The use of a quality by pass filter allows the extension of oil change intervals due to the oil being kept ultra clean. I would suggest that it is possible to maintain proper additive levels by periodic oil replenishment. some of the synthetic oils have higher additive levels and therefore it takes longer to deplete them.

The problem is how does one know which oil is the proper one to use for extended drain intervals. Even betweenn Mobil one grades there is quite a difference in additive level.

I would suggest regular oil testing is necessary to maintain safe performance of the oil. this is as expensive as regular oil changes. I do this regularly on aircraft engines for metal content.


Chris

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98 SC 4.6L stepside, Gibson headers, Gibson single exhaust, superchip, Intake mods, Piaa's, high end audio stuff.

 

In my previous post I mentioned Oil Analysis.
This is what you use to determine weather the additives are depleted or not. Acids are not really a problem with gassers but it is something you have to watch with Diesels.
Hence why SJ oil is typically around 5-7 TBN,
and Our Diesel oils are 11-12 TBN
TBN is the oils ability to nuetralize acid.

One note the 25,000 mile interval is a standard. Which Amsoil has put in place and Analysis is not needed. If you want you can do an analysis at the 25,000 mile mark and decided to extend even farther.

Case in point someone took the 7500 mile oil and did analysis to see how long that oil would go. They made it to 30,000 miles and the oil was still serviceable. So even the 7500 stuff has plenty of additives in it to go the distance.

Warranty, well I guess if you have a few analysis to back you up and if your engine does go to pot. Ford just cannot deny you a warrenty claim without no reason. If they do an analysis and come to find out the oil is doing it's job then they must honor their warranty. Remember the warranty is for Materials and workmanship. Not based on just fixing your truck because its broke.

 

I've been using Amsoil for more than 10 years and typically change my oil every 5000 miles, which is overkill, but an oil change isn't that much more expensive than a tank of gas. Let's face it, if you're really concerned about cost why would you buy a 14mpg vehicle. You'd buy a Focus or God forbid, a toy import truck.
msparks... I have an Amsoil bypass filter kit (the old cast aluminum manifold type not the new billet one) but have had a hard time finding a location for it. Any suggestions? Do you have one installed?
Thanks in advance.

 

I have it on both my trucks. I welded up a bracket and it is under the drivers seat side bolted onto the frame rail. The 8 ft. of hose that comes with the kit is more than enough. The bottom of the filter is even with the bottom of the frame rail. Bill

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Bill

 

I don't have one on my truck, I just do the 1 year thing.

I have been thinking about it, but am wondering how. I have the Ford Factory Remote filter that is located behind the front bumper. Which I think is a great location. The problem I have is connecting the by-pass. I am just thinking that I can disconnect the full flow and put a dual remote on. But am not sure that the connections would work, might have to rig it up myself.

I am still toying with the Idea. I might put the by-pass on next year. Don't know for sure. Though I have a friend that has a dual by-pass on his toyota pick-up and he has it right in the engine compartment mounted on a welded bracket like "b727capt" mentioned.

If you want some photos of the proceedure on a F250 let me know I will get you some photos


Also That new duel by-pass is so easy to put on cause it hooks right where the filter goes with a special adapter really easy. just have to find a place to mount it. And with a truck its very easy. Try it in a VW Jetta TDI Here are some pics of that: http://tdiforums.abahn.bc.ca/NonCGI/...ML/001119.html


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Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

Mssparks,

I disagree with you. Ford can deny your warranty claim for exceeding the mileage limit on oil changes. They have done this before. Ford says 3,000/5,000 miles than they mean 3,000/5,000 miles. With the "Slap Issue" the warranty is important to me and others on the list I am sure.

I read this Amsoil warranty that is always praised. It has many issues that need to be discussed.

1.) When your vehicle is towed to your local Ford dealer for a oil related failure and then you can not prove that you have changed your oil by the specified 3,000/5,000 mile time frame, then who will be paying the money UPFRONT to tear down your engine to see what part failed ?? This is like the issue of a third party extended warranty waiting to OK the repairs. Your dealer is not going to like your truck setting around waiting for Amsoil to make a decision to pay or not.

