Should I Engine flush
Well guys I am the new kid on the block and have just purchased a 1999 ford XLT that has 24,000 miles on her. I have been reading all the postings on this great site. now the question I do not know what kind of oil has been used in the truck and I wont to replace it with Mobil-1. should I do an engine flush and if so with what product. keep in mind amsoil can not be found in this part of the country. have you herd of gunk engine flush? is it ok
Unless you have any reason to suspect that things are clogged or gooey in the engine, there is no compelling reason to flush the engine with any exotic chemicals.
Merely change to the 'oil-du-jour' and listen to it purr (some of the folks here swear by the proper Ford® oil filter -- to ensure proper drain-back protection).
Enjoy your new truck!
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Y2K™
XLT SC SB 5.4L 3.73LS
Merely change to the 'oil-du-jour' and listen to it purr (some of the folks here swear by the proper Ford® oil filter -- to ensure proper drain-back protection).
Enjoy your new truck!
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Y2K™
XLT SC SB 5.4L 3.73LS
Engine Flush?? I used stp engine flush at 23,000 miles. Poured contents into engine and ran at approx. 1500 rpm for 20 mins. DO NOT DRIVE! The flush was a red color like transmission fluid. When I drained the oil while still warm I could not tell if it cleaned anything at all. The oil looked good or the same as when I normally drain it. So flush if you like but I don't think its needed if you change your oil often and use mobile 1....Capt.
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Capt. America..,
1998 F-150 XLTSC...2WD.. . 4.10LS rear...auto E40D... 5.4L...Flairside... Ground effects... Billet Pedals... Billet Grill... Billet Brake lite... Oval Mirror... Bed rails... Bug Deflector... Wood Grain Kit...Fog lites... TPS...Velocity tube... K&N... ss Ford tag.,.Tinted Windows... overhead/floor consoles... Mood lights...Blue bulbs... Alarm...Radar...Dashmat... Fire/Ice rear window tint ...conspicuity reflectors... cd changer...mobil 1... Painted rear Drums... Helwing Sway Bar... Dual Exhaust... Halogen Back-up bulbs... clear corner lens...
Tail lens covers... Leather...Floor Mats... Seat covers...Tow Pkge...
Side window Louvers... Painted Brake calipers... Custom Captian America Paint Job...TRIPLE LED brake lights...Rain guards... Painted throttle body cover...sliding rear window...Superchip...Custom Gas cap holder...2" leveling shackels...Fox tail key chain...Clear turn signal bulbs..
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Capt. America..,
1998 F-150 XLTSC...2WD.. . 4.10LS rear...auto E40D... 5.4L...Flairside... Ground effects... Billet Pedals... Billet Grill... Billet Brake lite... Oval Mirror... Bed rails... Bug Deflector... Wood Grain Kit...Fog lites... TPS...Velocity tube... K&N... ss Ford tag.,.Tinted Windows... overhead/floor consoles... Mood lights...Blue bulbs... Alarm...Radar...Dashmat... Fire/Ice rear window tint ...conspicuity reflectors... cd changer...mobil 1... Painted rear Drums... Helwing Sway Bar... Dual Exhaust... Halogen Back-up bulbs... clear corner lens...
Tail lens covers... Leather...Floor Mats... Seat covers...Tow Pkge...
Side window Louvers... Painted Brake calipers... Custom Captian America Paint Job...TRIPLE LED brake lights...Rain guards... Painted throttle body cover...sliding rear window...Superchip...Custom Gas cap holder...2" leveling shackels...Fox tail key chain...Clear turn signal bulbs..
I don't think you need to bother flushing it. I changed to Mobil1 Synthetic at about 30,000 km and didn't flush it first. With so few miles, I don't think your engine will be very dirty.
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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP, etc.
More info at http://www.fordf150.net
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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP, etc.
More info at http://www.fordf150.net
Kelly probably has the best take on flushing the engine with so few miles on it.
Although all conventional (Group I, II) base oils will leave deposits, varnish and are prone to sludge generation. And if you had high miles (over 50k) then a flush would really be necessary as it would help break up all the remnants that the old oil left behind.
The Mobil 1 product has enough of an additive package (although Syntec gives it a run for its money and its not even a 'true' synthetic) that it should be able to remove any deposits that are left behind. Mobil's 7500 mile change interval combined with their 10 micron oil filter will suit your engine nicely....good choice.
Randy
Although all conventional (Group I, II) base oils will leave deposits, varnish and are prone to sludge generation. And if you had high miles (over 50k) then a flush would really be necessary as it would help break up all the remnants that the old oil left behind.
The Mobil 1 product has enough of an additive package (although Syntec gives it a run for its money and its not even a 'true' synthetic) that it should be able to remove any deposits that are left behind. Mobil's 7500 mile change interval combined with their 10 micron oil filter will suit your engine nicely....good choice.
