Earth Magnets on oil filter
I recently read an article where someone put a few earth magnets on the outside skin of the oil filter. Apparently, the filtration of smaller metal particles in the oil stream increased and was trapped inside the filter case. During an oil change, the magnets are removed and reinstalled on the new filter.
Has anyone done this before? What would happen to the magnetized particles which may dislodge and re-enter the oil stream??
Comments would be appreciated.
Has anyone done this before? What would happen to the magnetized particles which may dislodge and re-enter the oil stream??
Comments would be appreciated.
What do you do with non ferrous metallic particles??
What about moisture, fuel, glycol.
What do you do about small particles of Silicone(sand/dirt?)
These are all potentially harm causing particles that should also be removed from your oil to prevent wear and or damage.
I would think a magnet would be a waste of time. My personal opinion only.
What about moisture, fuel, glycol.
What do you do about small particles of Silicone(sand/dirt?)
These are all potentially harm causing particles that should also be removed from your oil to prevent wear and or damage.
I would think a magnet would be a waste of time. My personal opinion only.
I wore two different colored socks and I got 2 more mpg.
I tried experimenting with different colors to get the optimum.
I tried wearing one sock and my truck wouldn't start.
I tried experimenting with different colors to get the optimum.
I tried wearing one sock and my truck wouldn't start.
if you want to filter the oil more, use one of those screens. it is a 280 micron screen and you put it on top of any spin-on filter. I use one on my race car because it gives me an opportunity to see what is floating through the oil without cutting open the filter. It's a good way to see a problem developing internally before it BITES you. Also, use a magnetic drain plug, it'll let you know if you have metal parts in the pan.
Originally posted by Greg Mc
if you want to filter the oil more, use one of those screens. it is a 280 micron screen and you put it on top of any spin-on filter. I use one on my race car because it gives me an opportunity to see what is floating through the oil without cutting open the filter. It's a good way to see a problem developing internally before it BITES you. Also, use a magnetic drain plug, it'll let you know if you have metal parts in the pan.
if you want to filter the oil more, use one of those screens. it is a 280 micron screen and you put it on top of any spin-on filter. I use one on my race car because it gives me an opportunity to see what is floating through the oil without cutting open the filter. It's a good way to see a problem developing internally before it BITES you. Also, use a magnetic drain plug, it'll let you know if you have metal parts in the pan.
Most full flow filters are capable of filtering to 20-30 microns. This is very small.
NOTE: One micron is one millionth of a meter, or thirty-nine millionths of an inch. An ordinary grain of table salt is about 100 microns, and 25 microns is approximately one-thousandth of an inch.
I think the true key to removing contaminants would be to find a filter that can remove smaller particles. Also one that can remove water/fuel/and glycol.
Someone on this board...
...uses some sort of clamp on or stick-on magnet thingie on his oil filter, and has posted the pics of both the magnet and the oil filter when he has changed it and cut it in half to show the crap it catches. Pretty scary and impressive. I think he has it on a Lightning. Do a search or wait for him to reply to the post.
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Last edited by rocketir; Dec 18, 2001 at 03:27 PM.
If you are going to do the magnet thing correctly then lets get a before and after analysis of your oil.
Huh removing all of the ferrous metal with a magnet you should have near 0 Iron readings in your analysis.
Though I would suspect everything else being equal.
You guys are spending $60. Heck that is half price of a good by-pass filtration system. With that you get to remove all of the other contaminants that I talked about.
Take a look at:
www.oilguard.com
http://www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html
http://www.bypassfilter.com/
With those filters you can see a substantial before and after difference in your oil analysis readings. In all catagories that I mentioned.
Huh removing all of the ferrous metal with a magnet you should have near 0 Iron readings in your analysis.
Though I would suspect everything else being equal.
You guys are spending $60. Heck that is half price of a good by-pass filtration system. With that you get to remove all of the other contaminants that I talked about.
Take a look at:
www.oilguard.com
http://www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html
http://www.bypassfilter.com/
With those filters you can see a substantial before and after difference in your oil analysis readings. In all catagories that I mentioned.
It is time to put on the waders . The $#!t is getting too deep .
I just want to know the calculated Return On Investment (ROI) . Can anyone justify all of these expenses on longevity with conclusive evidence vs recommended schedule of maintenance and component function ?
I just want to know the calculated Return On Investment (ROI) . Can anyone justify all of these expenses on longevity with conclusive evidence vs recommended schedule of maintenance and component function ?
Originally posted by canyonslicker
It is time to put on the waders . The $#!t is getting too deep .
I just want to know the calculated Return On Investment (ROI) . Can anyone justify all of these expenses on longevity with conclusive evidence vs recommended schedule of maintenance and component function ?
It is time to put on the waders . The $#!t is getting too deep .
I just want to know the calculated Return On Investment (ROI) . Can anyone justify all of these expenses on longevity with conclusive evidence vs recommended schedule of maintenance and component function ?
here is one that I dug up:
http://www.oilguardfilters.com/savings_calculations.htm
This is very conservative. If you used oil analysis with this the interval could be longer. Same goes if you used synthetics. We are talking drain intervals of 50,000+ miles.
I acutally quote 100,000+ on the side of my truck!
Originally posted by msparks
Just so I won't sound bias.
here is one that I dug up:
http://www.oilguardfilters.com/savings_calculations.htm
This is very conservative. If you used oil analysis with this the interval could be longer. Same goes if you used synthetics. We are talking drain intervals of 50,000+ miles.
I acutally quote 100,000+ on the side of my truck!
Just so I won't sound bias.
here is one that I dug up:
http://www.oilguardfilters.com/savings_calculations.htm
This is very conservative. If you used oil analysis with this the interval could be longer. Same goes if you used synthetics. We are talking drain intervals of 50,000+ miles.
I acutally quote 100,000+ on the side of my truck!
Originally posted by Eduk8er
Sounds like a great filter. I just can't make myself go that long between changes...I'm sorry. I thought the original thread said something about magnets. I use a magnetic drain plug and everytime I change oil, there is a small amount on magnetic slury on it. It looks like grey grease and it contains micron size particals of my engine. So, I don't care what size the particals are than get through ANY filter, if they are made of steel, the magnets will help.
Sounds like a great filter. I just can't make myself go that long between changes...I'm sorry. I thought the original thread said something about magnets. I use a magnetic drain plug and everytime I change oil, there is a small amount on magnetic slury on it. It looks like grey grease and it contains micron size particals of my engine. So, I don't care what size the particals are than get through ANY filter, if they are made of steel, the magnets will help.
It doesnt make sense to purchase something that only does half or 1/4 the job.
By pass filters will remove all of the harmful particles in your engine.
As far as oil drains go, that is another thing I don't understand. You will change you oil faithfull at whatever interval, but do you really know what is going on as far as engine wear, oxidation, nitration, dirt ingestion, and numerous other things that could happen.
Oil analysis is a true scientific test of your oil. Then and only then will you know how well the oil is doing its job.
Here's my $0.02. When I rebuilt my `80 Kaw Z1R (KZ1000) I had the foresight to epoxy a magnet to the bottom of my oil pan. Aside from the pan gate I put in it to keep the oil from running back on hard launches on the track. The magnet will pick up the superfine particles the filter misses. But this is me, and I tend to go of the deep end with these little details.



