Codes P0171, and P0174 2006 4.6

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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 02:20 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by EzraF

Idles in park around 700-750 RPM's and idles smooth at normal operating temp.

Many thanks for all the valuable input. I'm hell bent on fixing this nuisance.
Can't help if you don't answer the questions. I asked for EXACT rpms. You say it idles smooth. So what are the EXACT rpms ??
 
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 04:30 PM
  #17  
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In order for him to tell us EXACT rpm's he would have to hook up an digital tach or have a tuning program capable of doing a data log, He mite not have either. 700-750 is what a factory tach would look like in that range.
 

Last edited by BobFinnell; Sep 7, 2012 at 04:35 PM. Reason: spellin
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 09:08 AM
  #18  
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Yeah I have no idea what the EXACT rpm's are.
I have inspected every vacum line & PCV line I can visually and they all look good. I also inspected the intake tubing after the MAF and all looks good.
Do I have to use a special wrench/socket to remove the o2 sensors?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 02:30 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by EzraF
Yeah I have no idea what the EXACT rpm's are.
Well, if your that lazy and can't even look, -then it's a good guess that you haven't done what's been questioned so far, -or what you say you have. Not thoroughly anyway.

Do you seriously want to fix your truck? I don't think so, not to seriously anyway. I mean common, that's just Lazy. No other word for it. Not sure what else I'm suppose to think here.

Idle rpm differences at closed and open loop can point a mechanic in the right direction,- to the problem part. Apparently you have some sort of problem just reading the rpm scale ?

Iduno, maybe you better take it in.

Good luck anyway, -yea start throwing parts at it, - you'll get there.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 06:48 AM
  #20  
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Still sounds like a air leak. I kept getting these codes on my Expd. Replaced and cleaned every thing. All new PCV, EGR, and IAC lines, new IAC, EGR, and PCV. Replaced S&B CAI with volante, thinking there was an issue with tubing. Also had a whistle. Truck ran and idled fine moost of the time with the occasional stumble when coming to stiop after running for an extended period. Ended up being a cracked intake manifold.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 10:03 AM
  #21  
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If the 2006 is the same as the 2003, you can use the digital odometer display as a tach. As I remember - press and hold the reset button, turn on the key, and hold till it reads "test". Repeatedly press the reset till it says "tach". Start the engine.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Glen R
Still sounds like a air leak. I kept getting these codes on my Expd. Replaced and cleaned every thing. All new PCV, EGR, and IAC lines, new IAC, EGR, and PCV. Replaced S&B CAI with volante, thinking there was an issue with tubing. Also had a whistle. Truck ran and idled fine moost of the time with the occasional stumble when coming to stiop after running for an extended period. Ended up being a cracked intake manifold.
Was it cracked below the cross-over? That's were they usually crack with the composite manifolds. For that model year, and if it's a 5four. Not sure what the 4six engines had for an intake/manif that year. (?)
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #23  
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That is where it cracked. It is a 5.4.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by glc
If the 2006 is the same as the 2003, you can use the digital odometer display as a tach. As I remember - press and hold the reset button, turn on the key, and hold till it reads "test". Repeatedly press the reset till it says "tach". Start the engine.
The O6 has this type of EVR/EGR/DPFE system. I believe this is sold as a whole part, -since 04 anyway. -

This is obviously a 4.2L, it shows the same type sytem the 06 has, -except for location, -



____________________________________

Plus it has the "drive by wire" system TB. I don't think it has an actual IAC anymore. Iduno, - haven't had the privilege yet lol.

BTW, It may have a heated PCV system like the 5fours. Those PVC systems look a little harder to work on, from the diagrams I've seen in the past. Not sure? Anyway, they looked to be heated differently tho , from 97-03 models.

So it's a little different to troubleshoot. I never liked the looks of the drive by wire get up. It looked like and invite for problems to come IMO.

Other than that, small tweaks to Emissions systems. Haven't heard of any difficulty's with those tho.

I do know those throttle body type motors @ the body can go bad. Something like that, -not sure if that's the proper terminology, - I've heard them called an actual tb motor mechanism.

____________________

So, he most likley didn't know how to bring up the rpm readout? That makes more sense.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #25  
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Thumbs down

Originally Posted by jbrew
Well, if your that lazy and can't even look, -then it's a good guess that you haven't done what's been questioned so far, -or what you say you have. Not thoroughly anyway.

Do you seriously want to fix your truck? I don't think so, not to seriously anyway. I mean common, that's just Lazy. No other word for it. Not sure what else I'm suppose to think here.

Idle rpm differences at closed and open loop can point a mechanic in the right direction,- to the problem part. Apparently you have some sort of problem just reading the rpm scale ?

Iduno, maybe you better take it in.

Good luck anyway, -yea start throwing parts at it, - you'll get there.
Lazy? Really? Are those insults really necessary? No, they are not. It has nothing to do with being lazy, the trucks tach gives an approximate reading at best. I have no other way of getting "exact" rpm's. I did not know the digital odometer would give rpm's so I will try that. As far as your throwing parts at it comment the only parts i have replaced were fuel filter, PCV filter and the O2 sensors(not yet replaced due to complexity of the passenger side sensor) all based on advice that made sense to me.
So if insulting people makes you feel better about yourself have at it. I am just trying to fix my truck.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Was it cracked below the cross-over? That's were they usually crack with the composite manifolds. For that model year, and if it's a 5four. Not sure what the 4six engines had for an intake/manif that year. (?)
It is a 4.6 with a aluminum intake manifold and the PCV is the non heated variety. This weekend I again went thru checking all the vacuum & PCV lines I could to find any leaks. I have seen post where they find leaks on a elbow line near the firewall/battery area but my truck has no vacuum lines back there.
All the lines looked near new with no signs of deterioration.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by EzraF
Lazy? Really? Are those insults really necessary?
Well, I guess I hadn't realized that you may not know how to read a tachometer.

Then again. If you do not,- it may be a better idea to just take the vehicle in and let the pros have at it.

Regardless, -good luck with her.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #28  
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Check your fuel injector "o" rings
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 02:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by baadgoat
Check your fuel injector "o" rings
Thanks! taking it in to the shop.
Changed the O2 sensors and now it idles bad when before the O2 sensor change it idled fine.
Crap.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 08:19 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
I agree. Specially with both banks testing positive for lean, - and at the same time. If the OP would post EXACT idle rpms @ operating temp in park, it would be much easier to diagnose. But hey, sounds like he has plan set in mind. Maybe we'll get to see how that pans out for him jgger.
Found it. Wish I had left it running 2 months ago when checking vacuum lines, it had a cover over the line so I assumed it was cool. with the engine running there was no doubt.
Now I I'm not sure what line it is for replacement. Damn near split right in half. leads to the intake manifold from some module right off the brake master cylinder. Just damn glad to know what it is after 2 months.
 
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