my truck and gotten out of the intersection. Instead I could do none of these and I was hit. $3000 damage. As soon as I got it out of the body shop I went to a local Ford dealership and traded it in. Of course I was upside down and was going to have to take a bigger payment so I figured I would get into the truck I wanted. My insurance company had an "expert"(LOL) look at it and he said that it was because of my after market alarm or the K&N filter. Of course it is a law that they can not base anything on this ***-u-me-tion without proving that it was those things that caused it. Without checking into it they said they would not go after Ford. I did my calling and proved that it wasn't the alarm and replaced the K&N with the factory paper and proved it wasn't because of that either. In fact it started stalling even more with the factory filter in.
The moral of the story? Don't let them push you around and get it fixed. If you can afford it, tell them to take it until they fix it.
------------------
Red '97 F-150 SC 4x4 off-road, 16" rims instead of factory 17"'s(borrowed from old '97 reg cab), BFG 265/75 16 all terrain T/A, K&N filter with modified air box, Flowmaster 40 with duals out back, Expedition center console, 3" rear seat lift, after market stereo seen at HTTP://members.sounddomain.com/red97,
worked I could have stopped ,steered out of it, or restarted my truck and gotten out of the intersection. Instead I could do none of these and I was hit. $3000 damage. As soon as I got it out of the body shop I went to a local Ford dealership and traded it in. Of course I was upside down and was going to have to take a bigger payment so I figured I would get into the truck I wanted. My insurance company had an "expert"(LOL) look at it and he said that it was because of my after market alarm or the K&N filter. Of course it is a law that they can not base anything on this ***-u-me-tion without proving that it was those things that caused it. Without checking into it they said they would not go after Ford. I did my calling and proved that it wasn't the alarm and replaced the K&N with the factory paper and proved it wasn't because of that either. In fact it started stalling even more with the factory filter in.
The moral of the story? Don't let them push you around and get it fixed. If you can afford it, tell them to take it until they fix it.
------------------
Red '97 F-150 SC 4x4 off-road, 16" rims instead of factory 17"'s(borrowed from old '97 reg cab), BFG 265/75 16 all terrain T/A, K&N filter with modified air box, Flowmaster 40 with duals out back, Expedition center console, 3" rear seat lift, after market stereo seen at HTTP://members.sounddomain.com/red97,
WOW!
I was not to concerned about it until I read all of your posts. It has only happened twice adn I figured it was just something minor. I always use minimum 92 gas and always brand names, so I doubt it could be that. I guess I will bring it up at my next service interval. I will have to pay more attnention to the circumstances at which it happens.
Thanks
------------------
1997 F-150
Ext Cab
Short Bed
4x4 OR
Towing pkg
4.6L with Auto Trans
Superchip & Velocity Tube
I was not to concerned about it until I read all of your posts. It has only happened twice adn I figured it was just something minor. I always use minimum 92 gas and always brand names, so I doubt it could be that. I guess I will bring it up at my next service interval. I will have to pay more attnention to the circumstances at which it happens.
Thanks
------------------
1997 F-150
Ext Cab
Short Bed
4x4 OR
Towing pkg
4.6L with Auto Trans
Superchip & Velocity Tube
Oh my... Finally someone who is feeling my pain with this 4.6 liter lemon. First let me explain the problems that I've been fighting on mine.
Almost from day one I've had minor hesitation and pinging when taking off from a dead stop under heavy throttle. The detonation has become easier and easier to cause using moderate throttle as time has passed. Finally I brought it to the dealer who couldn't find anything at the time. One day while coming to a stop the RPM's drop to the point of amost stalling, then surged to over 1k before settling back to a normal idle. So I took it in and was told that it was the idle air bypass valve which they said they would have to order and to come back next week.
Suring the course of that week the Check Engine light came on, so I took it back in, they replaced the idle air bypass valve, fuel pump and fuel regulator and sent me on my merry way. About 2 weeks later the Check Engine light was back on.. After being made to wait 2 weeks to take it in, they again replaced the fuel pump and regulator.
Almost immediatly after getting it back, the surging and stalling began again, and within a week the check engine light was back on. This time they claimed it was a crimped vacuum line which they fixed. And once again I drove away hoping the problem would be fixed.
