Motor Cleaner
Motor Cleaner
So I needed to add some oil to Ole Girl this weekend and I noticed that in the fill spout that there was some yellow looking oil inside. Now I know that it is from condensation.
My question is how do you clean the inside of your motor? There are several products at my local NAPA but what have you used and what seems to work the best for you guys? I am thinking that something that you put in and then do an oil change immediatly would be better than one that you run in all the time. What says you?
My question is how do you clean the inside of your motor? There are several products at my local NAPA but what have you used and what seems to work the best for you guys? I am thinking that something that you put in and then do an oil change immediatly would be better than one that you run in all the time. What says you?
Regular oil changes using motorcraft semi synthetic and a motor craft filter are the best way to keep your modular engine running for along time. There isnt anything most of the people who post here will recommend adding to the oil. The stuff on the fill cap is entirely normal wipe it off and disregard it.
Clean or replace your PCV valve. That's a common reason for condensation to get into the engine. Also, make sure that the PCV hose hasn't collapsed. Happens frequently as the hoses age.
As far as cleaning it, I wouldn't risk it. NAPA does sell a product called "Fast Engine Flush" or something like that. I've used it on older engines that had sludge and it works well, but be cautious. Too many small orifices that could easily clog with dislodged sludge.
Just make sure you regularly change your oil. No, it doesn't have to be Motorcraft brand. Yes, you should use the recommended weight (usually 5w-20).
As far as cleaning it, I wouldn't risk it. NAPA does sell a product called "Fast Engine Flush" or something like that. I've used it on older engines that had sludge and it works well, but be cautious. Too many small orifices that could easily clog with dislodged sludge.
Just make sure you regularly change your oil. No, it doesn't have to be Motorcraft brand. Yes, you should use the recommended weight (usually 5w-20).
ccfire: Once a week or more often get the motor on the highway for 10-20 miles or so at 65mph. Let that motor heat up to normal operating temp. Most of that condensation will evaporate.
As for cleaning solution? Thats a can of worms. I would say a slow cleaning process is the best. Use a good oil with loads of calcium. Like Pennzoil Yellow Bottle for 3 or 4 OCI and a motorcraft filter. 3K-4K OCI. Do this 3 to 4 times... Then pick a popular semi-synthetic oil and run it for 5K mile OCI. If you pick a synthetic? You can easily go 10K miles between OCI. Just use a Motorcraft oil filter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...04#Post2449604
glc: Do you think Auto-Rx actually works? At bobistheoilguy this product has lost alot of creditability. I can honestly say I have used it in my transmission and motor of my 7.3L Powerstroke and can honestly say I think it was a waste of money. Just my honest opinion.
What motor are we talking about?
As for cleaning solution? Thats a can of worms. I would say a slow cleaning process is the best. Use a good oil with loads of calcium. Like Pennzoil Yellow Bottle for 3 or 4 OCI and a motorcraft filter. 3K-4K OCI. Do this 3 to 4 times... Then pick a popular semi-synthetic oil and run it for 5K mile OCI. If you pick a synthetic? You can easily go 10K miles between OCI. Just use a Motorcraft oil filter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...04#Post2449604
glc: Do you think Auto-Rx actually works? At bobistheoilguy this product has lost alot of creditability. I can honestly say I have used it in my transmission and motor of my 7.3L Powerstroke and can honestly say I think it was a waste of money. Just my honest opinion.
What motor are we talking about?
Last edited by SyN; Apr 3, 2013 at 12:35 PM. Reason: I forgot 3 things... Worry about something else!
Somebody over at BITOG has an agenda against AutoRX for some reason - it really does work for the intended purpose (desludging) if used exactly as per instructions (among other things, with a straight dino oil ONLY). It *is* a slow cleaner. It's useless as a preventative additive.
If you are going to go 10k between oil changes with a good synthetic, you should use a better filter than a MC - there are premium filters made for this purpose such as Mobil 1, K&N, and Amsoil.
If you are going to go 10k between oil changes with a good synthetic, you should use a better filter than a MC - there are premium filters made for this purpose such as Mobil 1, K&N, and Amsoil.
Somebody over at BITOG has an agenda against AutoRX for some reason - it really does work for the intended purpose (desludging) if used exactly as per instructions (among other things, with a straight dino oil ONLY). It *is* a slow cleaner. It's useless as a preventative additive.
If you are going to go 10k between oil changes with a good synthetic, you should use a better filter than a MC - there are premium filters made for this purpose such as Mobil 1, K&N, and Amsoil.
If you are going to go 10k between oil changes with a good synthetic, you should use a better filter than a MC - there are premium filters made for this purpose such as Mobil 1, K&N, and Amsoil.
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SO thank you for all the imput. I do have one more question though. You guys keep talking about MotorCraft Filter. Is there something special about those? I have always used Napa Gold thinking that was a better filter than the MC. Where do you stand on that??
A Napa Gold is no better than a MC, but it's a good filter, made by Wix. MC's are made by Purolator. You can use any quality filter that meets specs that has a decent anti-drainback valve. Stay AWAY from any Fram-made filter.
What are you using for oil? The recommended oil is 5W20 semi-synthetic Motorcraft, which is made by Conoco and tests out as good as most so-called "synthetics". You can use any oil that meets specs, but with a 5.4 3 valve you need to stick with 5W20 for proper cam phaser operation.
What are you using for oil? The recommended oil is 5W20 semi-synthetic Motorcraft, which is made by Conoco and tests out as good as most so-called "synthetics". You can use any oil that meets specs, but with a 5.4 3 valve you need to stick with 5W20 for proper cam phaser operation.
I use the 5 20 bulk oil from the shop that i used to work at. Haven't had any problem with that in the 5 years I have been using it. The only thing I could say is that I am now in the last 2 years or so using a quart every 3000 miles
a quart in 3000 miles is very normal.
Our 5.4L 3V has had a healthy diet of 5W-30 since the 12,500 mile mark. Then the company who had the truck before us- weined the 5.4L off of 5W-20 and went to 5W-30 semi-synthetic at that that time-->12,500. I have all the maintenence records. We bought the truck with 150K miles on her. She now has 180,250 and uses less then a 1/4 of a qt between 5K OCI. I have used Mobil Super HM 5W-30 since the 150K mile mark. 5.4L is smooth as can be. The 5W-30 seems to have not effected the cam-phasers in any shape or form. The same company has 2 more of these 08 5.4L 3V that have over 300K miles on them using 5W-30 with not one issue. They are still in service as of today. I will say Our 08 was mainly used as a shuttle truck back and forth to Houston. So 3/4 of the miles were interstate and highway. Everyone has there opinion and thoughts about Oil Viscosity for the 5.4L 3V. I just gave our experience nothing more.
My opinion is just keep your oil changed with a good quality oil and good filter--->Do not neglect this. Viscosity is a whole other can of worms!
By all means stick with the 5W-20... I was not trying to persuade you to try 5W-30.
When you ask a question about oil-->Prepare for many different opinions and views.
My opinion is just keep your oil changed with a good quality oil and good filter--->Do not neglect this. Viscosity is a whole other can of worms!
By all means stick with the 5W-20... I was not trying to persuade you to try 5W-30.
When you ask a question about oil-->Prepare for many different opinions and views.
Last edited by SyN; Apr 4, 2013 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Worry about something else!





