2004 f150 HELP!!!!
#1
2004 f150 HELP!!!!
2004 f150 lariat 4x4 with 213,000 miles
I've replaced timing chain, tensioner, guides, vct selenoids, cleaned pick-up tube screen, replaced oil pan gasket, and oil pressure sending unit. Timing chain guide was broken into pieces and all chewed up oil pickup tube was clogged with guide pieces and metal shavings from chain slapping vover. Truck will not start now and says no oil pressure I am stumped on what to do now other than oil pump and phasers but from the hours and hours of reading through all of this it seems as oil pump is not likely to be faulty. Do i just need to get new motor or is there still hope.
Last edited by JackandJanet; 07-29-2015 at 09:19 AM.
The following users liked this post:
#2
#3
After typing two dif times one on my phone and then on pc long replys explaining things and the it asking me to sign in again and losing the hours worth of text im gonna keep it short.
I havnt checked for spark. Like an idiot i drained oil and dropped pan again b/c for some reason i thought maybe i forgot to tighten the screws for the pick up and it had came out of pump. It was about 5 am when i got screen cleaned and tube put back so i went to bed. The next day i hurried and put together so i could go ride. So i thought that was the reason for the no oil pressure, whiiiich was not the case.
I changed timing chains tensioners guides and sending unit first. A friend set timing for me, he is a mechanic and assured me it was correct. Truck ran but when i slowed down it would say no oil pressure soon as i pull in my driveway from going around block it died and wouldnt start back up. So i read for hours decided i neeeded to replace vct solenoids and drop pan and clean pic up tube. The only thing i unplugged since the last time it ran has been the vct connectors and the oil level sensor on side of pan.
I am going to go put oil pan back remove oil filter and turn over to see if its pumping oil, i will look over connections on everything and check spark.
I havnt checked for spark. Like an idiot i drained oil and dropped pan again b/c for some reason i thought maybe i forgot to tighten the screws for the pick up and it had came out of pump. It was about 5 am when i got screen cleaned and tube put back so i went to bed. The next day i hurried and put together so i could go ride. So i thought that was the reason for the no oil pressure, whiiiich was not the case.
I changed timing chains tensioners guides and sending unit first. A friend set timing for me, he is a mechanic and assured me it was correct. Truck ran but when i slowed down it would say no oil pressure soon as i pull in my driveway from going around block it died and wouldnt start back up. So i read for hours decided i neeeded to replace vct solenoids and drop pan and clean pic up tube. The only thing i unplugged since the last time it ran has been the vct connectors and the oil level sensor on side of pan.
I am going to go put oil pan back remove oil filter and turn over to see if its pumping oil, i will look over connections on everything and check spark.
#4
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
Posts: 7,247
Likes: 0
Received 104 Likes
on
97 Posts
After typing two dif times one on my phone and then on pc long replys explaining things and the it asking me to sign in again and losing the hours worth of text im gonna keep it short.
#5
Thanks MSTASZEW for these instructions!!! Between this and my forthcoming accumulator/orifice tube replacements I am hoping to gimp my F150 along for at least another year.
I just used this on my 5.4L 2002 F150 Lariat for the heater core & blend door and it worked out pretty well...the only hangup I had was trying to access/remove the old blend door actuator. It isn't located within the dash, and must be accessed from underneath everything. I tried following the Ford workshop manual's instructions, but even after (finally) removing both screws on the ducting the is sandwiched between the actuator and the floor, I was still unable to get the ducting free so I could get to the actuator's screws to replace it.
Fortunately, the actuator seemed to be working ok before the heater core &*#! the bed, and I was only trying to replace it in conjunction with everything else.
I just used this on my 5.4L 2002 F150 Lariat for the heater core & blend door and it worked out pretty well...the only hangup I had was trying to access/remove the old blend door actuator. It isn't located within the dash, and must be accessed from underneath everything. I tried following the Ford workshop manual's instructions, but even after (finally) removing both screws on the ducting the is sandwiched between the actuator and the floor, I was still unable to get the ducting free so I could get to the actuator's screws to replace it.
Fortunately, the actuator seemed to be working ok before the heater core &*#! the bed, and I was only trying to replace it in conjunction with everything else.
