I have heard a bunch of people have this problem. It started 3 months ago with 33K on it. I changed the fuel filter and it ran like a charm. Now I'm getting the same thing, and I'm hearing Idle Air Control Valve. Will this fix it and how hard is it to do? I'm not the swiftest mechanic. I just need to get it fixed and be reliable

 

1) Tap on IAC then see if truck will idle on it's own.

2a) Truck still doesn't idle - skip to next post.

2b) Truck idles own it's own - drive to dealership.

3) Say "IAC", give man $60.

 

Thanks....sounds like a problem that happens alot. Will this fix it or will it go bad within 20K of driving. Also, any other obvious things I should be aware of.

 

My IAC gummed up at 30k under warranty. I think the invoice was about $60.

I'm at 44k now so it's too early to tell if 30k is where they stick in my area. I did have to use the tap technique for a few weeks as they were on back order, which goes to show how common this is.

If you have a sliding window check for leaking as that was a problem for '99 and earlier. I had that too but, didn't get any piston slap yet and I've ran the truck pretty hard, taking it to the track and running from the law and whatnot.

 

So where exactly is the IAC anyway, can I get to it from the hood or under? And what did you use to tap it.

 

For reference on the 5.4L, find the passengerside windshield wiper post.
Look straight down under the post.
The IAC is bolted to the top of the motor.
It has a 1/2 inch hose feeding out to the driver's side.

First time it happened to me I was tool-less so, I used my jack handle. When I found out I would be like this for awhile, I carried a 12" screwdriver with me.

When you see it you'll know that you can't do a 'hammer swing'.
You have to stab at it like a spear to do your taps.

You don't have to hit it hard.
I don't know how big a boy you are or what 'tap' means to you but, the truck should not rock.

(If the IAC comes off, you done hit it too hard)