2.) How many people on the this list can not do with out their vehicle while engine is tore down waiting for Amsoil's decision.. Amsoil states that they will not be liable for transportation while your vehicle is down. This means car rental time. Figure this at $ 20+ per day. This could drag on for a long time. Even at 5 days, $ 100 pays for a lot of oil changes.

3.) All parts or samples will be submitted freight pre-paid, accompanied by a fee of $ 15.00 for inspection. I am sure that freight is not cheap. What is the time frame that this process will take?

4.) They want you to keep a sample of the product to submit to an independent lab in event of a dispute. Sounds to me that they might argue the decision also. The "Oil contamination" could be a loop hole for Amsoil to get off the hook for paying for the repair.

How many claims has Amsoil paid to date?

How many where denied?

What is the normal time to get everything completed ?


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99 EB Expy 4x4, 5.4 w/K&N
98 E-150 Conversion Van




[This message has been edited by FordBigFoot (edited 07-07-2000).]

 

b727capt, I'm hoping to get my bypass filter system a bit closer to the engine, but that's still a good idea...thanks. Have you noticed a drop in oil pressure in either of your vehicles? Also, how many quarts of oil are you using? I'd guess that you're using a BE-90 filter as opposed to BE-110 if the filter is level with the bottom of the frame.
msparks, I used to use the bypass system on a 94 SR5 V6 (piece of junk) and had it in a similar place to your remote filter. I did notice a slight drop in oil pressure but filtering the oil to 1 micron every 25 miles (25-30 microns for a full-flow filter) is excellent. Amsoil recommends keeping the hoses to the bypass kit as short as possible. This must be due to friction in the hoses which means that the oil pump would have to work harder.
One last thing, do you happen to know why Ford reverted to attaching the oil filter directly to the block on the '00 F-150?

 

All that I can figure about ford moving the filter back, it that when someone has a slight fender bender they think the truck is ok and drive off not realizing the filter could be crushed or damaged, the result a dead engine.

Yes the best Idea is to keep the hoses as short as possible to reduce the load on your oil pump.



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Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

MSparks:

Can you answer any of the important questions FordBigFoot raises? I am not anti-amsoil and may one day switch to an extended oil but he raises some important questions that get lost when people talk about extended drain oils. It would be interesting to learn how many claims they have paid and how many they have received. If you don't know it would be great if you could find out. I'm not trying to "throw you on the coals", I'm just looking for information.

 

I have heard of one guy in Las Cruces that got a Power Stroke engine replaced. I don't know him personally, but just heard from a 3rd party.

I don't know all of Amsoil's stats. I really don't know if they would put that stuff out. Then next time I talk to someone at the company I will try to ask.

I can bet though that very few folks lose an engine on the fault of the oil. I would say 99% is for some other reason, usually faulty parts.

I cannot force people to belive in Amsoil's warranty or that you can go 25,000 miles. If you are worried about your warrenty. I would suggest that(my personal opinion) you only do what the manual states, 5,000 miles. Also I would not put any other engine mods on your engine keep it stock until the warrenty is up.

I will try to find out more though for those who want to know.

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Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

Geez, the Lube Threads are my favorite reading -- been out camping with the niece at Yogi's for a few, and am just getting back to the humor-mill.

Thanks to Duckplucker, I've decided that changing oil is way too expensive -- so I'm never going to change it again. I'll just add some when the lifter clatter gets too obnoxious. Think of all the money I'll "save".

Speaking of Elvis or Bigfoot -- (we were, weren't we?) -- there is nothing in the universe slipperier than an oil company in avoiding any responsibility for any 'lubricant-related-engine-damage'.

It will never happen. Period.

Now, for those who just crawled out from under the Ethics-Rock, here's a tip:

Regardless of what problem your engine developes, before you allow it to be dragged into the dealership on a flat-bed (hooks are out, remember?) -- merely stop by your local Ford dealer and purchase some of Ford's Best oil (it is an excellent re-brand synthetic from a very good competitor to MS) -- and then change the oil of your engine.

