Pre-Luber

Old Aug 25, 2001 | 04:35 AM
  #1  
AjRagno's Avatar
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From: Mpls, MN
Pre-Luber

I was wondering if anyone has or is using one of these systems. I always get a little tense when I start the engine after an oil change and wait for the pressure gauge dial to shoot up. Actually it sounds like it would be a good idea to use all the time.

If no one is using one perhaps you have an opinion as to their value???



http://www.preluber.com

http://www.autoenginelube.com
 

Last edited by AjRagno; Aug 25, 2001 at 06:07 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 06:11 AM
  #2  
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From: Mpls, MN
Unhappy WTF!!!

Anyone?????

I can't beleive that there isn't at least one person here that has used a Pre-Oiling system at one time or another in their life.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 05:47 PM
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OK. Here goes. I held off answering because I can't address your original question concerning using it in your truck after chaninging the oil.

I can only tell you that the only times we have installed prelubers has been on turbocharged diesels. The turbo bearings are susceptible to failure due to coaking of the oil when the turbo isn't sufficiently cooled down by idling the engine after a hard run.

Personally, I wouldn't install one on my truck. The extra plumbing and mechanical system would just add to the probability of something failing. There are people on this board who have 200,000 miles on their trucks and don't have a problem with oil starvation when changing their oil filters.

I don't think it's worth the cost unless you have a turbocharger.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 06:27 PM
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From: Keyser, WV
Talking No need for a pre-luber

I have a Non-Pats key that will crank the engine but will not start the truck. I change the oil and filter, then I crank the engine with this key until oil press. builds up. This way the engine (starter) is filling the filter and building up press. There is no load on the engine bearings or rings. Older vehicles simply remove the coil wire and crank until press rises.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 09:50 PM
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It might be a good idea. A few years ago I read somewhere that about half of the wear on an "average" engine occours during a "cold" start. A cold start was defined as long enough for the oil in the bearings and on the piston walls to have pulled away or dripped back into the pan. If you have ever had a mechanical oil gage you know that it takes 3-10 seconds after cranking the engine to get good oil pressure built up. The article stated that during this time the piston rings and bearings are running dry. I'm not sure that I buy all that but it does bring to mind the comments about highway miles not being all that hard on an engine. Maybe the highway miles just don't include a normal number of cold starts.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 11:58 PM
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The pre luber certainly works, but you are probably trying to cure a problem you don't have.

Ya, ya, everyone talks about the fact that 80 percent of engine wear occurs at startup but what is neglected is that the wear isn't about sufficient oil coverage, it is about the corroisive products that your engine generates while it is cold.

Today's modern oils continue to coat metallic surfaces long after the engine is shut off, and on start up it is highly unlikely that you have metal to metal contact unless your vehicle has been sitting for a very long time.

Thre real damage to your engine comes from the sulphuric acid and nitric acid that is generated as a by product of combustion while your engine is still cold. Instead of achieving complete combustion, you create a variety of chemicals that promptly condense onto the metal surfaces of your engine until you reach operating termperature.

Such is life. No harm with the oiler, maybe a bit of help, but it won't stop that start up damage.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2001 | 12:08 AM
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More than a small percentage of the exotic build Euro cars have pre-lubers, and I'm sure there is a reason. Personally I don't understand why they cost so much.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2001 | 10:06 PM
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From: Mckinleyville CA.
Here is a trick i do after an oil change to build up my oil pressure faster. After changing your filter add oil to your new one about 1/2 way then roll the filter to let the oil soak the paper element. then add more if necessary to reach 1/2 full. the trick is getting the horizontal filter back in with out making a big mess. If done correctly you shouldnt spill any oil and that "rattle at start up" will disappear, and your oil pressure comes up very quickly.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 03:59 AM
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From: Spicewood
Just use synthetic oil for its clingability...to avoid dry-starts...
 
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 01:40 PM
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From: Wylie, Texas
Oil Lube

I've got mixed feelings... On one hand, I've heard numbers where between 20% to 50% of your engine's wear is at startup (someone in the synthetic doubts thread claimed it was as high as 99%.) 99% is BS, but IF this was anywhere near to being true, it would seem like this would be a smart thing to use. At the same time, most of the time the person that is worried about this is the same guy adding 200 shot of NOS and doing anything to add 5 more h.p. which can't be good for long-term engine wear! Unless you are putting an unusual amount of stress on your engine, I think most of that type stuff is overkill. And if you're putting all that stuff/stress on your motor, don't kid yourself about having a truck that's gonna last 200,000 miles!
 
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 03:50 PM
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From: Puyallup, WA
Smile Just like NORCAL..... said

I can't comment on the pre luber, but I know I've always filled my new oil filter with as much as I can before screwing it on.

I would think that cranking an engine on the starter alone to build up pressure would cause more wear because of how many times it has to turn over to get any pressure built up and oil to circulate. When you pre lube the filter and just start it up, my pressure guage pops right up. Just as fast as when you would normally start it up in the morning.

Just do whatever makes you feel comfortable. If a pre luber makes you feel good, go for it. Cranking the engine first or pre filling the filter, great. Whatever lets you sleep at night I say.
 
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