Dynodan,

You wasted your time trying to get an improvement with the mod you made. Remove the baffle in the black plastic elbow and you should see a slight improvement. Neet, professional looking set up all the same.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

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00 F-150 XLT SC Flairside 4x4 4.6 w/5spd 3.55LSD
Warn XD9000i, skid plates, Draw tite class III,
Rancho RSX Reflex shocks,
Borla Cat Back
Modified Air Cleaner Outlet Tube
and air box, K&N air filter,
Superchips

 

I did the intake mods and the exhaust
I made 228.9 Hp and 306.5 Tq this is with a 5.4 with 20,000 miles if that helps.

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Mods:K&N Intake,
3"Flowmaster,
Transgo Shift Reprogrammer
Dyno:228.9HP, 306.5TQ
4R100 TRANS
9.5" Converter 2500 Stall
Micheline 275 75 R16
9 3/4" Rear end W/355




[This message has been edited by stewdog (edited 06-16-2000).]

 

DynoDan: I can't believe your truck only has 690 miles on it and has already seen 5,000 rpm!

 

JMC, I think I'll fab up a tube from the TB to the MAF meter. I don't want to hack up the baffle section, thanks for the tip though.

Stewdog, did you just replace the muffler or did you do a complete cat-back kit?

2000F150Fun, 5000 RPM isn't the worst thing this truck is going to see. I'll take it easy on her in any case, maybe 1500 miles and then a blower. Hell the Lightning's are turning 5500 rpm with boost and they seem to be doing OK. I subjected a stock long block 94 Lightning to 14#'s of intercooled boost and it actually "lifted" the heads! Man those "torque to yield" head bolts suck.

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT Styleside
5.4,4x4,Reg.Cab, 120" WB, White, Sport Pkg., Bell Tech lowering kit, Gen II Lightning Wheels, B'stone 285 60 18 tires

198 rwhp, 266 trq (Bone Stock)

dwh@dynojet.com

 

Dynodan, could you explain how you did your air box mod.
I just removed my silencer from the elbow.
Plenty of patience. On the 5.4 you have to remove the flexible sleve and cut a 1/8-1/4" off the large end of the elbow. It seem that when the elbow was made the silencer was "made" into the large opening as well, then pop, out it came.

Your set up looks smooth.

 

Dynodan, could you explain how you did your air box mod.
I just removed my silencer from the elbow.
Plenty of patience. On the 5.4 you have to remove the flexible sleve and cut a 1/8-1/4" off the large end of the elbow. It seem that when the elbow was made the silencer was "made" into the large opening as well, then pop, out it came.

Your set up looks smooth.
.
Oops double post, board won't let me delete one.
------------------
Dr.(wife says i'm spoiled) Jones.
5.4L(whatpowerawaitsthee)
SC4x4.
djones01@elp.rr.com


[This message has been edited by powerlifter405 (edited 06-16-2000).]

 

Powerlifter405, all I used was a PVC 4" to 3" reducer (I think), 3.5" of 3" PVC, and an adapter for the MAF meter. The adapter is the only thing you won't be able to find at the hardware store. I machined mine, but you could trace the flange and cut it out. You'd also have to weld a "ring" on the flange for the filter. I ran the MAF meter harness grommet into one of the holes where the grommet for the stock air box used to be (remove the air box grommet). After fitting everything, I used a K&N filter w/ a chrome top and threaded stud (available from K&N) and a chrome bracket. I painted the PVC w/ a rattle can and it came out pretty nice. Next step, mandrel bent 90 degree elbow and pipe to replace the "plastic baffle" section.

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT Styleside
5.4,4x4,Reg.Cab, 120" WB, White, Sport Pkg., Bell Tech lowering kit, Gen II Lightning Wheels, B'stone 285 60 18 tires

198 rwhp, 266 trq (Bone Stock)

dwh@dynojet.com

 

DynoDan: I know some dont have a problem with high revs on a new engine, but my truck wont see above 3k rpm until it has at least 1,000 rpm. I guess I am a sooky though. I baby the heck out of my trucks for the first 1-2k, then I introduce the rpms. I have just had good luck doing it that way.

 

OK, here is a link to my air box mod (@ bottom). I am using the stock meter, a K&N filter, and some PVC adapters. This is the only mod done so far with 690 miles on the ticker. What gives, I didn't gain any power. Do I need to give my truck more time, I dynoed it immediately after I did the mod. My Gen I Lightning responded to mods immediatley, what's up with this truck? Is the restriction the big plastic baffle the hooks to the TB? Next mod will be a muffler / or no muffler and just pipe. The dyno sessions are free, so I plan on posting what works and what doesn't. I hope this will help you guys see what's a waste of money and what isn't.