Duhhh

There are trace elements in certain engine oils which can (emphasis on the uncertain: can -- as opposed to the scientific 'Will') indicate the use of a different oil -- but then so what?!? Show me a list of "Prohibited Lubricants" (aka the 'Black-List') -- and I'll show you Bigfoot!

Just so that I can join in with the anonymous & anecdotal testimonial from the non-experts -- consider this:

While Synthetic lube comes as factory fill in your gearboxes (xfer and rear-axle) -- you are not prohibited from using dino-oil in its place -- you are merely required to increase the change interval (I can almost hear you thumbing thru the owner's manual to prove me wrong -- if you want a really neat way to electronically search thru the Y2K manual -- snag it from an earlier post of mine somewhere -- it's a pdf).

As for whether synthetics are worth the bother -- consider that when used in the "Big Rigs'" transmissions -- the #1 manual transmission producer in North America has put it's money where it's mouth is by providing up to 750,000 mile parts and labor warranty on certain transmissions (we're talking the 80,000# on-highway ones -- not wimpy ones) -- with 500,000 mile lubricant change intervals.

Do I believe in synthetics -- you bet!

Best thing for gearboxes.

(Engines are another thing -- and open for much debate -- even amongst true experts -- since a gearbox is never subjected to the contaminants introduced by the combustion process and thermal cycles of heat-engines.)

My sister's new BMW 313 has an on-board alghorythm that tells her when to change the engine oil -- as of today, it's still on it's first slug of oil -- at 14,000 miles -- and keeps informing her to wait for another 1,400 miles. Since BMW covers it bumper to bumper -- and she's likely to sell it long before 400,000 miles <grin> -- she's following the instructions (not to change yet).

I've been out for 4 days, and have much to catch up on -- so this is all for now.

Has anyone tried a slug of Mobil 1 just to confirm that 1/2 litre is non-toxic to Humans?




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Y2K™

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

Hmmm,

Some interesting notices posted here, and msparks is taking hits again I see....

At least most of us agree that synthetics are better than petroleum... that's a huge step over just a year ago.

However there is a point to be made in that like cphilip said, if you have a concern about the 'warranty police' then don't do anything that could even be _CONSIDERED_ out of your warranty for the period of time that you have a warranty. So for those that have chosen "supercharger-this", and "superchip-that" this discussion borders on the hypocritical as there already is a warranty issue if you've done anything to your truck other than wash it....

(Okay,now that I've kicked over the bee-hive... )

I always wonder how many engines our friends at Castrol, Valvoline, Havoline, Kendall, and yes Mobil have fried due to poor oil formulation, sludge build-up, exacerbated parts wear and the like???? Notice how we don't ever hear about that do we???

But when a product comes out that says "You don't have to do it the old way anymore..." automatically the discussion becomes focus on how much damage can be done... Isn't this wierd??

Ask anyone that services engines that have over 100K on them and see what he/she tells you about how much 'gunk' is in the engine valleys and such. Its amazing.

When Mobil comes out with their 1yr/25,000 mile oil I wonder if we'll have this discussion over again....

Amsoil makes a good product, it works good for extended drains, the warranty will protect you if the oil is to blame. However if there are small pittances that are a concern (and I'm as **** as they come so I know what you mean), then choose something else. There are plenty of other oils, synthetics for that matter, to choose from.

Y2K..... Hit the nail on the head. Look at the big rigs...what do they use??? On the vast majority, they use oil that is synthetic AND good for extended drains. You wouldn't want to change 5+ gallons of oil every 3K miles would you?? How many oil-related failures have there been in that industry??? Not too many, because the oils have been developed to handle the strain. We here in teh automotive world are at the bottom of the fluid ladder... Aviation first, Trucking/Transportation next, then us. And we all know what happens when the flow is downhill....

So if Amsoil's (and anybody else's for that matter) additive package can be used in the big rigs (one case of 400+ thousand miles) with no problem, what's to ask??

Just some thoughts...

Randy

Just my