Fuel Filter Replacement

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Old Jan 5, 2000 | 10:49 AM
  #1  
Bob Pringle's Avatar
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From: Ormond Beach, FL USA
Post Fuel Filter Replacement

I tried (and failed) to replace the fuel filter on my recently-purchased '93 F150. I have the tool to release the garter springs in the fuel line connectors but the connectors absolutely refused to budge from the filter tubes. Is there a trick, short of brute force, for getting these connectors to release? BTW, that's a neat trick that Ford pulled on us, putting the filter between the fuel tank and the frame rail. I guess they could have put it on top of the tank; it would be only slightly less accessible.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Regards,
Bob P.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2000 | 11:52 AM
  #2  
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From: Frisco, TX USA
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I'm having the same problem on my recently purchased 94 F150. Don't you like how all that road crap drops in your mouth while you're yankin' on the filter? I know, just shut your mouth, but how can you cuss with your mouth closed? What filter did you buy? I bought one from Auto Zone and it says on the box to replace it at 10,000 miles. For this amount of trouble the filter better last longer than that.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2000 | 03:00 PM
  #3  
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From: INDIANA,.....USA " Where more than Corn grows in Indiana"!!!
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Insect2, Don`t do that you will have a real much bigger problem if you do that!!!!!!The lines are under more pressure the hose clamps will not work very long at all. what year is your truck??Even with the right tools it takes alittle time to get it loose. Be real careful use a towel around the filter to hold on to it.Take loose the clamp in the frame turn the fiulter with your hand spray each end with WD40 to loosen the road junk out, press the line tools in one at a time each end. It will free the free when it pops alittle. Make sure you have removed the pressure from the gas lines before you do anything. I hope this helps you.

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Old Jan 5, 2000 | 08:37 PM
  #4  
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From: Jonnstown, PA 15904
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That's true! Don't make a bad situation worse.

I have a 94 F-150 and recently replaced my fuel filter.

I didn't have the tools to do it and I was too lazy to go out and buy one, so I...

1. Cut the filter at both ends with a hack saw...leaving a nub sticking out of each fuel line.

2. Found a 1/4-inch drive, deep-well socket that fit into the fuel-line/fuel-filter connection (for lack of a better term).

3. Pushed it all the way up in there to disengage the spring.

4. Slid a small "hooked" rod up the center of the socket and fuel line. (The rod was a metal clothes hanger and I took a pair of vise grips and bent a very SMALL hook on the end.)

5. Then gently pulled the fuel filter nub out of the fuel-line connector.

Sounds complicated but it worked! I don't recommend it if you drink while working or are impatient.

Also, I forget exactly what size of socket it was, but it'll be insignificantly larger in diameter than the fuel line tool. Also, the internal diameter of the socket must fit over fuel filter fitting. (I'm getting tongue tied!)

(If you have doubts...Grab your 1/4-inch deepwells and find the one that slides over the end of the NEW fuel filter. Then compare the outside diameter of the socket to diameter of the fuel line tool. It should be a damn-close perfect match! PS - I was using Craftsman deepwells.)

Believe it, try it, it works!!!

[This message has been edited by Reefus (edited 01-05-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Reefus (edited 01-05-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Reefus (edited 01-05-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Reefus (edited 01-05-2000).]
 
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Old Jan 5, 2000 | 09:30 PM
  #5  
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From: Waltham Ma.
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Make sure you release the presure in the fuel line first. There should be a relief valve on the fuel rail on your engine. It will look like a bicycle shraider valve.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2000 | 09:50 PM
  #6  
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From: MO, USA
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Yes, and remove the gas cap too! The first time I did it was pretty ugly! Now I consider myself a pro. I take the bracket off the frame rail so I can get a better grip on it then just yank! Seems to work for me but I don't know how the pre 97's are setup.

Good luck!

------------------
'97 F150 Lariat, Flareside, white/sliver, SC, ORP, 5.4 (FQR 8/99) running Mobil 1
Mods: 305/70/16 GY ATS, AR Baja wheels, dual exhaust, Smittybilt Nerf Bars, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, K&N Filter, Carbon Fiber Bug Gaurd and rigged the fog lights too.

 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 12:37 AM
  #7  
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From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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I was wondering about replacing the fuel filter myself and how to get that connector off. Why cant I just cut the line to the filter and remove those two special clamps and reinstall the filter using two small screw hose clamps and tighten them up and replace the filter in the holder clamp under the frame. Would this work ok? Just get rid of those hard to work clamps.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 09:20 AM
  #8  
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From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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Hey guys - thanks for the information. I guess I will stick to the proper method of replacing the filter.

I have a 96 F-150 I-6. Really great truck for me.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2000 | 02:13 PM
  #9  
F150 on the Shore's Avatar
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From: Easton, MD USA
Red face

I also tried to replace the filter with out getting assistence from a Chilton manual.....It costs $381 to replace the gas lines when I broke the retainer clamps.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2000 | 09:44 PM
  #10  
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From: INDIANA,.....USA " Where more than Corn grows in Indiana"!!!
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You may want to buy a Haynes Manual instead, they show more & tell bettere ways to work on your truck. I love it , it helps alot!!!!!.... Lariat1

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Red/Silver LARIAT, 3Dr.SC,Flareside 4x4 ORP,Tow Pack.,Graphite Interior,60/40 Bench Seat W/Power Driver Seat,6 Disc Changer & Cass player,Tilt Wheel, Crus. Control,AC,Rear Sliding Glass,Power Windows & Door Locks,A.R.E Fg. Bedcover,Zie-Bart Total Paint & Under Coating Protection W/Sound Deadener ,3.55LS,4.6L,Auto,Spiltfire Platinum 3 Sparkplugs,New Motorcraft Drive Belt,K&N Airfilter W/Mod.Factory Airbox,Tornado Air Man.,WMS Velocity Tube,Custom Dual Exhaust W/20`` Chrome Tips,AVS Window Shades & Door Sills & Tail Lite Slots,GTS Carbon Fiber Headlite Covers,FORD 2-Piece Bra, Tinted Windows, Pendaliner Tailgate(Inner)Cover,Ford Security System W/Motion Alarm,Fog Lights, Foglites Works W/Brites On, FORD #1 TRUCK Under Glass On Front Bumper,Custom Ford Oval Red Decals,A/TS Goodyear Tires,Perfomance Fiction Carbon Metallic Disc Brake Pads, Owens Fg. Step Boards,55 Watt (Replacement) Backup Lites,Pilot 55 Watt Back up Lites On Hitch Under Truck. This is LARIAT 1... IN The Great State Of Indiana..........http://hometown.aol.com/terrylariat1...page/auto.html

 
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