heater hose replacement tips 2000 5.4
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heater hose replacement tips 2000 5.4
Just finished replacing the return heater hose on my 2000 F150 5.4. I ran into problems so I thought I should share my solutions to help the next guy.
This is the heater hose that sits directly over top of number 4 cylinder COP. It was leaking coolant a tiny bit, but enough to wet the #4 plug and cause a misfire. Common problem according to this forum.
First problem you'll encounter is removing the hose. The lower end has a spring clamp, but the tabs are facing the firewall. I tried all my pliers and none would work. Eventually I got out my dremmel tool, installed a carbide cutter, and after removing the COP and wires out of the way, cut a groove in the clamp until it gave way. It is helpful to cut most of the hose off before you try removing it.
The top was a big challenge also. It is a quick disconnect system. Service manual says depress tabs on retainer and pull off the hose. Not so easy. After fighting with it for a while, I discovered that the tabs that must be depressed are part of a retaining ring that will remain on the heater core pipe after the hose is removed. So don't do what I was doing, I was depressing the tabs and trying to pull the entire hose and the tabs off the pipe. Just depress the tabs with one hand and pull the hose off with the other hand leaving the tabs on the pipe.
Now, the replacement hose I used was made by Dorman, part 626-219. It came with a retaining ring and the entire hose assembly. Do not try to push the Dorman hose onto the Ford retaining ring that remains on the heater core pipe. It won't fit. I called Dorman and the tech told me to pry the Ford yellow plastic retaining ring off the pipe, or cut it off with side cutters. I did the latter. Then push the black Dorman retaining ring onto the heater core pipe. It will get over the raised portion of the pipe and lock into place so to speak. Dorman hoses use a double O ring set up, much better than the factory single O ring.
Installation of the bottom end of the hose can be difficult if you try to use the supplied spring clamp. I faced the tabs towards the front and got it down part way, but the clamp tabs interfered with something and it was tough to position it correctly. Anyway, if I did it again, I'd remove the supplied spring clamp and use a worm clamp.
The top end of the hose is not hard to install once you have the Dorman retaining ring on the pipe. The Dorman tech said to spray some WD 40 on the pipe to lubricate it so the double O rings slide nicely without pinching or getting nicked.
Hope this experience helps others in this hose replacement.
This is the heater hose that sits directly over top of number 4 cylinder COP. It was leaking coolant a tiny bit, but enough to wet the #4 plug and cause a misfire. Common problem according to this forum.
First problem you'll encounter is removing the hose. The lower end has a spring clamp, but the tabs are facing the firewall. I tried all my pliers and none would work. Eventually I got out my dremmel tool, installed a carbide cutter, and after removing the COP and wires out of the way, cut a groove in the clamp until it gave way. It is helpful to cut most of the hose off before you try removing it.
The top was a big challenge also. It is a quick disconnect system. Service manual says depress tabs on retainer and pull off the hose. Not so easy. After fighting with it for a while, I discovered that the tabs that must be depressed are part of a retaining ring that will remain on the heater core pipe after the hose is removed. So don't do what I was doing, I was depressing the tabs and trying to pull the entire hose and the tabs off the pipe. Just depress the tabs with one hand and pull the hose off with the other hand leaving the tabs on the pipe.
Now, the replacement hose I used was made by Dorman, part 626-219. It came with a retaining ring and the entire hose assembly. Do not try to push the Dorman hose onto the Ford retaining ring that remains on the heater core pipe. It won't fit. I called Dorman and the tech told me to pry the Ford yellow plastic retaining ring off the pipe, or cut it off with side cutters. I did the latter. Then push the black Dorman retaining ring onto the heater core pipe. It will get over the raised portion of the pipe and lock into place so to speak. Dorman hoses use a double O ring set up, much better than the factory single O ring.
Installation of the bottom end of the hose can be difficult if you try to use the supplied spring clamp. I faced the tabs towards the front and got it down part way, but the clamp tabs interfered with something and it was tough to position it correctly. Anyway, if I did it again, I'd remove the supplied spring clamp and use a worm clamp.
The top end of the hose is not hard to install once you have the Dorman retaining ring on the pipe. The Dorman tech said to spray some WD 40 on the pipe to lubricate it so the double O rings slide nicely without pinching or getting nicked.
Hope this experience helps others in this hose replacement.