Name: DYNORUN.007 Bone Stock
Title:
Run Date and Time: 5/20/00 1:26:28 PM
Acceleration from 2000 to 5000RPM, interval = 250.00RPM
Absolute barometric pressure : 25.72 in.Hg.
Vapor pressure : 0.24 in.Hg.
Intake air temperature : 82.1 °F
Gear Ratio : 63.54 RPM/MPH
Correction Factor : 1.18 SAE
TIME RPM POWER TORQUE
0.00 2000 110.3 289.5
0.48 2250 119.4 278.6
0.97 2500 128.4 269.8
1.48 2750 136.9 261.4
2.00 3000 146.2 256.0
2.53 3250 157.6 254.7
3.06 3500 168.7 253.1
3.59 3750 183.6 257.1
4.12 4000 191.9 251.9
4.67 4250 193.5 239.1
5.26 4500 192.2 224.4
5.89 4750 186.7 206.4
6.58 5000 178.8 187.8
Column Max
193.5 289.5
Column Min
110.3 187.8
Column Average
161.1 248.4

Name: DYNORUN.011 Air Box Mod
Title:
Run Date and Time: 6/14/00 5:42:48 PM
Acceleration from 2000 to 5000RPM, interval = 250.00RPM
Absolute barometric pressure : 25.59 in.Hg.
Vapor pressure : 0.42 in.Hg.
Intake air temperature : 79.7 °F
Gear Ratio : 62.43 RPM/MPH
Correction Factor : 1.19 SAE
TIME RPM POWER TORQUE
0.00 2000 110.9 291.3
0.50 2250 120.6 281.5
1.01 2500 128.9 270.8
1.54 2750 137.6 262.7
2.08 3000 147.7 258.7
2.63 3250 160.0 258.5
3.17 3500 172.8 259.4
3.71 3750 187.1 262.0
4.27 4000 190.8 250.5
4.85 4250 193.4 239.0
5.46 4500 190.7 222.6
6.13 4750 185.6 205.3
6.86 5000 176.3 185.2
Column Max
193.4 291.3
Column Min
110.9 185.2
Column Average
161.7 249.8
http://www.zing.com/mypictures/inbox...&id=4289365052

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT Styleside
5.4,4x4,Reg.Cab, 120" WB, White, Sport Pkg., Bell Tech lowering kit, Gen II Lightning Wheels, B'stone 285 60 18 tires

198 rwhp, 266 trq (Bone Stock)

dwh@dynojet.com

 

I have an answer as to why you didn't see any improvements!

1.

Sure you gave it more CFM, but with HOTTER air!!! I did the exact mod you did, only mine looks stock! The "bottle-neck" is where the Air-Box draws FRESH air. Its about 2.5". I opened up the Air-Box to a 3" opening of FRESH COLD AIR coming from the fender... WHERE IT SHOULD COME FROM!!! I could definately feel a big difference in performance!

2.
Doesn't the computer take some time and driving to completely tune the air, fuel, and spark for the mod??

I'll bet if you went out and put 200 miles with MANY WOT runs, you'd get better numbers!

3.

That engine is still VERY TIGHT!!! You need about 10-20K on most engines before they really start running well. My LT1 got 30 MPG on the highway (stock) at about 15K but only about 25 MPG up to that point!

My FQR 5.4 (slap!) is getting about 1-2 less on the highway than my original 5.4 with 50K.

4.

It might not be ANY of these at all!!! Each engine reacts differently. One might see 10 HP gains and another 3 and another 0.... Get my drift??

One engine might run great on Mobil gas and another reacts poorly!

 

I agree about the hot air. I think you traded one bad thing, paper filter for another, hot air.

My .02 on breaking in an engine. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but nothing in a new engine besides the rings/cylinder walls actually *wears* in. It's all hydraulic rollers nowadays. What seats the rings? Cylinder pressure. Where is the most cylinder pressure? I don't see any reason to avoid high rpms on a new engine, especially after you get all the assembly lubes out by changing the oil and filter early.

 

I have a catback made by a local muffler shop
both cats go into a 3" flowmaster the muffler
splits into two 2.25" going out the side.

 

2000 F150 4x4:

It may just be my paranoia. It makes me feel better if I don't introduce a new engine to high revs for a while. The new metals need to be stretched slowly.

Just my way. Always had the best luck with this approach to wear in. I agree that if you always baby an engine from new, it will not take to more strenuous driving habits very well and usually will develop ridges in the cylinder walls. I don't always baby a new engine, only in the first 1-2k miles.

 

The truth will come with the exhaust mod.

Do a run with the custom exhaust and OEM airbox then another with the exhaust and your airbox mod. So far, all you've show is that the "bottle-neck" isn't the airbox.

BTW, thanks for the reviews. I, for one, appreciate the tests you are doing.

Neal

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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, 2000 "XLT" wheels, 4.10 gears, Auburn LS, Clarion In-dash CD player, Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars.

2000 4x2 F150 XLT Reg. Cab LWB- 5.4L, Tow Pkg, 3.55LS, CD player,Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, Special Appearance Pkg., tinted windows, Line-X bedliner, 285/60R16 Goodyear Eagle GT IIs and Prime #155 wheels.

http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo

 

I have to disagree with "2000 F150"...

If your engine did not, in fact, have to go through a break-in period, your owners manual would have language to that effect!

Why do the manufacturers recommend a break-in period? Stay below 55MPH, no hard braking, avoid a lot of highway driving (thats a good one)... There's a reason for this!

I'm not going to explain why, nor give some sort of essay explaining why "I" think this way. Common sense tells me its the right thing to do... I'm stickin with the expert engineers who build trucks/cars... They know better than I (we) do!