And again, within a week the surging and stalling were back, but no Check Engine light at the time. A few days after that the Check Engine light came on. I called for a service appointment and within the 2 days I had to wait, it got worse. Started running like one cylinder wasn't getting fuel.
When they finally looked at it, they told me that once again the fuel pump and regulator were shot, and that all of the injectors were damaged. They said that it was a result of me purchasing bad gas and that if the problem happened again I would be held responsible for the repairs. Talk about a f*cking cop-out, I had words with the guy in servcice, the sales manager, and even the owner of the dealership, all of whom told me the same thing. Even the robot at Ford was of little help, and nobody would give me any zone manager or some higher management person I could speak to.
At this point I'm fustrated to all hell, they've had the truck for 6 days now, and it's now in for it's 5th service visit. And they still haven't addressed the fact that it will occassionally knock and blow smoke when I start it. I'm thinking that if they don't get it right this time, it's going to time to start looking into the lemon laws.
As far as my getting bad fuel, I go to Mobil, Sunoco, and Hess, all major names with tank farms less that 10 miles away. As far as the injector damage, I wouldn't be surprised if they introduced foreign contamanents one of the times they dropped the tank.
Anyhow csacom, you might have then look at the fuel pump and regulator. The initial reason that I was told that the pumps were failing is because the fuel return valves were freezing shut. Seems to me that they've got a bad batch or something. Could be vaccuum, but if you've in the same boat with that 4.6L(emon) then might want to look at fuel issues.
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, Reg Cab/Long Box, Styleside, Oxford White, Dark Graphite Int., 4x4, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Off-Road pkg (Skid Plates, Cab Steps, Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers, LT265/70R17SL), Class III Towing pkg with Heavy Duty Cooling pkg, 4 wheel disk ABS, Overhead Console, Factory In-Dash CD, Remote Keyless Entry, and Sliding Rear Window, Cabin Air Filtration, Ventvisors, Ford Bug Deflector, Ford Bedliner.
Currently Forsale: K&N FIPK, Superchip Code: XJB1
2000 Polaris Sportsman 500, Camo Green, 4x4, 499cc 4-stroke, independent suspension, shaft drive, 4 wheel disc brakes, etc.
Almost from day one I've had minor hesitation and pinging when taking off from a dead stop under heavy throttle. The detonation has become easier and easier to cause using moderate throttle as time has passed. Finally I brought it to the dealer who couldn't find anything at the time. One day while coming to a stop the RPM's drop to the point of amost stalling, then surged to over 1k before settling back to a normal idle. So I took it in and was told that it was the idle air bypass valve which they said they would have to order and to come back next week.
Suring the course of that week the Check Engine light came on, so I took it back in, they replaced the idle air bypass valve, fuel pump and fuel regulator and sent me on my merry way. About 2 weeks later the Check Engine light was back on.. After being made to wait 2 weeks to take it in, they again replaced the fuel pump and regulator.
Almost immediatly after getting it back, the surging and stalling began again, and within a week the check engine light was back on. This time they claimed it was a crimped vacuum line which they fixed. And once again I drove away hoping the problem would be fixed.
And again, within a week the surging and stalling were back, but no Check Engine light at the time. A few days after that the Check Engine light came on. I called for a service appointment and within the 2 days I had to wait, it got worse. Started running like one cylinder wasn't getting fuel.
When they finally looked at it, they told me that once again the fuel pump and regulator were shot, and that all of the injectors were damaged. They said that it was a result of me purchasing bad gas and that if the problem happened again I would be held responsible for the repairs. Talk about a f*cking cop-out, I had words with the guy in servcice, the sales manager, and even the owner of the dealership, all of whom told me the same thing. Even the robot at Ford was of little help, and nobody would give me any zone manager or some higher management person I could speak to.
At this point I'm fustrated to all hell, they've had the truck for 6 days now, and it's now in for it's 5th service visit. And they still haven't addressed the fact that it will occassionally knock and blow smoke when I start it. I'm thinking that if they don't get it right this time, it's going to time to start looking into the lemon laws.
As far as my getting bad fuel, I go to Mobil, Sunoco, and Hess, all major names with tank farms less that 10 miles away. As far as the injector damage, I wouldn't be surprised if they introduced foreign contamanents one of the times they dropped the tank.
