Hello

2005 expedition limited 5.4 triton

The other day driving along I noticed a lack of power accelerating, cel
Came on. Yesterday driving , came to stop sign starting idling rough then went dead. Been idling rough ever since. Codes p0352, 355,366,367,368.

Took it to ford in January for tuneup and replaced all the plugs, is it possible for 6 of 8 coil packs to go at once?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you

 

UPDATE

I installed new coil packs and the problem remains, however, the codes have cleared. I then got the P0171 code and changed bank 1 VCT, no change. Now all the codes are gone and running/idling even worse than before.

Any suggestions before I take to Ford?
Thank you

 

???? You say "all the codes are gone". I'm assuming that means you cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet? I'd wait for the first DTC before taking it to anyone. You've changed plugs and COPS. Even if they were failing - the result should be opposite P0171. Meanwhile you might try to eliminate the things that can result in a P0171. They can definitely result in a sloppy idle. For now address/eliminate the easier ones of those possibilities. (Stuck closed / Sticky Closed or dirty injector - run some Techtron through it) (Vacuum leak on bank 1 from dislocated vacuum line / injector "0"ring / intake manifold gasket / cracked intake manifold / etc. etc. - just try to eliminate ANY source of un-metered air getting into the bank 1 combustion process)

 

Thank you for your reply!!

After replacing the above parts, the codes cleared and the P0171 remains. It idles so rough , in gear will stall out.

The day this occurred , it was running fine, went to get onto the interstate there was a slight hesitation...drove fine the rest of the day. Next day my wife goes down the road, stops at a stop sign....idles rough goes dead. Been doing that ever since.

I cant even take it to the shop , will have to tow it. I have looked at obvious vacuum leaks but after reading , I need to spend more time tracing the lines to be sure.

I will run the techron through it as suggested. How do I go about testing the manifold, etc Spray wd40 or something while the engine is running? What about the fuel filter? Could that cause all of these problems?

 

Dealing with these later model vehicles is a real challenge without some more specialized tools than those of days gone by. Lots of things are going on that we cant see, hear, touch or feel in these computer controlled contraptions. You really need an OBDII scanner that can display live data to do a conclusive vacuum leak test.
ie: My preferred method is to spray starting fluid or a volatile carb cleaner around While monitoring a graph display of O2 Sensor outputs, or short term fuel trims. If you hit even the _most minute_ leak, those signals will instantly go CRAZY. But most times, the computer is fast enough to compensate for it that you will never notice the slightest change in idle. (That's the beauty - and disadvantage - of the positive feedback of the onboard computer).


Fuel Filter? I sorta doubt it would be effecting idle instead of other running conditions. But it's inexpensive, simple to do, and good normal maintenance. I'd eliminate that right away.


Also. After you making numerous parts changes, I like to do a BATTERY DISCONNECT RESET, then a RELEARN procedure to get rid of old parameter adjustment tables from the PCM and force it to recalibrate things under the new parts conditions.


Sometimes, that alone will clear up crazy symptoms.

 

Using an unlit propane torch is a lot better than spraying fluid around the engine that can cause problems with rubber parts.

 

VERY good point. I can see that would give the very same results with no detrimental effect on parts - and probably would probably evaporate and become a benign fire risk much quicker.

 

Thanks for the replies. Couldn't find any issues, broke down and drove it to FORD. It would almost stall, if not stall when I stopped. However, they call be back a while ago and tell me cylinder #8 has no compression and the timing is off????

Their suggestion is new engine at almost $8k. WOW!!! How can it need a new engine and I can still drive it, somewhat? Is it that bad? I am picking it up and getting a second opinion.

Will update later this week

 

I saw this post before I left for vacation...and I kinda could see where it was heading...I was going to guess compression issue and new engine advised...seems to happen too often...

About a year and a half ago my engine was diagnosed as having low compression on 6,7 & 8...I have just driven it...it idles a little rough...

I started running 5w-30 in it after the diagnosis, then went to 10w-30 lately...wth...cant hurt it...just got back from a 1k mile trip with my scout troop...truck got 13.8 mpg fully loaded down...

I say try heavier oil and drive the snot out of it...just hope it doesn't leave you or your loved ones stranded!