Hey guys,

So my 2008 f-150 5.4 3v has 180,000km on it. Runs mint.

Two weeks ago, coil pack went on #5 so it was replaced. No biggy.

four weeks ago, replaced the following
Both upper and lower ball joints, and control arms
front left IWE and bearing.
Vacumm solenoid with the new style with cap.

Now the front right IWE apparently needs to be replaced, hub and bearing, but aside from that, just laying all the facts.

now today, took it there for oil change, drive about 20 km to town, no issues, smooth, very happy. Then at the mall parking lot, moving 5km/h and KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK, instantly i think ##$& no oil...

Pop the hood, oil is on the dip, no visible leaks from drain or filter. Okay, start truck, no knock. Waited ten minutes, let idle, no knock.

Drive about another 5 km, slow down at light, KNOCK KNOCK. shut truck off and pulled over.. Started up again, no knock.

Drove home and no further issues.

Is this related to oil pressure and perhaps a filter not on tight, is this related to another coil going. or is this the feared phasers.. i have very slight tick tick, no horse power loss and when the ticking its only at idle no issues at all with ticking when at higher speeds. no engine light (*yet*)..

I have put nearly 3000$ CDN in this truck between the 4x4, suspension and now the motor.

I drive 50km each way to work a day, doing 110km/h on highway. never accelerate over 3000 rpm, i baby the truck.

I need your guys help, im going to argue with the shop tomorrow that this is related, but i could use some tips.

thanks for your time.

 

What brand filter and what weight oil?

 

Not sure the filter and im hoping they did the 5w20.. not sure, can only go by what they told me.

if they put the wrong oil in, could that cause it?

 

If it is a aftermarket oil filter they can restrict oil flow. The ford 3v engines seem to be sensitive to improper oil flow and pressure. I would at least remove that filter and have a motorcraft on installed and then send the removed one off to get cut apart to see if abnormally high particulates or debris is present.
Maybe do the same with a oil sample

I would ask for a mechanical oil pressure test at full operational temp and on idle.

I doubt the lube shop did anything wrong....does the oil filter look new?

I would sooner think that this is coincidence and it is a phaser and tensioner issue...maybe not?

If it turns out to be a phaser and tensioner issue...I would make sure that a new oil pump with a stiffer back plate is installed

 

I would take a sample of the oil that they put in and send it to a PROFESSIONAL oil test lab. Get a reliable witness or two to watch you collect the sample and to watch you send it to the lab. Get reliable and trustworthy witnesses, you may need their testimony later. Might want to pull the filter and send it and have it tested too. Oh, and I would collect the oil in new, UNUSED container so that there can be no later claim of contamination.

 

So I took it back today, they said nothing could be found wrong, but they put a better filter and re did the oil again.

Guess when I pick it up later ill find out. I surely hope it was just a bad filter

 

"Better" filter? Insist on Motorcraft and 5w20 oil.

 

^^^^^ ditto^^^^ what he said

 

Completely agree but FWIW the quickie oil change places in my area don't carry Motorcraft filter or oil. In fact, they don't even carry any 5-20 oil so I'm wondering what they actually put in the OP's truck.

 

Motorcraft oil and filter isn't mandatory, but it needs to be a quality name brand 5w20 and a filter at least the quality of a Motorcraft - such as a premium Wix or Purolator. House brand oil filters are generally a no-no.

 

The viscosity of the oil is semi-irrelevant. For your YM engine, Ford recommended the 15w-40 oils to quieten the valve train on some of the engines. Considering your mileage, I'd be moving up to a 10w-30 oil providing your cold startups are not below minus 25C. The 10w oils are far more stable than the 5w-30 or 5w-40 oils. The test temp for the 10w is minus 25C whereas the 5w oils are tested at minus 30C, so there's not much difference here and some of the 10w oils, while not tested colder, will actually flow better than some of the 5w oils at colder temps. The slightly thicker oil, the 10w-30, will push more oil to the rings. At high mileage, the lower bearings are worn and a lot of the oil is leaking out. The bearing caps are what sprays oil on the rings/cylinder walls. As the bearings wear, less oil is being pumped to the rings and it's a downhill spiral from there. You can restore some of the oil using a thicker viscosity. At 250,000 kilometers, I'd suggest moving up again to the 15w-40 oils to maximize engine life. Of the 10w-30 oils I would use, Pennzoil yellow bottle or Quaker State Durability.

Oil filters are changing all of the time. The best oil filter out there for your engine today, the 5.4, would be the Purolator Pure One. Great efficiency, great filtration, great flow characteristics. It beats just about any of the OTC filters you buy today. Can't find one, the Motorcraft is also a great filter.

 

Thanks for all your great replies, much appreciated.

Verdict.
So far, after 7 random drives of about 10 - 60 km each, i have yet to experience any of the same noises I was experiencing.

Moving to 10w-30 from the current may be my next step while I save for the phaser job. Right now the phaser knock is very minimal compared to many watched youtube videos of others that just sound insane.

I guess they must of used a really crappy filter that reduced oil pressure causing the knock. thats the only thing i can think of. Thanks Labnerd for your advice.

 

one last question, i've added a pic of my oil gauge. cant remember if always been like this, but its bit past the half way. is that normal?

 

I would not count on the dash oil pressure display...it is a glorified idiot light. It requires only minimal pressure (like 7 psi) to set above the low limit. Where the needle point from there is not very accurate.

DID they test the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, as recommended???

Off hand your oil pressure display look normal.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the oil change shop put thicker oil in it.