I just paid out 317.00 for a new drive line repair and for the first time since owning my '96 f 150 with a 351 Windsor, late august; I hit the gas a tad hard to pass someone and the damn engine check light came on. I knew this would happen. Not sure when I can have this checked out but does anyone have any ideas what the new problem is now?

fuel filter? it's gonna take me a while to get this damn thing tuned up good even though it's been running fine ever since I got it. I need to change out the plugs and wires but can't get to it this month. I have no scan tool. I might want to also try attempting to change out the plugs in November and might like to try using seafoam and or running some mineral mystery oil before I attempt to change the plugs out. I need a whole new wrench set so I can inspect a plug to see what it looks like and for any cracked boots. I'll take my time doing one plug at a time and have already printed out some free stuff from online but can you teach someone HOW NOT to break a plug when removing it or is it really just a matter of how long they have been in there and is it just the luck of the draw if one breaks? If that happens, then i'm really screwed and i'll have to call someone.

besides gapping, is there anything I should spray onto the plugs before installing them? how am I suppose to go about this the right way? of course i'll be drinking a total zero red bull when I begin

 

Sounds like your just overdue for basic maintenance. How long have you had that truck? Get the code read that will help you target teh issue without knowing the code its anyones guess. You dont need to put garbage in your gas or in your crankcase. Just keep clean oil in it. Old school engine. You dont have to do anything special changing the plugs..

 

A CE after flooring it is usually an egr code in my experience.

 

went to town today and the truck ran fine but there is not much power when I try to open it up hitting the pedal in a passing lane. just creeps up, and doesn't get the afterburner jolt forward thing...

I'll stop by a shop tomorrow and hopefully they'll scan it for me. probably plugs are fried. I threw in a small bottle of lucas injector cleaner when I first bought the truck late august.

 

the only proven fuel system cleaners are techron and gumout..

 

jethat, thank you and i'm sure you know what ur talking about. Ur not messing with me are you? I mean, there was a thread a mile long about how seafoam works. Think i'll take your advice for now and just get by conservatively without throwing any stuff at the motor. I sure want to take care of this truck. Motor has 121k and it's the last one I think i'll be able to own unless I win the lotto and I don't even play it

 

Auto parts stores will read codes free. Get them read and post the exact "P" numbers.

Agree - the only injector cleaners that work well are Techron and Gumout with Regane.

Is the tranny downshifting when you hit the pedal hard? Are you sure you don't have clogged cats or another exhaust restriction?

 

 

glc, I didn't know parts stores would do a EC check for free. I was at Napa, the other day and did mention it to 'em when I went to get something but he just referred me to a shop down the street.

As far as is the transmission downshifting, I think it is, as I've only hit the gas hard twice. when I was driving about 10 I hit it and it seem to pick up at that lower gear and gain speed but the other time when I was around 45, it was a gradual excel. Maybe cause I have such big tires. I have 35's and the parts guy mentioned to me that it's not gonna take off and zoom being it's a 4x4.

is he right? In November, i'm gonna do it myself and install wires n plugs, rotor, cap. He said the cheap 20.00 wire set will be fine or was it 40.00?
then he recommended the lube stuff to prevent the plugs from seizing up once tightened down.

All my miles are hwy miles I have the truck owners manual. So as for plugs, just go for what the books says but being it's a '96, if there is a better plug for it, just say say the word and i'll buy them when it's time.

 

Autozone and Advance will read the codes.

 

The only place that I'm aware of where parts stores (Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly) won't read codes is in California.

Code readers are cheap.

 

You should use motorcraft parts or better. The better quality parts you buy the more reliable and better performance. There are better parts available for those engines but the stock stuff is the minimum standard.. Bigger then stock tires do affect bottom end performance and the throw the speedometer off. When you calculate MPG they make the calculation wrong making it seem like the truck gets much worse MPG..