Morning Guys/Gals
I want to change my Tranny fluid over to
Mobile1 ATF. How do I know when I bring it
to a shop, that there replacing ALL of the Fluid?
T-converter and Tranny...Etc...
I know that the last time I had the tranny fluid
done with normal Mercon that they put 13 qts
back in...That was at 15,000 miles

1998 F150 Reg Cab 4x4 4.6l ORP SILVER
41,000 miles

 

13 quarts is pretty close to the capacity of the transmission, so if they really put that much in you know they did a complete flush. If they don't drain the torque converter they won't get more that 4 or 5 quarts out of it.

-Jon

 

I would only add to that the possibility of them using an extra quart or two to get a flush out effect but I'm not sure.

 

I concur with the extra quart or 2. You want to make sure it is 100% to get the full benifits.

Did you know that you can do it yourself??

I have the directions if you are interested.

 

I am interested.....can I drain the torque converter myself on my 2001 Screw?????

The older Ford truck had a drain plug on the converter, but I was told the new ones do not??? Anyone know for sure???

 

MSPARKS
I'm interested in the procedures...
This includes the T-converter also??
Thank you!!!

 

Here are the procedures that I have. Hope this helps I got it from the amsoil site, if you want these instructions in PDF you can click here and print it out:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/EASY%20STE...F%20FLUID2.pdf

Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up the car so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Drain the fluid by loosening the pan. Select the correct Hastings filter replacement based on pan shape and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner.
3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan’s gasket surface isn’t bent or distorted.
4. Remove the old filter. Most transmission filters are held in place with a bolt or two, but some are held by a clip. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.
5. Install a new filter. Use the clips or bolts from the old filter. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place. If the filter has a long intake neck, gently push the neck into place without unseating the O-Ring.
6. Clean the pan thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.
9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual or "AMSOIL Product Selection Guide,” using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.
10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.
11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.
Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer or AMSOIL. Have this amount readily available.

Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle.

Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.

Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.

Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids has now been changed.

12. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.

 

I'm sorry if I step on you, msparks, but those instructions are to generic to be much help to someone who hasn't done this before.

With a 4x4, you really don't even need ramps or jackstands to change the transmission fluid. ***unless you can't see your own feet***

Have enough fluid and a Motorcraft filter to get the job done and drive the truck long enough to heat up the transmssion fluid.

If you look to the front of the tranny, you'll see a black, circular plug. Pull it out with your fingers and you'll see the torque converter. You need to line up the torque converter drain plug with the access hole at the bottom by rotating the crankshaft clockwise with a breaker bar. If you havn't used one before, it's just a long socket wrench that gives extra leverage. Stop when the drainbolt is visible through the access hole.

You can drain the torque converter now or after you drain the transmission but the torque converter does take about a half hour to drain.

When you remove the transmission pan, just loosen all 14 bolts and then begin removing the bolts on one side so that part of the pan drops and fluid flows out. When most of the fluid is out, you can remove the remaining bolts and pull the pan off but be careful because there is enough fluid remaining in the bottom of the pan to spill over.

You don't have to touch anything inside the transmission itself except the filter. This filter simply pops off when you pull down on it.

The transmission pan gasket is reusable so don't discard it. You'll also see a round collection of crud in one corner of the pan. That's
the magnet. Pull it out a clean everything off. Then wipe the pan clean a replace the magnet.

Install the new Motorcraft filter and replace the pan. When you reinstall the pan with the original gasket, hand tighten all of the screws and when you torque the screws down, don't overtighten them or the gasket will leak.

After this you simply need to fill the transmission and torque converter with fluid.

***If you install and drain bolt on the bottom of the transmission pan while it's off, the next fluid change will be very easy and clean***

Remember that transmssion fluid will stain your driveway too.

 

just a note to others who read this. Dont stash all the tranny fluid down the hatch at one time. I did 5 qts at a time running the truck for about 30 seconds in between additions. Also run through the gears once and take it back and recheck the level. Other thing, if you find a funny little ball with a stick on one side and a rubber sealer, throw it away. Thats from the factory and will be there if its the first time youve changed your fluid.

Oh i just read the first instructions. I just tossed tranny fluid down the dipstick hole, worked fine for me. My torque converter has a plug hole tho so it was a piece of cake.

 

Just read msparks post on do it your self flushes. Sounds interesting and almost a bit too easy, but then again, why do we always have to make things complicated?

I think this will definately help the people with the newer trucks that don't have a plug on the torque converter.

 

I think this issue is going to come up about the best way to do it because evidently the '02's and up DO NOT have a drain plug in the converter which sucks. Personally, I would think that trying to change out the fluid in the converter with the engine running method is not the best way to do it. Seems like new fluid would mix with old and you don't really get all of it out. No flames intended because I definately don't have a better method and guess if you don't have a drain plug, there's nothing else you can do. Guess you could waiste a couple extra quarts and run it through there just to make sure you get most of it.

If you go to one of these shops that have the flushing equipment, can you take your own fluid and tell them to use that?? I definately wanted to add Amsoil.

***Oh yea, one more question...With the engine running and fluid being pumped out of the cooler return line, how fast is it going to be pumping fluid out??? Do you really have to be on your toes or is it slow enough it's controllable as far as adding fluid at the same time??

 

I just got mine changed a few days ago and it was $100 since I have to have 14 quarts and Decron V. That kind of sucked!!!!

 

I agree with Aj except on one point . You should clean the pan with solvent and blow it off with compressed air. Rag fibers have a tendency to get past the filters end up in places that cause future problems.

My father is an Auto-Trans guy and would almost beat me whenever I tried that working with him.

 

Actually thats really not all that bad of a price. 14 qts for Mercon ran me about 50-60 bucks plus the filter was an additional 20. So really they charged you about 30 bucks for labor and thats excellent.

 

With the engine running, do you just slowly pour in one quart at a time in the dipstick hole and try to pour it in at the same rate it's getting pumped out the line???