I also change it at every 3000 miles, religious.

And PaulT, to answer your question:
Look at the 8th character in your VIN. A 6 means Windsor, a W means Romeo.



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-cm

 

I change my own cars and trucks at 3000 but I supervise a state garage and the state requires a 5000 mile change they also use the elcheapo Fram filters the oil is NAPA 10w40 which is bottled for NAPA by Valvoline or Ashland Oil Company which both are the same. I have Dodge vans that come to the shop which have over 165,00 miles on them and are 95's which have had no oil related engine problems even using the Fram filters (their anti-drainback valve is worthless).

I'm thru rantin!

98 Ranger XLT 4x2

 

Oil change intervals of later model vehicles can easily be moved back to 5000 miles. The 3000 mile interval was established when a number of cars on the road still used leaded gasoline and had engine clearances that needed heavy 10w/40 and up oils to compensate. These engines also did great if they got 75,000 or 80,000 miles on them before major repairs.
However, engines nowadays run much cleaner (computer controlled),unleaded higher octane gas, more precise engines and components, fuel inj., better ignition systems and a number of other improvements over older type engines. I used to have a '79 ford 302cid, my oil needed changing at 3000 miles, you could visually see this by color. My '97 4.6 at 3000 is still relatively gold in color. This simply tells me it's a much cleaner engine and system than older vehicles. Plus the oils are more advanced with all the additives and viscosity improvers. If any of you want the very best synthetic you would probably have to go to a race shop or team to be able to get it, but it's Royal Purple. Royal Purple is very expensive, probably too expensive to justify, but it is by far and away the best lubricant in the world. If you're running a synthetic lubricant in you car and changing it before 10,000 miles you wasting your money. These oils were designed to run much longer between intervals without breaking down, that is there major advantage along with cold flow properties and their viscosity index. As far as anti-wear there's not a considerable difference. When the oil producers seen that people would buy synthetics they sort of dropped the (longer interval) pitch, thus to sell more oil. If you change your filter at 5000 miles and add a quart back to it, drive it about a mile down the road and back, then look at the oil against unused oil, you will not see any difference. Synthetic oils so not break down until 20,000 miles or more. As far as that goes mineral (conventional oils) don't break down until 12,000 to 15,000 they just can't stay as clean as synthetics. So don't worry about protection between oil changes, worry about contamination. Contamination can come from many different sources, just to mention a few wear material from internal parts (minimal), moisture from engine temp. variances (the pcv can't eliminate all of it), material from the filter, new oil (yes, there is contaminated material in new oil) I would suggest using a funnel with a 50 micron filter, takes a little longer to fill the oil but wait 'till you see the screen after 6 quarts, airborne (dust) particles that get past you breather, carbon bypassing piston rings, gasoline contaminants, and this is just the more common ones. There are some I can't think of right now and some I'm sure I don't know about, but ya'll can ease up on the protection factor and worry more about filtering the lube. One more thing, Fram filters have 50% to 70% less filtering properties than than Wix, Motorcraft, Duetsch, and Baldwin Think about the filters fella's.

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'97 Ford SC 4X4 XLT Off Road pkg., 4.6,A/OD, 3:55, premium sound w/CD chg, Black clct,towing pkg., hvy duty elec. pkg., Bridestone dueler AT's, line X, Flowmaster true duals, chip, K&N air filter, smittybilt stainless nerf bars

 

I guess from what Nickster posted if you don't operate your vehicle in a cold climate and you change your oil every 3-5000 miles there is very little benefit from synthetic oil changes. I live in Florida so cold climate is out, due to global Warming. We have not had a normal winter in 5 years. I'm undecided about the "little benefit" but today's conventional oils don't break down like they did in the 70's and 80's.

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99 F150 XLT Supercab Towing Package 5.4L Auto Two Tone Med Toreador Red/ Silver Power windows, locks, mirrors, driver's seat. Cruise, tilt wheel Alloys, Michelins, ARE topper Superchip / 2000 Chevy Silverado Ext cab 5.3, auto, Tow package, tilt, cruise, power windows,locks,side mirrors, alloy wheels.

 

Steve,

What's more important to me is that there is a major warranty issue with 10,000 mile oil changes with Ford. We ALL paid for the 36mo/36,000 mile bumper-to-bumper when we paid for a new truck and I am going to get every nickel out of it that I am entitled to.

I have said this before on this forum ... When your warranty is up eveyone can do what they want.

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Dunbarton "The Middle Aged Kid" '99 XLT SC SB 4x2 4.6 auto 3.55 ls The occasional Z-71 Eater! Wedgewood & Denim, SuperChipped, Airaid FIPK, Rhino Liner, Mobil 1. Man, I got it all! (New Jersey)

 

Synthetic doesn't have High Temperature Protection????
AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil protects in high temperatures better than do the high-viscosity conventional
and synthetic oils tested (see chart). Even after extended service in the engine, Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
maintains its ability to protect in high temperatures.

AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil is highly resistant to volatility. For example, in heat that causes conventional
motor oils to lose as much as 25 percent of their mass, AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil loses less than ten
percent.

Heat Stability???

AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil's resistance to volatility keeps oil consumption extremely low and, more
importantly, keeps the engine thoroughly lubricated and protected. Its resistance to volatility also helps keep fuel efficiency high
and emissions low.

Check out Flash point, and Fire point.
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
11.1
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
57.9
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
188
Cold Crank Simulator Apparent Viscosity @ -30° C, cP (ASTM D-2602)
3107
Borderline Pumping Temperature °C (°F) (ASTM D3829)
-40 (-40)
Pour Point, °C [°F] (ASTM D92)
<-60 [<-76]
Flash Point, °C [°F] (ASTM D92)
238 [460]
Fire Point, °C [°F] (ASTM D92)
254 [489]
Noack Volatility (DIN 51581) 250° C for 1 hour, % weight loss
9.5
High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity cP, X° C, X s-1 (ASTM D4683)
3.5
Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM D4172: 40 kgf, 150° C, 1800 rpm, 1 hr) Scar diameter, mm
0.39
Total Base Number

I think "any" total synthetic will blow away conventional oil in heat and cold!!
http://amsoil.com/products/tso.html



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Lube-Direct

 

Steveg, I understand and agree with you on the sampling issue, however unlike a very few of us most people don't have the facilities or technical assurance to be able to have their oil sampled. Thus, the reason I mentioned changing the filter@5000 miles and replacing a quart. This would remove the old impregnated and saturated filter that has lost alot of it's filtering ability and replace it with a fresh filter to remove suspended contaminants.
Dunbarton,
I fully understand the warranty concern and agree with you. But, we also all know very well that any slight deviation from manufacturers suggested practices that they can even remotely associate with your warranty claim - we know - they'll try to put the blame on you induvidually. But, the only way that they can do this is by the information that you give them, so we all know what has to be done in that case. You've got to look out for #1 - they do!
msparks,
I see you like amsoil, I don't know much about the lube. The specs you posted are pretty good, but you may want to look at Mobil 1 specs not much difference and even better in few categories. But, if you want the very best- look up Royal Purple synthetic. Is amsoil an Olefin Polymer derivative or Alkyl Aromatic, or Esters of Di-basic Acids, or Neopentyl Poly Esters, or Poly-Alkaline Glycol, or Phosphate Ester, or Silicone or Silicone Esters, or FlouroCarbons or maybe Poly-Phenol Esther, which one? I'll let you in on something- all synthetics-ALL- are derived from a petrochemical base repeat ALL!!! These are all of the major materials that synthetic lubricants are produced from and thier all originated in some way in Yes an Oil Refinery and Petrochemical processing facilities. So they're not made by some dude in a white coat in some lab somewhere like we see portrayed, nope, they're produce just like the conventional mineral oils are except they're better, what's better? We as americans haven't been having losing our equipment (engines, motors, etc.) to poor lubricants for all these years have we, not nearly as often as we are let to believe. Synthetics separate themselves in extreme operating conditions whether it be hot or cold, and if you're not operating in those conditions, it's probably not pheasable to use them.

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'97 Ford SC 4X4 XLT Off Road pkg., 4.6,A/OD, 3:55, premium sound w/CD chg, Black clct,towing pkg., hvy duty elec. pkg., Bridestone dueler AT's, line X, Flowmaster true duals, chip, K&N air filter, smittybilt stainless nerf bars

 

nickster what you forgot to say about extended drain intervals is that the oil must be sampled , ie meaning a sample taken and then sent to a lab and have it checked for metals, coolant, and other such things, we send in oil here for sample's on the diesel ( i am a diesel mechanic) if you run your vehicle 10,000 miles before sampling , you are in for a suprise, that is why they don't push the extended milage. not mention amount of oil that is held in crankcase is a factor in extended drains as well,

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2000 f150 4x4 offroad pkg, 5.4 xlt

 

Mobil 1 and AMSOIL are both PAO's, I have heard, but can't conferm they are the same basestock. The difference is in the additive package, AMSOIL uses a better additive package that will last longer, so they are able to go 35,000 miles or one year between changes.

Amsoil has a synthetic oil out called XL-7500 which has a commercial additive package that is similar to Mob1 and is only rated for 7,500 miles. The are targeting it for quick-lubes, and those who don't feel comfortable with going 35,000 miles or once a year. It is a little cheaper than the top syn.

As far as conventional oils go- my step dad has a Ford Ranger with 80,000 and he has only changed the oil once. He says every once in a while he has to add a little bit. So I guess dino oil does its job for the most part, but it is a fact that Synthetic oil is superior in all aspects.
Superior::

1. Stability, (doesnt evaporate, or cook off)
2. Wear Protection,(as per wear scar test)
3. Fluidity (Cold weather flow)
4. Overall economy (due to less friction)
5. Oxidation Resistance (varnish and deposits)
6. Operating temperature range
7. Fuel Mileage (due to less friction, and cooler operating temps, and less sludge,and oxidation which robbs power)

I am not toting just amsoil, but its just what I use and sell and I think it is more economical than Mob1 because of the Extended Drain interval.

