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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #31  
1999 F150 Bob's Avatar
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Negative side worked perfect!

Cinched the positive connector completely tight while off the battery terminal and took some channel locks (Cro-Magnon style) to the base of the connector making it slightly egg shaped. Opened it full up, put it on the positive battery terminal, and tightened it . . . BINGO!!!

14.7 volts from the alternator on the battery at idle.

Final conclusion, 33 month old AutoZone Gold Top eight year battery with 36 month free replacement guarantee that accepts a charge to 12.7v, has all cells full with no sign of deposits on the plates . . . apparently has amperage issues and is TOAST!!!

Less than $250 bucks into all new junk (not reman) in the system, my time at $.50 per hour (beer), spare rigs (it's a ranch truck) plus given that I retired at 50 and have time on my hands . . . priceless!!!

Down side, 1.5+ hours out of the sticks to the nearest store in the *****ty!!

Thank to all for the assistance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #32  
1999 F150 Bob's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 1999 F150 Bob
Final conclusion, 33 month old AutoZone Gold Top eight year battery with 36 month free replacement guarantee that accepts a charge to 12.7v, has all cells full with no sign of deposits on the plates . . . apparently has amperage issues and is TOAST!!!
Update . . .

Ok, this battery is an AutoZone Duralast 65-DLG with an 850 CCA and 150 RC rating.

Today I took my 10 year old Optima Blue Top Deep Cycle I use for a trolling motor. It has a 900 CCA and 155 RC rating.

Set the Optima on the ground and connected it via jumper cables straight to the new battery terminal connectors bypassing the Duralast completely, starts every time ALL DAY LONG!!

Looks like I’m getting a FREE battery!
 
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