I took my truck to a local shop 2,000 miles ago to have my oil changed. well needless to say i will be changing it myself from now on. and that was my first oil change in the truck, its fairly new to me. its a 4.6, 98. anyways, i noticed it was low on oil the next morning, and they told me they only used 5 quarts of oil. i have heard that these engines take 6, correct? and i looked under the bumper, and saw they used a super cheap, no name solid black oil filter. so im just gonna do it myself and use all motorcraft.


Now, my question is what is the difference between the FL-820S Motorcraft filter vs the FL-400S? The 820S is short, and the 400S is tall.

 

Use the Fl-820S. Not sure of the actual differences, but possibilities are difference in anti-drain back valve, threading etc. The 820 is an excellent filter, no reason not to use it.

 

Many times you get filters with non functioning card board anti drain back and in these engine the drain back is crucial. Motorcraft or better. The Motorcraft filters can be had at walmart for less then 4 bucks. Then the 5 quart jug of Motorcrat oil is less then $19 +1 more quart for about 4 bucks.

 

MC FL-820S threads-M22X1.5-6H
MC FL-400S threads-3/4X16

 

The 400S is for a 4.2 V6. Will not work on a Triton V8.

Yes, the 4.6 takes 6 quarts.

 

What about a Fram filter? how do they stand up to the Motorcraft?

 

Fram has a cardbord anti drainback that almost NEVER works. If you wanta kill your modular engine one of the best ways to do it is buy Fram filters.

 

That's just terrible. To think, a lot of these engines use a quart in between changes. Not a bad thing, - unless you get pimped to begin with.

It's a little work to do it yourself, - but it's your investment, not theirs. What they're doing is giving you as little as possible to get by. Sure, it's probably not going to blow up right away, but it hurts it, it's a slow premature death that's hard to pin on them.

Your better off doing it yourself, even if it cost a few bucks more to do it right. These crankcases take 6 quarts every change, - just six and no more.
So when you do it yourself, make sure to check the dipstick right after you change it. That way you'll know what 6 quarts should read. Some people even scribe their own line on the stick. See, - they're not suppose to be filled to the MAX line on the stick and run that way. Once in awhile is alright, won't hurt it, but not continuously. It's hard on the gaskets.

So do it yourself. It will bring the confidence factor up; maintained to the best of your ability.

BTW- Always use a Motorcraft PCV valve. An incorrect valve is also hard on the gaskets as the margins are not usually broad enough for the engine to breath/circulate properly. Ford uses top of the line gaskets for these engines, but they're not indestructible.

Be good to your engine and they'll go the distance every time. Specially the modular's.

 

Thanks for all the replys, and yeah theres a purlator or something like that pcv valve in there now, ill be switching everything to motorcraft. What about oil? What type of oil is best for these engines?

 

For your 98, Motorcraft 5w 20w Syn Blend. You manual says 5w 30w which you can use as well. Ford switched their recommendation to 5/20 for that engine because it had improved the mpgs for 97+ models.

There's other manufacturers you can use. Personally, I prefer Castrol or Motorcraft, - which ever is cheaper at the time lol.

Always use the FL820 for that engine.

 

I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-20 and filter.

 

I assume it's a used truck; how many miles are on it? Because of the requirement back then, odds are that truck has had 5W30 its whole life. Guessing your up around 100K miles? I'd not swap to 5W20 at this point if its had 30 the whole time.

Just so you know you have options, there are better filters out there. It doesn't really get me spun up, but most of the banter around here is that Motorcraft filters are the "end-all be-all" of oil filters and that just ain't the case. Bang for the buck, absolutely. Hard to beat them in that category. However, there are better constructed filters out there; Amsoil and Mobil 1 just to name a couple off the top of my head. Cost more? Yes they do. Just letting you know there are options and you can pick your own bandwagon to ride on.

Since you're looking for options and opinions, I use Amsoil 0W30 and an Amsoil filter. FWIW, the only reason I don't use 0/5W20 is back when I bought my truck new, the 20 vs 30 weight debate was in high swing. I'll admit I got wrapped up in it as most of the arguments being made at that time (not now) was that W20 was too thin. I didn't know about it back then but nothing could be further from the truth. Anyways, long story short I decided to go with the 30. In retrospect, the 20 was to only benefit fuel economy on the older 2V motors anyways and was of no detriment to the motor. I've never had a single issue from running a W30 and have no regrets…but with the mileage (as with my recommendation to you), there's no way I'd change now.

 

Yea 5/20 is retroactive back to the 97+ models. I'd trust the Ford engineers vs what others may say. They did engineer and build the engine.

Also, be careful with Mobile 1. At one time some of their formulations didn't pass spec wear ratings.

Amsoil may be the best formulation out there, but that's not always good with High Mile engines. Switching to Amsoil can and has had adverse effects. Particularly clogging issues. Their oil cleans so well, with high mileage engines that sludge may overwhelm the pic-up screen (sump) and the PCV system.

You can convert to Amsoil, but w/High Mileage engines you need to do that carefully. I'd suggest running AutoRX thru it for awhile first as that product is made to clean slowly and AFAIK it's the only product that does that safely.

Don't get me wrong, Amsoil is great stuff, I use it the transmission and have over 300,000 miles on that trans. Doing so saved my trans from an early death. It wasn't doing to well @ 185,000. Thought I needed a new one for sure. Flushed it out good and hand cleaned the accumulator bodies, refilled w/Amsoil and it gave it new life. Still working great!

What ever you do, if your in debate, it would be wise to keep all that in mind.
You Know, - so you don't end up screwing yourself lol.

 

Maybe older forumlas didn't meet current requirements, but the extended performance oil from Mobil 1 should be just fine.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ce_5W-20.aspx#

 

FRAM EG and TG filters have fiber end caps. The FRAM Ultra has metal end caps. The FRAM EG has a nitrile rubber ADBV. The FRAM TG and Ultra have a silicone ADBV.
Motorcraft oil filters that have an "S" following its part number indicates it is a silicone ADBV.
Example; MC FL-400S-Silicone ADBV
Example; MC FL-1A-Nitrile rubber ADBV