jbrew knows better than I do, but what I did was get it started out, then spray it down with PB blaster and I let it sit over night. Came back to it today and it was still pretty tough, but once it was about half way out it was pretty smooth and came right out. Whether or not mine was removed with the engine swap and made it easier I don't know, but it really didn't look like anything had really been touched on my intake. Pretty sure all they did was unhook and unbolt the intake manifold and swap it over to the new block/heads. The reason I think they did that is because they removed the cab when they swapped the engine, so it was probably easier anyway. My question is can I leave the EGR attached to the hard line going to the exhaust and still remove the intake, or do I need to remove it? Having trouble getting into the nut holding it on.

 

Picked up my parts today. Hopefully the weather will hold out for a while and I'll get to work on it. Been raining all day, but it has finally stopped. Just hoping the manifold comes out without any problems.

 

How did you do? The manifolds come off no problem. It's re-installing them that requires a certain technique. Do that wrong or half *** and you may pay dearly lol.

 

Eh, well... Didn't exactly get done what I wanted to. With the weather and the little problems I kept running into I ended up having to put her all back together before getting the manifold off. One problem I ran into is I think when the mechanics had the cab off to replace the engine they set it back on too far forward. Could be a result of a couple busted/rigged cab mounts. Either way, the back of the intake literally sits against the firewall and had dug a place in the insulation. So... I got the thermostat and housing replaced and replaced the heater hoses and that was it. Put a bottle of bars stop leak in it, fresh coolant and cleaned it up. So far it's running great. I also went ahead and cleaned the EGR ports and replaced the fuel filter. No signs of leaks at the moment. I've still got the new gaskets so if it will last long enough I may see if I can find a mechanic with a garage and time that can replace them for me. Sucks not having a proper place to work. I'm thinking I may try to sell the truck for whatever I can get out of it and get something else. Maybe a smaller pickup or SUV.

 

That sucks about the cab, -can't believe they did that. Might have to take it loose and wrap a chain around a tree trunk to re-adjust.

 

I'm just afraid that if I got to loosen the cab mounts I might ruin more of them. They're just so rusty. I know for sure one is no good and they rigged it up with a welded bolt so it would stay in. Not exactly their fault. We told them to keep costs down as much as possible when they did it, so a busted cab mount isn't a big deal. Anyway, it's still leaking and causing a slight misfire. Noticed it on my way home from work. Popped the hood and I can hear the leak hissing on the pass side, just can't see it.

 

Huh, I've only seen that happen when people use those damn body lift kits. Otherwise, yes, that's a difficult repair and somewhat dangerous to let ride as the cab may detach completely in an accident.

Yea, if they're rusted that bad, there isn't much you can do and that's correct, you'll damage them more most likely. The vehicle is about shot unless you can find a good cab. Not sure it's worth going thru all that.

My truck rusted out, thankfully, the body mounts are stable. I have seen when they rust out out there tho, two guys can lift one side of the cab off the frame.
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Leaking from the manifold? HC hard line or hose? Or is it @ the water pump, those leak directly behind. Also, there's a bypass line just behind the manifold that taps the HC hardline.

 

The cab is actually in great shape, the mounts are just rusty. It sits fine the way it is. Just needs new mounts. In fact, I'd love to find a 4x4 rollover and drop my cab and bed on. The only rust anywhere on it is a bit under the radiator and behind the tailgate. Other than that it's all good. As far as that leak goes, pretty sure it's at the gasket at the front HC hard line, I just can't see it actually leaking. It's moist there. Pretty sure it's not from the rear hard line since it affects the plugs. Checked the torque on the manifold bolts while I was in there and it's good. Not seeing any coolant in the valley or any pools anywhere. I guess it's possible the manifold is cracked somewhere, just hoping that's not the case. I'll drive it this week and see how it does. Maybe if I just keep looking under the hood I'll find something.

 

The 2000 model years always crack, - it's just a matter of when it's going to happen. HC hardline isn't gasketed. It uses 2 o'rings, red and blue and they always fail as well. That's why Ford eliminated them for their reman engines. There's a picture of their modification at the end of section one in the Haynes/Chilton manuals. Personally, I chopped the pipe and added a section of 3/4 heater hose. Never had another problem.

If your cab has shifted enough to cause your intake to dig into the firewall insulation, I'd say it's worse than you think. That's a pretty good shift.

 

BTW- You may snap that intake right off, if you get on the brakes hard enough.

 

I don't understand what you mean when you say you chopped the pipe. You mean at the intake? I was thinking the gasket under the hard line where the manifold meets the head was leaking out and ontop of the head. Doesn't seem to be leaking into the head. Not seeing any smoke. Of course now that I really think about it, I'm not smelling antifreeze under the hood either... At least I haven't noticed it. At any rate, I'm going to call the mechanic who did the engine swap and I also found out yesterday that I've got a cousin back home who's a mechanic so I'll call him, too. See what they can maybe do for me.

 

Truck did fine this morning on my way to work. Throttle response was good. Also a lot of hills here and it didn't have any trouble pulling itself like it was having. I also have an issue with my heater core getting plugged. Not sure what the deal is, but I clear it and the heat works great for a bit, then it clogs again. Wondering if the pressure at the heater core line isn't causing the problem. Also my old thermostat was sticking and I think possibly contributing to the issue with there being too much built up pressure under the intake. Just a theory.

 

This pipe -



The o-rings go here, -



Cut the pipe, got rid of the O-rings, installed heater hose, -

 

Also, keep in mind that "Bars Leak" can and has caused engine failure in the past. Watch those temps.

 

Oh, THAT pipe. Lol. Yeah, heard all about that little bugger. Didn't notice any leaking around that area. The valley appears to be dry. Also, any time I add bars I always pay attention to my gauges and fluid levels. I just used the thick liquid stuff. Not the pellets. I don't trust putting those pellets in there.