I've got a '99 F150 5.4L with the ORP (skid plates, etc) and group III towing. The truck was build in April of '99 and does not have the remote filter.

I've heard that turning the wheel all the way to the right (the filter is bolted on to the driver's side of the engine, right under the nice hot exhaust headers.) is the best way to get at it. I tried this, and it still looks extremely difficult. Are there any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance

------------------
'99 Lariat Supercab
5.4L, 3.73 LSD, 4x4
265/70R17 GY Wrang. AT/S
(I can see for miles up here.)
4-leaf springs
K&N filter

 

Well I don't know on your truck but on my 00' it was a major pain in the butt. I would almost pay to have it done. The best way is to reach around all the steering stuff from underneath up front and turn the oilf filter with your hand. You will have problems getting at it with an O.F. wrench. Worth a try but I don't know for sure. Good Luck.

Bones

------------------
2000 F-150, XLT, 4X2, Ext. Cab, S/B, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Tow Package, Premium Sound CD Player.

Future Mods: NONE, I'm broke.

 

'97 4x2 4.6L... No problem changing oil filter. Wheels straight ahead, slide under from the driver side behind the left front wheel. Right hand easily reaches filter and drain plug. I run it for a while to heat the oil some, then shut it down and wait 15 min. or so. If I don't wait long enough, can feel the driver's side cat radiating heat above my face. So wait for cat to cool, or don't lift head!

 

Here's a couple of notes for you... My father did a study a few years back on oil changes. (We've got 7 daily drivers in the house, and four not-so-daily drivers, so we're always changing oil!) What we found was that when you drain the oil out of the pan, the longer you let the engine sit before popping the plug, the more oil you will drain out. The only thing we could attribute this to was that when you let the car warm up, the oil is circulated through the upper reaches of the engine. The longer you allow the vehicle to sit, the more old oil drains into the pan, and subsequently out of the engine. On average, we found that you could drain out 2/3 of a quart more if you let it sit overnight in the garage before draining the oil. The other advantage this gives you is that when you break the oil filter loose, it was not freshly pumped full of oil either. (This could account for part of that extra oil in the pan.) It was nothing professional, just our observations.

Now, as for the sloppy pain in the A$$ filter on the 4.6, when I had my 97, I had to turn the wheel just like they said above, but then when you broke the seal on the filter, all the oil drained out right on top of the differential, raining down from all sides! There was no good, clean way to get around it.

On a brighter note, I'm looking at replacing my Explorer (Lemon) with a new 150, and I'm looking at the 5.4. Does this engine share the same problem? Has this pain in the a$$ setup been modified yet?

Thanx.

-Joe-

 

To change the oil on 5.4/4.6 4x4 applications
isn't as hard as it looks. Granted I haven't changed the oil on these trucks on the ground, but on a hoist it's ok. To remove the oil filter a oil filter strap type wrench works. To reach the filter work from the l/f of the truck. You don't have to turn the wheels if it's in the air but might if it's on the ground. The new 5.4 and 4.6 have a plastic drain tray that diverts the oil away from the top of the differential. Maybe you might try and remove the front skid plate to make it easier.

 

GIJOECAM,

Yes the new oil filter setup is nice in that you can take the oil filter off and all the oil conveniently drops into a little tray, then conveniently out of that onto you. find where it drips off the catch tray and put a bucket underneath. I had a problem actually getting the filter out of where it sits. Mines a 4X2 so maybe the 4X4 with more ground clearence would be easier. Otherwise I liked the catch tray.

Bones

------------------
2000 F-150, XLT, 4X2, Ext. Cab, S/B, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Tow Package, Premium Sound CD Player.

Future Mods: NONE, I'm broke.

 

I also like the metal drip pan for the oil that drains out of the filter. It is a slight pain to get the filter out unless the wheels are turned to the right.

The oil filter in the 98 5.4L I had used the vertical filter setup..which was easier to get at...however oil would drip all over the sides of the filter.

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 

Just changed my oil on my '99 5.4. It is still a pain in the a$$!! Mine is a 4X4 and that didn't seem to help. Checked on the relocation kit. $ 300.00 from Ford!!! It mounts it on the bumper! NOOO way! It should of been mounted like on the Superduty. Vertically beside the oil pan!! Easy as He11! It took a plastic cap with a long ratchet just to bust mine loose! Poor engineering for a $34,000.00 truck!!

------------------
1999 F-250LD 4X4 XLT Supercab SB, 5.4L, AT, 3.73LS, 33"Wrangler ATS, Dual Exhaust, custom air intake, Color: Harvest Gold cc "Ready to Farm"

 

Actually changing the oil/filter is really easy. You always should warm up the engine. Hot oil flows out easier and whatever junk is in the oil gets suspended in it and is flushed out when you pull the plug. Anyway, I drive it around a bit, pull into the dealer and let them deal with the mess. LOL.

 

I've been looking at Amsoil products. They have a remote w/ bypass filter for $201.00. The service life of the oil and bypass filter is 25,000/1yr, the regular filter gets changed every 15,000/6mos. Perhaps this would be a good solution to the pain in the a@@ quandry.

Has anyone else tried this?

www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html

------------------
'99 Lariat Supercab 4x4 SS
5.4L, 3.73 Diff (9.75" LSD Rear, 8.8" Front)
ORP: Skid Plates, LT265/70R17 GY Wrang. AT/S
Group III towing: HD Electrical/Cooling, GVWR 6500# (Extra leaf spring).
Step Bars
4W Disc anti-lock brakes
K&N filter
Stock Items That Differ Across F150s: Steel Driveshaft, Oil filter bolted to engine w/ drip guard, 4R70W transmission.

 

Just changed oil on my 2000 4X4 and it wasn't bad. The truck was already parked in the garage and had the wheels turned to the left so I thought I would take a look to see why they should be turned to the right. After a few minutes of looking I finally found the filter. Looked bad at first but looking from the front it was easily accessed with the wrench and the hands. Didn't need to turn the wheels to the right.

Easier to change then my old 86 4X4, filter would be unscrewed from the bottom and then removed from the top while the oil leaked from 5 different spots.

Liked the plastic drip tray. Just took a rag and wiped it from top to bottom and all was clean after.

------------------
2000 XLT Sport SC 4x4, 5.4L Auto, Bright Red, CD player, 3.55 LS, Class III Tow, cab steps, Ford tonneau cover, Ford moulded mud flaps. Can't afford any other new toys to add on.

 

Mine is 99 F-159 4x4 I just did 1,00 mile change on a 5.4 and come on now there is nothing to it. They have a trofe to catch the oil from the filter. All you need is a oil filter weanch and a drain pan, 5/8 wench and your there saving 35.00$

------------------
99 F150 xlt s/c orp auto, 2,000 5.4 replacement soft tonneau, rubber maid bed mat,mud from the dirt bike(YZ250)

 

Sorry make that an f-150 and 1,000 oil change