Castrol Syntec is not a Synthetic Oil
I remember the court case involving Mobil/Exxon and Castrol and that was the reason I decided to stay away. When you can get the court to approve a definition of 'fully synthethic' that is contrary to almost everyone's common sense of what it should define, what does it say about the product?
Thanks Labnerd.
This oil thing is constructed out of a lot of old myths, mis information and questionable advertising to the public that has no real way to determine anything about oils.
The 5w20 blend Motorcraft oil is an M2C 930-A spec lube meant for these trucks.
There is no reason to deviate to these other so called superior oils thinking there is some big advantage over the life of ownership of the truck.
If we cannot trust Ford on this one then they are playing with there reputation and I don't think they will do that with so much at stake.
This oil thing is constructed out of a lot of old myths, mis information and questionable advertising to the public that has no real way to determine anything about oils.
The 5w20 blend Motorcraft oil is an M2C 930-A spec lube meant for these trucks.
There is no reason to deviate to these other so called superior oils thinking there is some big advantage over the life of ownership of the truck.
If we cannot trust Ford on this one then they are playing with there reputation and I don't think they will do that with so much at stake.
Bluegrass, I agree. For example look at the turbo diesel powered over the road rigs. Many of them run Shell Rotella T 15W40 dino oil and many get upwards of 500,000k or more between overhauls. Regular maintenance is everything.
I have been using Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic for my F-150 and Castrol for my 92 Eclipse beater car. I have also been putting Castrol in my sisters 03 Cavalier. Next time I will go with Mobil 1 SynBlend so atleast there will be SOME synthetic oil to help out there. Its pretty screwey for Castrol to lie about a product, making you think you are saving some bucks and your engine. Might as well buy walmart brand ehh?
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Thanks Labnerd.
This oil thing is constructed out of a lot of old myths, mis information and questionable advertising to the public that has no real way to determine anything about oils.
The 5w20 blend Motorcraft oil is an M2C 930-A spec lube meant for these trucks.
There is no reason to deviate to these other so called superior oils thinking there is some big advantage over the life of ownership of the truck.
If we cannot trust Ford on this one then they are playing with there reputation and I don't think they will do that with so much at stake.
This oil thing is constructed out of a lot of old myths, mis information and questionable advertising to the public that has no real way to determine anything about oils.
The 5w20 blend Motorcraft oil is an M2C 930-A spec lube meant for these trucks.
There is no reason to deviate to these other so called superior oils thinking there is some big advantage over the life of ownership of the truck.
If we cannot trust Ford on this one then they are playing with there reputation and I don't think they will do that with so much at stake.
Yes I go there a bit.
It's a bit sad what goes on but on this oil thing, is a pretty serious matter not to be up front on Motorcraft oil by the company because there is to much at stake, as a result.
Even the incompetants understand that much/little.
Thanks.
It's a bit sad what goes on but on this oil thing, is a pretty serious matter not to be up front on Motorcraft oil by the company because there is to much at stake, as a result.
Even the incompetants understand that much/little.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by Labnerd
Lets see if I can help straighten some things out for you guys. Castrol Syntec, there are two available for sale in the US. One is in a green bottle and is not bottled here but in Germany. I have only seen it in 0w-30. It is a PAO basestock oil and a darn good one. The other is a mostly Gp III basestock oil and is not quite the strength of the other but a good oil none the less. Don't judge an oil by how quick it turns black. For some engines, that means that it is cleaning better than the previous oil and you are seeing washout. Don't believe that PAO synthetics have more natural cleaning power as they have no more solvency than a regular dino. Also, don't buy into advertising hype. Amsoils 4 ball bearing test has no application in regards to the internals of your engine. They might as well be telling you that it's better because it heats up fast. Makes about as much sense. Also, there is no more lubricity in a PAO synthetic so the "friction tests" are advertising hype or just blatant lies. If you want an oil for extended changes, use an oil built for it like Amsoil, Delvac 1, and Mobil 15,000. If you have arctic conditions where cold starts are below zero, you might want to consider a synthetic. If you are an average driver, you don't need a synthetic and don't buy into the advertising hype that your engine will last longer because it won't. Thermal properties are about the only advantage anymore of a synthetic and that they will carry longer for extended changes. Someone asked about Mobil 5000. We have been seeing far too much of it lately that is grossly out of grade. I'm not sure what is going on over at M/E but their quality has been slipping. If you have the oil analyzed, expect large quantities of sodium to come back with a recommendation to have the cooling system checked. The sodium is an additive, not a coolant leak. Also, you might want know that the normal M1 has been reformulated since the hurricanes. I'm not a fan of the new formulation and only when enough UOAs have been trended will the verdict be in. For a regular dino oil, Havoline has the best formulation today. Tomorrow, I'm sure it will be somebody else as the formulas rarely stay the same for long. If you are using a 930 specked oil, it's pretty darn hard to find a bad one including store brands like Walmart, Auto Zone, etc. The spec doesn't allow it to be out of grade, viscosity, allows fewer deposits, etc. But hey, if you have a favorite and want to run high priced oil- it's your money and your engine, do what makes you comfy. Today, most folks trade long before the engine is due to die.
ps. i ran spell check
All the above said, I have not tried much Castrol, but I guess it would work ok regardless of what's in it.
I found plain old Motorcraft premium synthetic blend at Walmart and Autozone, and it seems to be very good oil. So that's what I have been using. My last couple cars, Windstar, Explorers, etc, have gone over 150k on Carquest and Valvoline plain old oil, so I'm not real concerned with fancy oils.
Anyone have any comments on it?
I found plain old Motorcraft premium synthetic blend at Walmart and Autozone, and it seems to be very good oil. So that's what I have been using. My last couple cars, Windstar, Explorers, etc, have gone over 150k on Carquest and Valvoline plain old oil, so I'm not real concerned with fancy oils.
Anyone have any comments on it?
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Yes I go there a bit.
It's a bit sad what goes on but on this oil thing, is a pretty serious matter not to be up front on Motorcraft oil by the company because there is to much at stake, as a result.
Even the incompetants understand that much/little.
Thanks.
It's a bit sad what goes on but on this oil thing, is a pretty serious matter not to be up front on Motorcraft oil by the company because there is to much at stake, as a result.
Even the incompetants understand that much/little.
Thanks.
Don't worry about the oil, your fine.
I run MC 5w20 and change at 5000 miles.
Tow in summer at nearly 12,000 gross combined weight.
My 4.6 cold temp winter start is absolutly quiet except for the fan air noise at the higher idle until the engine temp come up..
Engine has 60k miles.
I run MC 5w20 and change at 5000 miles.
Tow in summer at nearly 12,000 gross combined weight.
My 4.6 cold temp winter start is absolutly quiet except for the fan air noise at the higher idle until the engine temp come up..
Engine has 60k miles.
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Don't worry about the oil, your fine.
I run MC 5w20 and change at 5000 miles.
Tow in summer at nearly 12,000 gross combined weight.
My 4.6 cold temp winter start is absolutly quiet except for the fan air noise at the higher idle until the engine temp come up..
Engine has 60k miles.
I run MC 5w20 and change at 5000 miles.
Tow in summer at nearly 12,000 gross combined weight.
My 4.6 cold temp winter start is absolutly quiet except for the fan air noise at the higher idle until the engine temp come up..
Engine has 60k miles.



