Engine oil
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Member
Joined: Oct 2001
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Engine oil
After reading the piece about piston slap(which describes my truck almost to a tee), I am going to change my oil &filter,. I used Valvoline 5W30 last time w/ a Fram filter, which inthe article wasn't recommended. I am going to the Motorcraft or Purolator filter as they recommend, & I'm going to a synthetic oil, I;m just wondering if I should stay w/ the 5W30 or go to a 10W40. My truck has 90K on it but oil pressure is good (almost 3/4 to high onthe gauge). Thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
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To: Ron Midura....
First time user of this web site......I have been trying to get information on piston slap, as my '99 F150 Lariat is making a slapping noise during warm-up.....what article are you refering to....Thanks
First time user of this web site......I have been trying to get information on piston slap, as my '99 F150 Lariat is making a slapping noise during warm-up.....what article are you refering to....Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 204
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Ron,
As far as the oil pressure, the gauge is worthless. Ford's oil pressure gauge is merely an analog idiot light that goes up to a little past half when there is greater than a certain minimum amount. This is why it's always perfectly steady when you rev the engine.
This makes me wonder, can the gauge report a high oil pressure condition??
I say going to the motorcraft filter is a wise choice. From all I've heard it seems to be among the best to use, along with the Mobil 1 and the Amsoil filters. It is also pretty inexpensive.
As far as the oil pressure, the gauge is worthless. Ford's oil pressure gauge is merely an analog idiot light that goes up to a little past half when there is greater than a certain minimum amount. This is why it's always perfectly steady when you rev the engine.
This makes me wonder, can the gauge report a high oil pressure condition??
I say going to the motorcraft filter is a wise choice. From all I've heard it seems to be among the best to use, along with the Mobil 1 and the Amsoil filters. It is also pretty inexpensive.
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 17
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From: Cedar Park, TX
what oil?
I wouldn't run a 10W-40 if you are going to a full synthetic like
Mobil 1. Even a 0W-30 or 5W-30 Mobil 1 will have a higher flash
point & better viscosity rating than a dino 10W-40. If you want to
stick with dino oil & are concerned with towing or high temp oper-
ation, I'd go with Delo, Pennz, or Rotela 15W-40. That is really
good stuff that isn't just for diesels. The Delo is actually hydro-
cracked which turns the molecules into a uniform structure more
like pure sythetic molecules. Castrol Syntec (rip-off) is promoted
as a synthetic, but is actually a hydrocracked dino oil (for $4 qt.)
Whatever you use , change at 5,000 & your truck should get 200-
250,000 miles.
Mobil 1. Even a 0W-30 or 5W-30 Mobil 1 will have a higher flash
point & better viscosity rating than a dino 10W-40. If you want to
stick with dino oil & are concerned with towing or high temp oper-
ation, I'd go with Delo, Pennz, or Rotela 15W-40. That is really
good stuff that isn't just for diesels. The Delo is actually hydro-
cracked which turns the molecules into a uniform structure more
like pure sythetic molecules. Castrol Syntec (rip-off) is promoted
as a synthetic, but is actually a hydrocracked dino oil (for $4 qt.)
Whatever you use , change at 5,000 & your truck should get 200-
250,000 miles.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
my .02
It doesn't really matter how many miles on your truck if you go to a higher "W" number (10w vs 5w) than is reccomended in your manual you will have problems at start up. The lower the "W" number the freer flowing it is which will get around the engine faster and hence provide better protection.
Since the early 90's manufactures have gone to low friction engine design. The same oil rules of 10-15 years ago do not apply here. I promise you if you put in 10w, 15w or whatever you will have more problems.
These days it is all about the filter not so much the oil. Synthetic is great stuff (Stick to the recommended viscosity)but it still uses the same additives packages as "dino" oil hence the reason it has the same sae rating and not higher.
Stick to name brand oils(remember the recommended viscosity), consistant changes for your driving style, and a really good filter and you will get many many miles out of your truck!
Peace-
It doesn't really matter how many miles on your truck if you go to a higher "W" number (10w vs 5w) than is reccomended in your manual you will have problems at start up. The lower the "W" number the freer flowing it is which will get around the engine faster and hence provide better protection.
Since the early 90's manufactures have gone to low friction engine design. The same oil rules of 10-15 years ago do not apply here. I promise you if you put in 10w, 15w or whatever you will have more problems.
These days it is all about the filter not so much the oil. Synthetic is great stuff (Stick to the recommended viscosity)but it still uses the same additives packages as "dino" oil hence the reason it has the same sae rating and not higher.
Stick to name brand oils(remember the recommended viscosity), consistant changes for your driving style, and a really good filter and you will get many many miles out of your truck!
Peace-