#6
Josh04.150- so wish I could help you brother.. but I'm in a similar situation.. please let me know if you've tackle the issue.. but please if you're engine shut off and would not start back up,. Attempt to rotate crankshaft using a rachet/etc.. turn clockwise.. if it turns you still have light at the end of this tunnel.. if it don't (like mine now).. it's off'ly dark! Lol.. but I did timing job. Added new oil pump (mellings 340HV) previously found top passenger side chain guide in a million of pieces.. cleaned it all out the best I could all the was to the pan.. I even took off the pickup tube.. and sprayed brake parts cleaner down it several times,. My suspicion with the start of my issues were either the new o-ring was pinched and not seating correctly at the flange of my oil pump causing throfting, or the oil pickup tube itself is now or had became more or less closed/restricted.. but yeah,. I'm up ****s Creek.. I'm going to remove all 8 plugs.. and attempt to roll over by hand.. but before doing so,. I'll dump oil down the spark plugs holes, to lubricate (hopefully free up) seized positions or rod bearings.. I will try to rotate counter clockwise first just a bit.. to see if I can free up the engine (also allow the oil I just dumped into the cylinder to hopefully disperse better throughout the cylinder to save what I can in this beast of a motor).. please let me know how everything is going for you,. And possibly try some the things I've mentioned here? Hopefully I've been more of a help to ya then a irritatinly long subject! Lol best of luck guy!
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Josh04.150- so wish I could help you brother.. but I'm in a similar situation.. please let me know if you've tackle the issue.. but please if you're engine shut off and would not start back up,. Attempt to rotate crankshaft using a rachet/etc.. turn clockwise.. if it turns you still have light at the end of this tunnel.. if it don't (like mine now).. it's off'ly dark! Lol.. but I did timing job. Added new oil pump (mellings 340HV) previously found top passenger side chain guide in a million of pieces.. cleaned it all out the best I could all the was to the pan.. I even took off the pickup tube.. and sprayed brake parts cleaner down it several times,. My suspicion with the start of my issues were either the new o-ring was pinched and not seating correctly at the flange of my oil pump causing throfting, or the oil pickup tube itself is now or had became more or less closed/restricted.. but yeah,. I'm up ****s Creek.. I'm going to remove all 8 plugs.. and attempt to roll over by hand.. but before doing so,. I'll dump oil down the spark plugs holes, to lubricate (hopefully free up) seized positions or rod bearings.. I will try to rotate counter clockwise first just a bit.. to see if I can free up the engine (also allow the oil I just dumped into the cylinder to hopefully disperse better throughout the cylinder to save what I can in this beast of a motor).. please let me know how everything is going for you,. And possibly try some the things I've mentioned here? Hopefully I've been more of a help to ya then a irritatinly long subject! Lol best of luck guy!
#9
Josh04.150- so wish I could help you brother.. but I'm in a similar situation.. please let me know if you've tackle the issue.. but please if you're engine shut off and would not start back up,. Attempt to rotate crankshaft using a rachet/etc.. turn clockwise.. if it turns you still have light at the end of this tunnel.. if it don't (like mine now).. it's off'ly dark! Lol.. but I did timing job. Added new oil pump (mellings 340HV) previously found top passenger side chain guide in a million of pieces.. cleaned it all out the best I could all the was to the pan.. I even took off the pickup tube.. and sprayed brake parts cleaner down it several times,. My suspicion with the start of my issues were either the new o-ring was pinched and not seating correctly at the flange of my oil pump causing throfting, or the oil pickup tube itself is now or had became more or less closed/restricted.. but yeah,. I'm up ****s Creek.. I'm going to remove all 8 plugs.. and attempt to roll over by hand.. but before doing so,. I'll dump oil down the spark plugs holes, to lubricate (hopefully free up) seized positions or rod bearings.. I will try to rotate counter clockwise first just a bit.. to see if I can free up the engine (also allow the oil I just dumped into the cylinder to hopefully disperse better throughout the cylinder to save what I can in this beast of a motor).. please let me know how everything is going for you,. And possibly try some the things I've mentioned here? Hopefully I've been more of a help to ya then a irritatinly long subject! Lol best of luck guy!
#10