Randy
I would not do it with only 24,000 miles! It is still 'like' new! I don't think you need to worry a great deal about flushing your engine.
And I agree..the Mobil 1 is just enough to clean out what little might be in your engine. It was recently suggested that if you want to change over to Mobil 1, change the oil and filter with Mobil 1..drive it for 1-2,000 miles, then change the oil and filter again. Then follow the recommended intervals there after. Use a quality fuel also to help keep carbon deposits to a minimum.
I avoid all engine oil additives...99% are not needed for new or low mileage engines. High mileage engines..sure..there is some benefit due to wear and tear. Frequent oil changes along with the filter is the very best way to protect your engine for now. Avoid crap like slick 50 and Duralube..waste of money(for anything other than a high mileage engine)...and the owners manual also states not to use additives period.
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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99
[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 04-12-2000).]
And I agree..the Mobil 1 is just enough to clean out what little might be in your engine. It was recently suggested that if you want to change over to Mobil 1, change the oil and filter with Mobil 1..drive it for 1-2,000 miles, then change the oil and filter again. Then follow the recommended intervals there after. Use a quality fuel also to help keep carbon deposits to a minimum.
I avoid all engine oil additives...99% are not needed for new or low mileage engines. High mileage engines..sure..there is some benefit due to wear and tear. Frequent oil changes along with the filter is the very best way to protect your engine for now. Avoid crap like slick 50 and Duralube..waste of money(for anything other than a high mileage engine)...and the owners manual also states not to use additives period.
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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99
[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 04-12-2000).]
I ENJOY READING EVERYONES MESSAGES ON THIS COOL SITE. MY QUESTION IS SIMILIAR TO FORD ROOKIES, EXCEPT I HAVE BEEN USING QUAKERSTATE 4X4 10W30 SYNTHETIC BLEND SINCE HAVING 5000 MILES ON MY 97 FORD F-150 4X4. OIL HAS BEEN CHANGED REGULARLY EVERY 3000 MILES. I NOW HAVE 35,000 MILES ON IT. MY QUESTION IS IF I WANT TO SWITCH TO FULL SYNTHETIC LIKE MOBIL 1, WHICH WEIGHT WOULD BE BETTER FOR MY TRUCK? SHOULD I STAY WITH 10W30 SINCE I HAVE BEEN USING THAT WEIGHT FOR THE MAJORITY OF THE TIME OR WOULD 5W30 BE BETTER? I DO MOSTLY ALOT OF SHORT TRIPS AROUND TOWN AND OCCASIONAL HIGHWAY WITH HARDLY ANY TOWING. ENGINE SIZE IS 4.6L. ANY HONEST OPINIONS AND TIPS WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED FOR THIS NEW COMER AS WELL.
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teedo,
I believe that the QS product is a group III synthetic blend, so you shouldn't have too much difficulty swapping over to the Mobil product without a flush. The higher quality of the QS oil over conventional oil means that is should have left less deposits and therefor the additive package in the Mobil should be strong enough for you.
If you go to a 5K oil change interval (which is well within Mobil's recommendations for the Mobil 1) then you should change the filter at about 3K. Other than that you should be fine.
Randy
I believe that the QS product is a group III synthetic blend, so you shouldn't have too much difficulty swapping over to the Mobil product without a flush. The higher quality of the QS oil over conventional oil means that is should have left less deposits and therefor the additive package in the Mobil should be strong enough for you.
If you go to a 5K oil change interval (which is well within Mobil's recommendations for the Mobil 1) then you should change the filter at about 3K. Other than that you should be fine.
Randy
Welcome to the baord guys.
teedo- you can stay with the same weight oil, it will not cause you any problems. And could you please not write in all caps, it makes it harder to read. thanks
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2000 F-150 Supercab
Toreado Red
4.2l V6
Flowmaster 40 series single in dual out
K&N aif filter
Class III reciever Hitch
Mobil1 Synthetic
tazman_65@hotmail.com Home
norman.green@equistarchem.com work
[This message has been edited by TAZMAN (edited 04-14-2000).]
[This message has been edited by TAZMAN (edited 04-14-2000).]
teedo- you can stay with the same weight oil, it will not cause you any problems. And could you please not write in all caps, it makes it harder to read. thanks
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2000 F-150 Supercab
Toreado Red
4.2l V6
Flowmaster 40 series single in dual out
K&N aif filter
Class III reciever Hitch
Mobil1 Synthetic
tazman_65@hotmail.com Home
norman.green@equistarchem.com work
[This message has been edited by TAZMAN (edited 04-14-2000).]
[This message has been edited by TAZMAN (edited 04-14-2000).]
Well guys I made the change to Mobil-1and also went with the Ford motorcraft oil filter. took a trip to Houston and back checked the oil and it is as clear as the day I put it in. and no leaks may I say thanks for the Info as to flush or not to flush an engine with so few miles on it.


