It is not an actual sensor. It is a plug in module that just connect 2 wires basically. When you pull it you are not allowing the computer to advance the timing. So it stay static at what it is set at.

when it is in, it is the computer pulling the timing or adding it. So that is setup in the computer program.

Does anyone that is having this problem running a chip in the computer? if so, remove it to test.

Also, take off the TB to MAF hose and inspect the TB there. If there is a LOT of carbon, your best bet is to get an EFI flush. You can spray and wipe it out with EFI cleaner (generic blue can Napa stuff works miracles!!!) and then run some HD berryman injector cleaner through a tank of gas. Also clean the MAF. You may also want to check the ACT sensor in the TB to MAF tube and test it as stated in a manual. That may cause some odd issues, wild guess but something to check.

 

Matt

I think the thing you are refurring to is the "octane shorting bar", it works exactly as you describe but is not the KNOCK sensor. The knock sensor is located on right side valley of a 4.6L (on my 98 anyway). It is supposed to create a a/c varying voltage when it "hears" a knock (was it a peizo electric device) can't remember those school days anymore.

Anyway my truck is a 98 F150 4x4 4.6L SC and also pings like it gonna explode. Ibought it used about 4 months ago. It started this about 3,000 miles after I got. It's been to Ford 4 times and they can't find the root of problem. All they give me is excuses.
1. We'll decarbonize it (made no difference)
2.Run higher octane gas (the manual says not to-87 only)(tried 89 and it didn't help)
3.We didn't hear it (my favorite, they heard it the first 2 times)
4.Day after #3 and me diriving with tech, " I hear it, that's not normal"said the tech,"you must have bad gas" ( funny, I must have put gas in it 10 times since the first time it was there for the problem. ) Now they tell me to switch brands for a month AND they want reciepts.(three tanks full and it seems to be getting worse as the cold air is settling in.

I have many things at my disposal to play with this thing,(I don't think I should have to but...) I've done the things others on this site have suggested with minimal if any change. I have even swapped out the Mass Air with a "performance", low restriction unit (minor change in the "ping" but a noticeable performance increase). I 've added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator since my Pressure was a little low at idle (really wasn't any change) I've pulled the throttle body assembly(with the EGR spacer) off and cleaned it out (wasn't too bad, I've seen MUCH worse. This didn't help either). I did remove that Octane Bar ( no help there either) I did reset the computer each time to.
And I also have the dreaded FOU1 code.
Is the Superchip my only hope. I really don't think so.

 

In all honesty, the computer seems to make more sense than anything else to me atleast. There are a LOT of us on here with the same problem, all of us with trucks that are only 2 or 3 years old with low milage. There's just no reason for all these sensors needing cleaned out or replaced, much less for the intake manifold and EGR system needing cleaned out. And IF any of that was the problem, wouldn't the predetonation occur much more consistantly? (It would seem like if it was a sensor, or a dirty intake, it would do it all the time regardless of what the temperature is.) My truck runs perfect when it's warm outside, and then only pings when the temperature drops below 60 or so. Other than the computer, why would the temperature effect any of the other possibilites we've come up with?

 

STX:
You've got a good point; the pinging really should do it all the time rather than under cold or load conditions of the truck. I've noticed that it tends to happen more when I floor it on the highway. I asked a tech teacher at my school where I teach and he basically said what some of the guys here have been told by the FORD techs, namely, that some ping is normal when an engine is asked to do too much in such a short time. He also said that the chip can make all the difference (which also goes along with what you've said.) I'm with you on this one, I think it's the chip that was not designed for such performance. If you think about it, we have to admit that they are meant for work, not races. Otherwise, they'd come stock with superchips like the lightnings and etc.

just my .02 cents

 

My symptoms and what I've done:

Pings under load (accelerating or going up hill). Won't start to ping until the engine is warmed up (say after 15 mi of hwy driving). More pinging is present in HOT weather vs COLD weather. Engine temp is a factor. Mine is a 5 Spd (auto or standard is not a factor). Changed from 87 octane to 89. Some pinging still present (refuse to pay for the 93 octane). Dealer de-carboned and plugs changed and some other work (oem plugs are outrageously expensive); this had no effect (still pinging after $400.00). Yesterday I cleaned the MAF sensor with a Q-Tip and windex (as suggested earlier in this thread). Today I filled up with regular 87 octane gas and loaded her up good. Low RPM's, slow speed in high gear and no pinging. High RPM's, slow speed in low gear and no pinging. In overdrive (5th) from 80 km/h (50 m/h) accelerating with the pedal to the floor up to 140 km/h (90ish m/h) and no pinging. I have a smile on my face.

