Has anyone tried Bosch Platinum plugs on the 4.6?? Which plugs would you recommend?

 

i used them... i changed the wires at the same time and definately felt a difference (it wasn't big but it was there) go for it !

------------------
pacific green 97 f150 4.6l..reg cab flareside 150XLT ,ROUSH suspention down 3 fr and3.5rear with BILSTIEN shocks,3.55LS,snug lid,carpeted bed, painted tailight accents,4x4 grill &bumper,k&n,SUPERCHIP(THANX MIKE),ram air kit,valvoline synthetic,accel super stock wires,platinum plus4 plugs,flow master muff,blue halogen bulbs, speed-glo dash,carbon fiber gauge accent,..."#6 sticker!!!!"
STEREO:eclipse head unit ,boston seperates ,orion amp, pioneer amp,2-orion 12's,custom box by me!,sony adjustable crossover,1 farad cap&way to many cd's

 

I have grown up with the practice of changing wires, plugs, dist. cap/rotor, etc. each and every year. A little overkill, however I'll pay $100/yr. to never have to worry about ignition or starting problems.

I tried platinum tipped plugs for the first time about 3 years ago and I strongly recommend using them.

The last time I checked them they were still in excellent condition. This year I may replace them!

Good luck!

 

howdy White. This is my 1st post. Anyway to change plugs on the 4.6 isn't as scary as it may look. You'll need a bench or barrel to stand on unless you are 7' tall.Remove thecover over the intake. Pull up your boots starting at the front & replace each plug as you go. Now at the back is where the fun begins. Spray around each boot where it contacts the head & let it soak in. This will make pulling & breaking it loose. I used a 12" specility plier by Harbourfreight that features a pincer-like jaw end. This tool gets into places your hand can't. Finish up putting anti-seize on all threads. The spray i used was rust penetrant. It can be used on all boots to allow removal easier. Make sure the boots are then cleaned off w/ brake cleaner or something similiar so the boots will remain in the head when reinstalled.

------------------
1997 F-150 Lariat S/C 4x2 Styleside,Pacific Green ext/Silver Frost accent, 4.6l Romeo,Auto, 3.55 Limited Slip,Trailer TowPkg.,A/C,Remote Entry & Anti-theft, Power Everything. *Ford Accessories: Wheel Locks,Molded Vinyl Floor Mats, Sill Plates, Molded Mud Guards. *Aftermarketeflecto Bedliner, Lund Bug Shield, Ventshield Side Louvers & Taillite Covers, A.R.E. Fiberglass Tonneau Cover, 22 Piece Burlwood Dash Kit, Custom Hood Insulator Pad, Westin Chrome Step Bars. *Performance:SVO Lighting Wheels W/ 285/50x18 Yokohoma AVS-st Tires, Optima Battery, Evergreen FIPK. *Stereo: Premium Ford Headunit, PAC Lineout Convertors, Coustic 3e Crossover, JBL GTQ-200 & GTQ-400 Amps,Custom Built Subwoofer Box Under Fully Functionally Rear Seat,JL Audio 2 X 10w-4 Subs, & 4 Pioneer 3-Way #6815 Speakers In All 4 Doors. *Whats Next???: Powerdyne Supercharger, Super-Chip, Cat-Back Exhaust, Roush Susp., Ground Effects.

 

I put BOSCH +4 in my 97 4.6 Great plugs, they are just a pain to change. The +4's are (supposed) to be a life time plug and after you change these things, you hope you never have to do it again

 

On these trucks, you are required to use platinum plugs. The bosch platinums are great, but the bosch +4 plugs are even better. They have 4 posts that stop before dead center of the plug, so the spark is directly fired into the cylynder. And you don't have to worry about setting the gap on them.

------------------
Chris Thomas
1998 F-150XLT Flareside STX Sport Package, 4.6L Auto 3.55 Oxford White/Gray interior, Factory Anti-theft system
Picture: http://216.147.104.171/Y2K/members/ChrisT/christ1a.jpg
Homepage: Chris & Brandi's Universe
Mods: A.R.E. Decklid/Oxford White with gray fabric liner, K&N filter with Airbox Mod (removed silencer), Tinted Windows, GTS sloted taillight covers (painted Oxford white to match), Removed STX stickers
Audio: Kenwood Truck speakers with 10" woofers, Rockford Fosgate and Alpine Amps, Ford 10 disk CD changer
Future Mods: 3/4 Lowering Kit (Maybe 4/6 if I don't have to change tires at the same time), 20" rims and tires, True duals with Supertrap tunable mufflers, Superchip, Supercharger, Jacobs Ignition, NOS, and whatever else I can think of!!!

 

Do it, you will like em. Also use dielectric grease on the boots when you re-install to help prevent water penitration. You will need all the cuss words in you vocabulary for the boot pull. Get some of those special pliers.

Try here for a supply:
http://www.automedicsupply.com/index.html

------------------
97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!) MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening, Bosch Platinum + 4's, Hayden 30K+ Tranny Cooler,Class III Reece load distributing hitch system and wiring, Superchip

 

ONE very important thing in the changing plug job is to after removing boot's use compressed air to remove all dirt and debri that has collected at the bottom then spary with the penetrating oil ant-seize on the threads on the new plugs is a good idea also.
I used to work in a ford dealer so i have seen alot of dirt dropped into the combustion chamber, not a good thing.

One other thing Lariet using the penetrating oil on the boots is fine to get them off but not to re-assmable it can act as a conductor, better to use the die-electric on the plug ends that is what it is made for and will make removale latter a lot easyier

Hope these tips help


------------------
2000 blk xlt f150 sc 4x4 orp pkg 5.4 3.55 ls tow pkg herculiner ,sony 10 disc cd-player A.R.E. cap remote start