What is the ap please?

 

I thought I posted it in this thread ? Perhaps not.

Android app, -called Torque or Torque Pro. It was $4.95 for the app at one time and you can get LIVE data from it, - I don't believe you can pull history, (?), but LIVE data is all you need to see what's going on, per cylinder anyway. They keep adding PID's to the app as well. You can upgrade to suit your needs.

Yea Jethat, Motocraft coils, newer parts just have numbers and usually a paint mark, -blue yellow red white or whatnot. They use a paint marker or crayon at the plant.

All Visteons come from Europe now, - use to come from USA, but they closed that plant. They use the plant in Hungary to produce.

 

You guys are exactly right. It is the best way to go in my opinion and has served me very well. The Motorcraft coils are top quality to begin with and offer plenty of fire power (35,000 volts) The spring upgrade while not necessary has allowed me to open up my plug gap quite a bit. The Granatelli coils have a poor reputation and the Weapon X coils are just to expensive. So the spring upgrade combined with the MC coil offers the best of both worlds.

The best deal I've seen on Motorcraft DG-511 coils is here if you want all 8. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Motorcraft-DG511-Ignition-Coil-Set-8-04-08-Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-/360798591175?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54014598c7&vxp=mtr
And here if you are replacing less then 8. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-DG511-Ignition-Coil-3L3E12A366CA-Fits-F150-Navigator-Mountaineer-/360798593889?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540145a361&vxp=mtr
And the connectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/Granatelli-28-1812S-Coil-On-Plug-Connectors-/400303340997?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d33f03dc5&vxp=mtr

 

To the OP, have you considered testing your coils with an ohm meter to see which ones are causing problems? It's very easy to do.
The haines manual says for the Coil over plug that the Primary resistance should be about 0.55 ohms and the
secondary resistance should be about 5,500 ohms. To test it disconnect the electrical connector from the coil
assembly and connect an ohmmeter across the primary (+) terminal and the negative terminal. Your ohm meter should be set on the lowest setting.
The resistance should be as listed above. 0.55. I tested my old MC coils (89,000 miles) just now and found them to be at .5 and my new ones are also at .5.
Now remove the COP from the engine. Connect an ohmmeter with it set on 20K
between the secondary terminals (the one that fits over the spark plug). The resistance shouls be as stated above. Again I tested my new ones and old ones. Old ones read 5.26 and my new ones are reading 5.72.

Also here is a great read on doing this and how to make sure your readings are correct by checking your ohm meter. http://www.wellsve.com/ds_ohm.html

 

BTW- All Visteons are labled and will have "Hungary" right on the label (sticker).

These are all made to Ford spec, - Absolutely NO other coil on the market besides Motorcraft and Visteon follows Ford Specifications.

All junk/low grade coils come from a barg over seas, in a big metal shipping container dug out of some hold . Then sold in bulk to second and 3rd party suppliers to be painted/stickered and sold to the public.

Probable stored in an uncontrolled environment during shipping, - Since everything has to be incredibly cheap in order for a Merchant to make a little on them. They start out cheap and your eventually left with that determination in the end. But lets not leave this out, - there's always those users that defy all odds and they're alway sure to post up lol.

Anyway yea, they won't usually don't last long. ALL of These coils CANNOT withstand thermal shock levels which make them very hit and miss... Pun intended! They also sport very very weak build magnets (single wire).

 

Ohmmeter checks will find a gross failure of a COP (open coil, severely shorted coil), but that particular test is pretty much worthless in diagnosing the very common "mild misfire" symptoms caused by internal arc-over due to insulation breakdown.

 

Is there a particular bluetooth adapter you would recommend?

I'm hearing that I can buy a cheep android, bluetooth used smart phone off E Bay for maybe $40 and I prolly only need wifi to buy/install the app with no monthly service required??

 

Right , the coil has to be completely fried.

For a low grade miss, - no help.
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Short story, not to bad... -

#8 failed once on me after the fuel line spring clamp broke. The spring inside the connector rusted away. (You know, that little perfectly round spring inside there lol.) Couldn't see the damn thing until it came apart. Driving the kid to school, fuel line popped of , the engine began to bawg. Pull over,- fuel was dumping on #8. Thought about grabbing the kid and just heading for the hills, but, I had just slopped dielectric, and siliconed the snot out everything not too long before that dilemma.

Yea, that's the only time I've personally seen one buy the farm tho. I didn't cut that one open, but figured there were several shorted turns.

Anyway, I used one of my boot laces to temporarily tie that fuel line back into the connection,- confident enough to continue on with the journey. I can't recall, but I don't think she was late for school... I do recall her wanting to ditch school and help me fix it lol.

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Yea, adapter prices vary in price quite a bit. I suggest using one that works the best with your phone. You can just search that out, - unless that's got you nowhere lol. Try searching forum info only, - in order to weed out the suppliers. Not here , but google or whatnot.

For extra PIDs. There is a specific Torque/Torque Pro list site.

But yea, I recall adapter prices being much different in price, but that's about all I can tell yuh..Sorry.