Okay here is the situation, I have my 85 F-150, I park it on a hill everyday. The other day when I drained the oil, I got about 2.5 gallons of oil/gas mix out of the crankcase. Did the hill cause this drain? I also had the same problem in a 68 beetle that was parked in the same place. Me and the hill are the only 2 constants.

 

Holy cow! The only thing I can think of is that 1 or more of your injectors aren't closing and the pressure left in the fuel lines is draining into the cylinders, past the rings and into the crankcase.
Unless it's carburated, then the seals in the bowls are gone. Look down the throats and check to see if it's always wet.
I really can't think of any other way for fuel to get in the crankcase, although I'm sure somebody else will.

2 1/2 gallons? you're lucky you didn't bend the crank.

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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.




[This message has been edited by Indyfan (edited 03-14-2000).]

 

It is carberated, I would like to get rid of the old carb anyhow... The possiabilties are endless!

 

If the tank is above the engine, gas can fill the carb bowl and overflow because the float, and needle valve, is allowing the fuel to keep running into the bowl. Replace the float and valve seat. This is from my experience where I had the same problem on a Corvette parked on a hill.

 

That would make sense. when it is parked on the hill the tank would be above the float boal.

 

Hmmm...since the fuel tank is normally about 2 ft below the carb the truck would have to be parked on a cliff for the tank to be above the level of the carburetor.

 

Even if the needle valve was stuck open and the float wasn't closing, wouldn't the fuel come out the vents on the carb.? I still can't see how it would get into the oil pan.

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1998 Ford F-250 LD XLT, 5.4 4X4, Midnight Blue/Grey 2-tone, Line-X, Leather, Kenwood Excelon, Rockford 600a5, JL Audio 10", 285/75/R16's, Flowmaster 40 series cat-back with 3" pipe, Chrome tip, Superchip, K&N Filter.

Coming Soon: Rancho RSX shocks, Superwhite Headlights, Clear turn signal lenses, factory fog lights.

 

If you have a mechanical fuel pump it could be from a pin hole in the pump diaphram. Had a tractor that did this one time, no problem when it was running, just when it was turned off.

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98 Nascar Edition, Superchip, Airaid, Flowmaster 70 series, bedliner, in bed tool box, Profile bug deflector and window vents, Class III receiver hitch.

 

The reason I even changed the oil at that time was that I was replacing the head on the truck and wanted new blood in it. I replaced the head because the truck wasn't running well (it would start sometimes) and then would run like a cilinder or three weren't firing. so I thought a new head wouldn't hurt.

 

I had the same problem with the old "81" F-350. Fuel pump went bad internally. The truck still ran, but the engine started knocking really bad and the oil pressure dropped out. I dumped the oil and filled 2 drain pans. Oil and gas mixed. Lucky not to have spun a bucket full of bearings. The gas started dissolving all the sludge that was caused by the Quaker State Black Death oil at the time. Oil screen fully plugged up.
1) Lifted engine
2) Removed oil pan
3) Used lords name in vain
4) spooned endless amounts of sludge out of pan.
5) Put it all back together
6) Replaced fuel pump.
7) Changed the oil and filter (duh..)
8) Changed filter a few more times due to paranoia.
That was at around 120Kmi. Lasted to 180K then BOOM!!.

Rick...........


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"99" F-150 4x2,ext, med red / silver, 4.2L, auto, 3.55's, 265x16's premium snd w/cd, 4 wheel antilocks, leer "too heavy" matching cap, Mobil 1.

 

You must either have the 300 or the 351HO?

 

Mine was the 351, your right, it'd have to be one of em...........

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"99" F-150 4x2,ext, med red / silver, 4.2L, auto, 3.55's, 265x16's premium snd w/cd, 4 wheel antilocks, leer "too heavy" matching cap, Mobil 1.

 

Yep mine is a 300cdi. I made some sludge, how hard is it to take the pan off? My oil light has been flickering... I thought bad sensor.

 

Don't park on a hill!!! Just Kidding!

 

Yup, mechanical fuel pump with a tear in the rubber diaphram is one of the best ways to end up with your own "oil well".
I just missed the "black death" back then, the Quaker State case I bought was from an OK date code. For those of you who don't know, Quaker State got a bad batch of additive from their supplier back about 1980 or so. Would turn the oil into goo at low temp. Worked with a guy who was the first I heard of it. He changed oil in his Chevy LUV truck. Then parked outside at -10F, in morning started it up, bad sounds, oil light on, shut it off. Checked dipstick, no oil! Looked under truck, no leaks, where did it go? Pushed into garage (connected to house), checked oil after work that night, the oil was back again! Did this twice, then figured that oil was thickening in the cold, would get pumped up into head, and stay up there till it was warmer, then it would drain back to pan. About 2 months later, it started making the news, and Quaker State replaced some engines. After that, you can bet they test each batch of additives!