so I have a 99 f150 with a 5.4 im having issues with it I have 5 codes pop up heres the following codes...

po155-O2 cencor heater circuit bank 1

po135-02 cencor heater circuit bank 2

p1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction or Electronic Vacuum Regulator Control circuit fault

p1451-EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

p0443- Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit

now as of today I replaced the egr vacuum solenoid and the canister purge valve hoping it would help but yet these codes popped up again. anybody else ever dealt with these stupid codes and was successful? im trying to get my truck ready for emissions but these codes are haunting me.. any help is appreciated also id like to mention I noticed the gas cap is broke apart so just a portion just goes into the filler neck so no clicks or turns just pops in and out I read this may cause a code to pop up as well

 

Hows it running? How many miles?

 

as it starts it runs fine but after awhile it warms up and I can hear it start to idle really low and I can hear the intake suck really hard it has a k&n c.i.a. on it its starts to idle as if it is gonna die and the truck will smooth out for a bit and go back down in idle and run rough again and smooth out I replaced the EGR vacuum solenoid and the canister purge valve and it didn't help it it still drops in rpm and runs super rough and im guessing the computer catches it smooths it out.. basically it sounds like its got huge lopey cams lol but just for a lil bit and then back to normal has about 135k I just bought the truck from California and I live in Arizona.

 

Clean the MAF, -by hand, - get rid of the K&N filter and go with a good dry element. That will straiten out some of the problem. Just the filter, you can use the CAI.

Tell me which valve you changed from the diagram below,-



Also, you changed the EVR solenoid correct ? No Change... While it's idling loopy, pull the green line from the top of the EGR valve. Any change in idle?

 

When it comes to the C.I.A. I use my k&n kit to clean it but put no oil back on it so its "dry" the mas air flow I took off and used some mass air flow cleaner and washed it out... I didnt noticed ince I changed the two parts I did it does run a lil smoother longer but it still drops rpm and runs rough. Whats the correct way to chamge the EVR solenoid correctly? One part that was changed is located on the fire wall and has the two larger vacuum lines on the bottom side of it with a white small line on the bottom the canister purge valve. And the other is located by the throttle bodyheld by two 8mm nuts the EGR vacuum solenoid. So according to your
Diagram the one I see I done is in the smaller pic number 3

 

I will try and pull the green line today after work and see if I notice a idle change. I want to get a gas cap and get rid of the broken one cause I honestly think im having a big issue there as well it doesnt seal turn or anything just falls in and out

 

Looking at the part yes I did change the evr solenoid as well but you mentioned the correct way.. whats the correct way to do this process thanks for your input!!

 

Get a new OEM gas cap on it first. Then clear the codes and see what comes back.

 

Also noticed when I filled the truck up with gas when it filled up I had spilage but not from the filet neck the actual tank underneith so im thinkn there maybe a lose clamp or bad hose somewhere as well

 

check the filler hose and also the filler vent hose....

 

I will when we get back from out of town..ive notcied it takes longer to start the truck after those parts have been changed jhow to set the evr solenoid correcrly?

 

Ok.. so I started the engine and while it was running I pulled the green hose off and felt or heard no change in idle..im heading into town to pick up a gas cap for it

 

All of those are "circuit faults", that means electrical. What are the odds that 5 different sensors would all fail at the same time? You either have a blown fuse or a wiring fault.

Other than that, it sounds like you also have a typical vacuum leak which is usually in the PCV valve plumbing.

 

So should I pull the battery and have it tested for voltage? Its a used optima in the truck it came with.. I noticed on the area where the side post bolt at the positive side one is melted some as if something got hot I will switch batteries tomorrow and see whats going on thanks guys for all the input

 

You should check to see if you have power on the switched "hot" side of each of the sensors. If it's missing, you'll have to work backwards through the circuit to see where it is lost.

No one said anything about the battery. If the engine cranks and starts, the battery is not the issue at hand although it may need service for other reasons.