 

That sounds about EXACTLY like my truck but without the favorable outcome. I wish.

 

My pinging would stop when I put in 93 octane - but when I went back to 87 it would start pinging again A friend suggested to put in a can of BG Products 44K ($18.95 for an 11 oz. can) - he said they used to use it at the BMW dealer where he used to be a mechanic.

I put the can in the tank at about 3/4 full of 93 octane and ran the tank down to about 5 gallons. Then I put 87 octane back in, and so far (150 miles) have not had the pinging come back. I know it's too soon to be sure, but the truck hasn't run this good on 87 for a long time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

the thing that i found that works is to use the BG 44K product to decarbonize the engine, some trucks might need an extra helping due to high milage and more carbon buildup, and to run 87 octane gas, the higher the octane the less fuel that actually burns, and the more carbon is deposited onto the pistons and combustion chambers, also need to make sure the engine is run to at least 3000-3500 rpm's once in a while to break the carbon loose. these engines have tight tolerences and slight carbon buildup is more pronounced.

 

My computer was reprogrammed at the dealer last week. GUESS WHAT, It still pings! But on the bright side now it also has less power, AND even worse gas mileage (13.5mpg now 12.5mpg) I think the only cure now is a lawyer.

 

It isn't carbon build up in these engines, not with the kind of miles you are talking about. They just run too clean for that. It has to be in your faulty computers. Check with Mike at Superchips. He can put a smile on your face like he has done for others.

 

"Maybe I'm I talking out of my A$$

 

Naw, I don't think so. I'm sorry, but these suth sayers that get on here solving the worlds problems (ie...unplug something) are the ones talking out of their arss!

 

I'm not so sure how tight these engines are built. I pulled out 6 of the 8 plug on my 4.6L (32K miles) on Saturday. 5 of the 6 were nice and clean, but one had a big carbon deposit on it. I cleaned it off and replaced it.

The reason I pulled the plugs out to check them is because the dealership couldn't find anything electrically wrong with the truck (ie, computer and sensors). I took a trip from Tucson to San Diego a couple weeks ago and noticed my truck used about a half quart of oil (5w30 mobil one) in about 900 miles. So I thought there may be a link here...oil usage and carbon deposits in one cylinder.

So I stopped by the dealership to talk to the service manager. Guess what he said? The carbon buildup must not have been too bad or it would have caused a misfire code in the ECU. So, I asked about the oil usage. His response was that Ford says 1 quart every 800 miles is normal under heavy driving. I told him I just drove to San Diego and back and that is not heavy driving (even though there are some mountains that you go through). I asked him too if he would tolerate a truck using 4-5 quarts of oil between oil changes and he said of course not. He also said a half a quart in 900 miles isn't anything to sweat. Go figure.

Anyways, I also asked him why a quart in 800 miles would be considered normal by Ford. His response was that the piston to cylinder fit in the modular engines are much looser to allow less friction and higher MPG. If that's the case, and a quart of oil in 800 miles under heavy usage is considered normal, I think carbon buildup is going to be a BIG PROBLEM.

Thoughts?

 

I know that's what they say, but that's not right. Did you see any smoke from your exhaust? Did you notice a miss from the fouled plug? Sounds like you got a cylinder or 2 not right. If the engine was loose, wouldn't all the plugs be fouled?

 

Logic leads me to believe that the tolerances are not as tight as they could be.

I have a '97 with a 4.2L and I also change the oil on my mother's '99 Explorer with a 4.0L and my father's 2000 Ranger with a 4.0L.

I change the oil on all 3 engines at 3,000-4,000 mile intervals and when the oil goes in it's a rich, translucent tan and the oil that comes out is always "BLACK".

I was paying attention to this because I have a BMW motorcycle with a In-Line Triple 750cc engine and 75,000 miles. I change the oil in the motorcyle around 5,000 miles and when it comes out it looks the same as when it went in. I was talking to a BMW mechanic a few years ago about the tolerances inside the cylinders. He had taken a tour of the Factory and explained to me how they run every engine at full redline for 5 minutes before it leaves the factory and that it still takes another 12,000 miles for the rings to seat properly.

I think that this is just how Ford engines are designed, for whatever reason.