2003 5.4 quits after first startup
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Joined: Feb 2008
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2003 5.4 quits after first startup
Hi I have a 2003 5.4l that when you first start it in the morning it dies right away. But if u hold fuel pedal down a bit when it first starts can make it run. After a minute or more it well run on it's own, but kinda rough running. Then once it's been run for a bit it well idle fine like drive a couple miles up the road. If let it sit couple hours then it does same thing. Just wondering if it might be the IAc or not. No check engine light on or anything.
Thanks
Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 832
Likes: 2
From: NE iowa
Better to clean the IAC valve 1st, on the back side of the throttle body housing.
Best way is to clean the whole throttle body housing, (TBH) there are 2 internal EGR ports in the TBH that, in all likelihood are pretty carboned up too. & then one can clean the back side , or inside of the throttle plate, which can also get pretty grungy. Some good aerosol carb cleaner works well here .
Once the TBH is off then remove the IAC and clean it, making sure that the small internal plunger moves freely, most like WD40 for this. Also this is a good time to inspect the vacuum line elbow for the PCV, which has history of craking causing vacuum leaks
Then clean the MAF sensor, which is just behind, or down stream from the air filter, use aerosol cleaner safe for MAF sensors.
Seems like a lot, but not too bad to do, 2-3 hours and no special tools needed other than screwdrivers and few metric sockets & maybe a extension. (8mm & 10mm if memory serves correct)
( Most parts stores have fuel pressure gauges to rent). Not that the fuel pump anti drain back valve can't be bad, just better to test rather than go replace. Thinking that the Anti drain back valve is integrated into the pump, which in the tank...maybe its in the filter, which would be supper easy to remedy then
Best way is to clean the whole throttle body housing, (TBH) there are 2 internal EGR ports in the TBH that, in all likelihood are pretty carboned up too. & then one can clean the back side , or inside of the throttle plate, which can also get pretty grungy. Some good aerosol carb cleaner works well here .
Once the TBH is off then remove the IAC and clean it, making sure that the small internal plunger moves freely, most like WD40 for this. Also this is a good time to inspect the vacuum line elbow for the PCV, which has history of craking causing vacuum leaks
Then clean the MAF sensor, which is just behind, or down stream from the air filter, use aerosol cleaner safe for MAF sensors.
Seems like a lot, but not too bad to do, 2-3 hours and no special tools needed other than screwdrivers and few metric sockets & maybe a extension. (8mm & 10mm if memory serves correct)
( Most parts stores have fuel pressure gauges to rent). Not that the fuel pump anti drain back valve can't be bad, just better to test rather than go replace. Thinking that the Anti drain back valve is integrated into the pump, which in the tank...maybe its in the filter, which would be supper easy to remedy then
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton Or.
Better to clean the IAC valve 1st, on the back side of the throttle body housing.
Best way is to clean the whole throttle body housing, (TBH) there are 2 internal EGR ports in the TBH that, in all likelihood are pretty carboned up too. & then one can clean the back side , or inside of the throttle plate, which can also get pretty grungy. Some good aerosol carb cleaner works well here .
Once the TBH is off then remove the IAC and clean it, making sure that the small internal plunger moves freely, most like WD40 for this. Also this is a good time to inspect the vacuum line elbow for the PCV, which has history of craking causing vacuum leaks
Then clean the MAF sensor, which is just behind, or down stream from the air filter, use aerosol cleaner safe for MAF sensors.
Seems like a lot, but not too bad to do, 2-3 hours and no special tools needed other than screwdrivers and few metric sockets & maybe a extension. (8mm & 10mm if memory serves correct)
( Most parts stores have fuel pressure gauges to rent). Not that the fuel pump anti drain back valve can't be bad, just better to test rather than go replace. Thinking that the Anti drain back valve is integrated into the pump, which in the tank...maybe its in the filter, which would be supper easy to remedy then
Best way is to clean the whole throttle body housing, (TBH) there are 2 internal EGR ports in the TBH that, in all likelihood are pretty carboned up too. & then one can clean the back side , or inside of the throttle plate, which can also get pretty grungy. Some good aerosol carb cleaner works well here .
Once the TBH is off then remove the IAC and clean it, making sure that the small internal plunger moves freely, most like WD40 for this. Also this is a good time to inspect the vacuum line elbow for the PCV, which has history of craking causing vacuum leaks
Then clean the MAF sensor, which is just behind, or down stream from the air filter, use aerosol cleaner safe for MAF sensors.
Seems like a lot, but not too bad to do, 2-3 hours and no special tools needed other than screwdrivers and few metric sockets & maybe a extension. (8mm & 10mm if memory serves correct)
( Most parts stores have fuel pressure gauges to rent). Not that the fuel pump anti drain back valve can't be bad, just better to test rather than go replace. Thinking that the Anti drain back valve is integrated into the pump, which in the tank...maybe its in the filter, which would be supper easy to remedy then
X2 for Idle Air Control valve.
Classic symptom