Sorry again for the confusion guys. I posted here because we're usually pretty darn good about figuring this stuff out together around here; and I just figured a starter is a starter is a starter, so it shouldn't matter; the basics are the same.

 

On a motorcycle you had it hooked up correctly. I know its a pain and prob involves removing fairings, exhaust, etc but as pricey as a starter for a 91 Ducati is you'll want to bench test it outside of the bike. If it still arcs, you're going to want to open it up and check that the brush assembly is in good shape. Not worn all the way down, broke, cracked, or a loose wire. Also make sure there is no debris from the brushes wearing, dust is OK but no chunks. If all that checks out the problem is going to most likely be the windings which you can't do much about yourself. At that point take it to a starter/alternator rebuild shop or watch fleabay. Been in your shoes plenty of times on much older bikes.

 

Or if you live on a hill you could just go old school.

For future reference, to test a motorcycle starter in the bike, just turn the ignition to on and bridge the terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver.

 

exactly, its for weight saving purposes

 

Frankenstein...did all that. Bench testing with a good batt still yielded only a giant arc. Already had it apart (know what they say about great minds...). Only thin that seemed abnormal internally was one of the (4) magnets on the case itself was broke free. It was still in place, but loose from the case from its bonding. Don't know if this would contribute to a problem or not. Otherwise, internals looked great. Come to think of it, I could have possibly knocked the magnet loose while banging on it to see if it was jammed up prior to removal, LOL. The magnet still attracts to the remaining layer of magnet that's still bonded, so that would make me think this isn't a contributing problem.

Just for ****s and giggles...I called the local dealer and try get just a tiny bit over $500 for a new starter!!! Sorry brotha...maybe in my next lifetime, but not this one.

 

Well...back to square one! Took the starter to AutoZone just for the heck of it and put it in a test stand and that sucker spins like new money!!! Starter relay clicks and when the starter relay is engaged, I have 13.2 volts at the terminal on the starter (with it all back together).

I'm guessing I have a battery showing 12+ volts but not enough amperage to do any work. Thoughts?????

 

eliminate all battery corrosion, then do a voltage drop test. Check for the difference in voltage from battery + to starter cable end + while the circuit is "active and under load" so essentially, try and crank it over and check it while "cranking"

No voltage difference shows 0 volts on meter, good cable. Showing 1 or more volts in difference from one end to the other, shows you have something else consuming voltage before it gets to the intended load.

 

In addition to Patman's suggestions, I would check that the starter solenoid is not touching the frame or otherwise grounded. If the housing or terminals or exposed cables touch the frame, everything looks good with the key in the on position and then flatlines when you hit the start button. Sometimes the bracket or rubber keeper get out of position and cause that.

What's the headlight doing when you hit the start button?

 

OK...she's running. Jumpered in a known good battery and it started right up.