Well I have determined that the rattling noise from my engine could be due to the VCT solenoids being bad or clogged . I unplugged them and the noise went away and my truck seemed to run better. I have a 2010 with the 5.4 with 123000 miles and I don't think it was taken very good care of. A mechanic friend of mine said to flush the engine first before replacing the VCT solenoids and I had another mechanic tell me not to because it will free up the sludge and damage the engine. I have heard good things about using BG"s Engine Performance Restoration Flush and MOA oil supplement. I was wondering if anyone had any advice if I should try the flush or just replace the VCT solenoids. Thanks for the help!

 

Put 20W50 oil in it and sell the truck.

 

The only flush that I would trust is AutoRX. Use exactly as directed on their web site.

Note that there's a screen on the solenoid that gets plugged.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I really love the truck and would like to keep it. GLC, I looked into the AutoRX and it sounds like it works so am going to order some and give it a try before I replace the VCT solenoids. Thanks.

 

It's funny this was posted, because I just watched one of Scotty's videos that he just posted a few hours ago:

 

I agree with the video.

In 71 or 72 I bought a 59 Chevy Impala 4 drhdtp with a 283 V8 for $100 mainly to have something to work on. It smoked like a coal burning freight train. It had just over 100k miles on it and the PO had run non-detergent oil in it for 50k miles and then decided to use detergent oil again. The detergent oil broke up enough sludge to plug the oil drain holes in the heads and oil was building up above the valve guides and running into the cylinders. I scooped a bucket full of sludge off the heads and under the intake manifold. Afterwards it didn't smoke any more.

 

AutoRX is safe because it's not a solvent. It cleans slowly so the sludge doesn't break loose and plug anything up.

 

The Oil system ( - Downstream from filter involves completely CLOSED galleys, bore holes in the crankshaft to mains and rod bearing throws / heads / cams / phasers / chain tensioners, etc in a _SEALED_ system operating under high heat and high pressure (40-70 lbs under most 'driving' conditions). There is NO way sludge can ENTER this closed system against the ambient pressure under which it operates. There is little to NO way way 'sludge' or 'crud' can build up or develop INSIDE this closed galley system beyond the slight discoloration type oxidation that occurs when the oil drains down and the engine cools repeatedly. There is no perceptible buildup of this material from the splash system on the cylinder walls below oil rings. However this oxidation buildup DOES present a perceptible change in the friction efficiency to VVT solenoid valves, Phasers, Lash-Adjusters, chain Chain tensioner plungers.

Dissolving this dark discoloration _stuff_ inside the _CLOSED GALLEY SYSTEM_ with strong chemical (Krill Oil) does not present a risk of plugging up internal passageways, solenoid screens, lash adjuster plungers or bearing surfaces. ANY crusty or 'slimmy' sludge that has accumulated OUTSIDE THE CLOSED OIL GALLEY SYSTEM, under the valve covers, Front Cover - or milky crap from hot oil mixing with condensate water will make its way back into the oil pan, be picked up by oil pickup tube / oil pump - and captured in the oil filter. It will NEVER make its way into the oil galleys if the oil filter is a quality one and does its job.

I run one quart of Krill Oil solvent (Or B12 Chemtool or Motor Mechanic flush) in the engine for the last 40 - 50 miles at the end of the day immediately before oil changes. Let it soak in there over night, and next morning warm her up idling 15 minutes, drain the oil and put in new oil / filter. At 240,000 miles she has 25-27 lbs idle OIL pressure totally hot (205º EOT), 155-175 lb compression across all eight and quiet as a mouse lifters / phasers (25K miles after timing & chain job).

The video presents an interesting 'dance' and 'gyration', but You decide.