You will find that there are a lot of users of Mob1 which is a great oil too. I think they can vouch for some of these benifits.
Michael Sparks

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Lube-Direct

 

Hey guys, right now I am running Amsoil in my engine. It is the AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil. So far I have put 4000 miles on it, and right now it is clear as the first time I put it in. As before I was putting Castrol 5w-30 and at 3000 miles it would already be very dark brown or black. Also I notice the very first time I put it in my engine it was alittle quieter and my gas mileage increase by .5 mpg. Plus I know that the oil is circulating better on startup since it is so low weight. And also you do not have to change the oil until every 35000 miles and change their special oil filter every 12,500 miles. I got two gallons of AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil and the oil filter for around 70.00 bucks which saves money in the long run. Just thought I would let you guys know.
98 Nascar Edition

homepage http://www.freeyellow.com/members8/jackhel/index.html

POWERDYNE SUPERCHARGER, SUPERCHIPless for now, K&N FILTER, SHIFT KIT, DYNOMAX ULTRA FLOW EXHAUST, GUTTED MAF, 4.10 REAR END GEARS, XTRA BRITE HALOGEN LITES, AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic Motor Oil , AND SOME OTHER STUFF I CAN'T REMEMBER

 

Interesting. The Ford manual says its alright to use synthetics as long as they are "certified" BUT you MUST still follow the service guide change interval. No ifs, ands or buts about it guys. You must change every 3 or 5 K. for warranty. After that your on your own. I have an extended so not me.

 

I am not worried about it, mine's already 3000 past anyways. And the other reason I am putting my trust in it is because a very good friend of my family that goes to my church has been selling their products for over 20 years. He has put their products in his cars and they have lasted virtually forever.


98 Nascar Edition


homepage http://www.freeyellow.com/members8/jackhel/index.html

POWERDYNE SUPERCHARGER, SUPERCHIPless for now, K&N FILTER, SHIFT KIT, DYNOMAX ULTRA FLOW EXHAUST, GUTTED MAF, 4.10 REAR END GEARS, XTRA BRITE HALOGEN LITES, AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic Motor Oil , AND SOME OTHER STUFF I CAN'T REMEMBER

 

I go 3 month or 3000 religiously. Don't want to take any chances with my baby.

 

Mike Sparks,

I hear what you are saying about 35,000 mile oil changes and have never heard anything detrimental about Amsoil, Redline, etc., but it would take me 4 1/2 years to put 35,000 miles on my truck.

Does the oil change interval still hold true? If I was a high mileage driver I would consider Amsoil, Redline, or Royal Purple but I'm not.

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Dunbarton "The Middle Aged Kid" '99 XLT SC SB 4x2 4.6 auto 3.55 ls The occasional Z-71 Eater! Wedgewood & Denim, SuperChipped, Airaid FIPK, Rhino Liner, Mobil 1. Man, I got it all! (New Jersey)

 

cphilip,
A manufacture cannot void your warranty because you use an aftermarket product! If your truck has mechanical failure due to defective product or workmanship they must repair your vehicle. The dealer or representative will examine the failed or malfunctioning part to determine the cause of failure or malfunction. If an indisputable cause and effect relationship between the failure and the lengh of the oil drain intervals cannot be established, the the length of the oil drain intervals is immaterial to the warranty claim and the claim may not be refused on the basis of extended oil drain intervals. Belive me AMSOIL will back you up on this-As of yet they have never had an engine failure due to there product or recommendations!

Also Amsoil's warranty states that I quote from the product information: "AMSOIL INC. warrants that use of its lubricants will not cause mechanical damage to any mechanically sound equipment when AMSOIL lubricants are used in full compliance with the recommendations of AMSOIL INC"

So you see by using AMSOIL you get two warranty's. I can send a hard copy of the full warranty to anyone who wishes,just send me a self addressed stamped envelop and I will get a copy of their warranty to you. I am working on getting it on my page, but I need a scanner so it will be a while.

Dunbarton,

I know what you mean about the 35,000 I have a 97 and it only has 19,000 on it. It would take me 3-4 years also. I run the regular synthetic 5w-30 that is good for 25,000 or one year. I just change the filter at 6 months then the whole nine yards once a year weather it needs it or not! I guess if I wanted to I could do analysis and extended the drain time indefinatly, but it costs about the same in the long run for me. If I were doing alot of miles I would do the anlysis and extended the interval way past 35,000>>>>.
I think you are fine with the MOB 1 though, It is almost as good especially if you only run it 3-5k. I would like to suggest though running the Amsoil Super Duty Oil filter with the MOB1 you get the Highest capacity of any filter and the Highest efficiency of any filter. Just something to look into.

Regards,
Michael

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