Engine, Reman or Used?
Engine, Reman or Used?
I can just barely almost (lol) afford a remanufactured $3000 eng. Install I'll assume will be ~$1000. Optionally I found an engine w 60k mi for $1000, shipped. It becomes a $2000 or $4000 deal. I'm concerned over wasting my install money, so I wonder what may be up w a 2001 5.4 that maybe drove 6k/yr for 10 yrs, then maybe sat for 10.
I can just barely almost (lol) afford a remanufactured $3000 eng. Install I'll assume will be ~$1000. Optionally I found an engine w 60k mi for $1000, shipped. It becomes a $2000 or $4000 deal. I'm concerned over wasting my install money, so I wonder what may be up w a 2001 5.4 that maybe drove 6k/yr for 10 yrs, then maybe sat for 10.
Cute, but for this money and at my age, and this F150 being in probably what is its "forever home," (and with me all too close behind,) I will respectfully ask for deeper clarification.
I should save 2 grand and buy the used, but get a bus pass because I may not be safe in counting on it???
I should save 2 grand and buy the used, but get a bus pass because I may not be safe in counting on it???
Last edited by BillSF9c; Mar 19, 2022 at 03:14 AM.
When you install an engine, there may be other expenses such as a new water pump, hoses, etc. As I remember one member had a reman installed in his 2001 or 2002. It was a powertrain products reman that cost $3k and change and by the time it was installed it cost him over $6k.
because you haven’t counted in all the actual costs
Engine, Installation costs, misc like water pump, new hoses... etc. Of course. I have a new water pump. Reman's come with this. My hoses, belt, radiator, manifold, water pump, fan clutch/thermostat are new. This is due to the head gasket issue being so minimal for so long that pressure testing told nothing at 17 psi and diagnosis showed no reason for overheating for what actually was over 2-3 years, until visiting a pal in the hills where it had to exert itself a bit, (near Coloma, site of Sutter's Mill and the 1849 Gold Rush. Sort of Sierra Nevada foothills.)
I'll need manifold gaskets and any (???) obvious stuff. Maybe fresh manifold bolts? Wondered about engine mounting blocks; or, looks good = is good?
But my real question remains...
Dare I trust a 60k engine that *I a$$ume* sat for at LEAST 10 years????? What happens when an engine, sits?
I'll need manifold gaskets and any (???) obvious stuff. Maybe fresh manifold bolts? Wondered about engine mounting blocks; or, looks good = is good?
But my real question remains...
Dare I trust a 60k engine that *I a$$ume* sat for at LEAST 10 years????? What happens when an engine, sits?
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Buying used is taking a chance to save money. If it is coming from a salvage yard, they usually guarantee the engine I think but only offer a free replacement used engine and the installation cost is up to you for both. If you are worried about it, buy a new reman.
[QUOTE=Roadie; If you are worried about it, buy a new reman.[/QUOTE]
Thanks R. With a hobby, oldish, 1960-70 small motorbikes, we'd be concerned for tired valve springs. But they LIVE @~ max rpm, say, 7-10k. I was hoping for insight on Ford V8's which sit, I dunno, on a shelf, under a hood, for 10 years. I HOPE not on a pallet outdoors. Not some wrecking yard,but a place that at least "TESTS" engines that they sell, and, either does nothing else, or maybe also sells reamans.
One vendor today I was vetting, said they stopped because of old parts used... and decidedly sounded as he he was describing, rebuilds, not remans. I politely pointed this out, as if he perhaps, merely misspoke. He made no comment. (Sounded E.Indian.)
Thanks R. With a hobby, oldish, 1960-70 small motorbikes, we'd be concerned for tired valve springs. But they LIVE @~ max rpm, say, 7-10k. I was hoping for insight on Ford V8's which sit, I dunno, on a shelf, under a hood, for 10 years. I HOPE not on a pallet outdoors. Not some wrecking yard,but a place that at least "TESTS" engines that they sell, and, either does nothing else, or maybe also sells reamans.
One vendor today I was vetting, said they stopped because of old parts used... and decidedly sounded as he he was describing, rebuilds, not remans. I politely pointed this out, as if he perhaps, merely misspoke. He made no comment. (Sounded E.Indian.)
Can you upload pictures of the used engine? I saw a 4.6 the other day on fb market place for that exact mileage. It was for a 1997 4.6 though and I'm pretty sure it was a lie. It looked more like 600 thousand miles on it to be quite honest lol. It was corroded and nasty. And someone had changed the manifold to plastic, which seemed very sketchy too. Maybe the odometer broke or something, but there was no way in hell that thing only did 60k miles.
If I bought that engine, I would make sure it was turned over on the starter for a good while intermittently so as not to burn up the starter in order to get some oil on the surfaces that need lube before trying to start it. The old engines you could yank the distributor and turn the oil pump with a drill but I don't know a way to pump oil through the engine nowadays without turning it on the starter.
Geo, pics are an interesting idea. I might ask.
Roadie, I would definitely open the plugs and add some 2 cycle oil, and run the first few gallons of gas at 50 or 100:1. When I buy new I like to add 100:1 gas/2-cycle for 100 mi. Then add gas to make 200:1. Then dilute again for 400:1. A way to circulate some oil to everywhere else would be a boon. I do think I'd try to fire it up, pre-installation. I suspect my 1st oil would be a disposible 5-20 or (even 0-16 new stuff, and SeaFoam, if used was where I went.)
I want to try to pressure them to give the vehicle VIN, if used. This should render what yr it was probably last driven, and 'where the poor animal lived,' telling me something about conditions.
Roadie, I would definitely open the plugs and add some 2 cycle oil, and run the first few gallons of gas at 50 or 100:1. When I buy new I like to add 100:1 gas/2-cycle for 100 mi. Then add gas to make 200:1. Then dilute again for 400:1. A way to circulate some oil to everywhere else would be a boon. I do think I'd try to fire it up, pre-installation. I suspect my 1st oil would be a disposible 5-20 or (even 0-16 new stuff, and SeaFoam, if used was where I went.)
I want to try to pressure them to give the vehicle VIN, if used. This should render what yr it was probably last driven, and 'where the poor animal lived,' telling me something about conditions.
Maybe remove the valve covers too and see if there is sludge. If there is sludge, reject it because the oil wasn't changed often enough. Also, you could pour oil on the cams. I would worry about the cams not being lubed on startup.
No core on most used engines, so, I'd at least rob my very new plastic manifold, and useful accessories.