Anyhow csacom, you might have then look at the fuel pump and regulator. The initial reason that I was told that the pumps were failing is because the fuel return valves were freezing shut. Seems to me that they've got a bad batch or something. Could be vaccuum, but if you've in the same boat with that 4.6L(emon) then might want to look at fuel issues.
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, Reg Cab/Long Box, Styleside, Oxford White, Dark Graphite Int., 4x4, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Off-Road pkg (Skid Plates, Cab Steps, Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers, LT265/70R17SL), Class III Towing pkg with Heavy Duty Cooling pkg, 4 wheel disk ABS, Overhead Console, Factory In-Dash CD, Remote Keyless Entry, and Sliding Rear Window, Cabin Air Filtration, Ventvisors, Ford Bug Deflector, Ford Bedliner.
Currently Forsale: K&N FIPK, Superchip Code: XJB1
2000 Polaris Sportsman 500, Camo Green, 4x4, 499cc 4-stroke, independent suspension, shaft drive, 4 wheel disc brakes, etc.
Trending Topics
Well all I can say is I must be lucky as my Y2K 4.6 is running fine and has been since day one and has a little over 16,200 miles on it and I only made one trip back to the dealership and that was for my free oil change hasn't been back since.
------------------
2000 F150 XLT Reg. cab
4.6 Triton Engine
4x2 3.55 rear end gear
sliding rear window
automatic keyless entry
white styleside short box
------------------
2000 F150 XLT Reg. cab
4.6 Triton Engine
4x2 3.55 rear end gear
sliding rear window
automatic keyless entry
white styleside short box
UPDATE: I just got off the phone with the service manager who told me that after replacing the injectors, fuel filter, pump and regulator, then flushing the system the problem came back during the final test drive.
He told me that they contacted a Ford engineer who told me that on some rare occassions they've noticed deterioration of the gas tank which has been known to cause contamination of the fuel system. So now it's going to be several more days while they rebuild the entire fuel system. They're ordering a new tank, fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel rail, injectors, pump, regulator, etc. The earliest I will see it is next Tuesday, so I'll have to sit tight and see how it goes.
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, Reg Cab/Long Box, Styleside, Oxford White, Dark Graphite Int., 4x4, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Off-Road pkg (Skid Plates, Cab Steps, Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers, LT265/70R17SL), Class III Towing pkg with Heavy Duty Cooling pkg, 4 wheel disk ABS, Overhead Console, Factory In-Dash CD, Remote Keyless Entry, and Sliding Rear Window, Cabin Air Filtration, Ventvisors, Ford Bug Deflector, Ford Bedliner.
Currently Forsale: K&N FIPK, Superchip Code: XJB1
2000 Polaris Sportsman 500, Camo Green, 4x4, 499cc 4-stroke, independent suspension, shaft drive, 4 wheel disc brakes, etc.
He told me that they contacted a Ford engineer who told me that on some rare occassions they've noticed deterioration of the gas tank which has been known to cause contamination of the fuel system. So now it's going to be several more days while they rebuild the entire fuel system. They're ordering a new tank, fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel rail, injectors, pump, regulator, etc. The earliest I will see it is next Tuesday, so I'll have to sit tight and see how it goes.
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, Reg Cab/Long Box, Styleside, Oxford White, Dark Graphite Int., 4x4, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Off-Road pkg (Skid Plates, Cab Steps, Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers, LT265/70R17SL), Class III Towing pkg with Heavy Duty Cooling pkg, 4 wheel disk ABS, Overhead Console, Factory In-Dash CD, Remote Keyless Entry, and Sliding Rear Window, Cabin Air Filtration, Ventvisors, Ford Bug Deflector, Ford Bedliner.
Currently Forsale: K&N FIPK, Superchip Code: XJB1
2000 Polaris Sportsman 500, Camo Green, 4x4, 499cc 4-stroke, independent suspension, shaft drive, 4 wheel disc brakes, etc.
back to the guy's original post about his truck stalling at stop signs, sounds like bad fuel filter, crapola in the gas (water or other pollutants), or fuel injection system problem. possibly torque converter problem too.


