Yes, but only Motorcraft is made exactly to Ford specs. SP-493 is in fact the best plug for the 2V engine.

 

Actually, Denso Iridium IT-16 is the *best* non-MC plug for a 2V, but you do pay dearly for it.

MGD

 

i thought iridium plugs were harder to fire then plat?

anyways update, i got my used M/C coils today i switched those out with the older 7 coils i had leaving only one old coil, well i got my take off power back, "the spin the tires at every take off power" SO yes the coils where a low grade misfire and the last one still needs to be switched out.

HOWEVER: the problem is still there not as bad but still there, i looked at all my u-joints and drivetrain, see nothing wrong anywhere.

ONLY one other thing im thinking. When I changed my rear diff oil, I remembered that it took less then what i took out. The reason of this is the angle/degree is different then factory because it lowered.

I added the modifier to 3 bottles of oil, but only a little over 2 bottles fit, what im thinking is i didnt get enough modifier in there?

I also read that some people are having issue like mine, and are adding a second bottle of modifier which i think is a bit much, but as it set right now im not 100% sure that i have one full tube of it.

This will be my next thing to try.

again the coils did need to be changed i felt a big power gain/difference, it was not a waste of time or money. will keep everyone updated

 

I believe it's 6 ounces of modifier, and it's only needed for the LS rear ends. At times it can take up to 75 miles to do you any good.

A 2007 needing coils already? How many miles?

 

Never mind, I see why you needed coils.

Yea, your suppose to be 1/2" down from the rear end filler hole.

 

Yeah long story with the coils. I got a good deal on accel coils, threw them on there. Never had any problem till i decided one day to change my t-stat back to stock another long story, that so happened to let cyl 5 fill up with water and next time i started it, it shorted out. Since the accels where higher voltage then stock, when the epoxy dripped out of the accel coil, the ecu went with it. I happened to have got a computer on ebay for $50 very lucky and ford reflashed it for $70 very very lucky. In the event that might happen again, I pulled the e3's and accel coils out, and switched to what i thout was good coils, and the sp-493 plugs.

The diff change was another long story not like above, when i had it custom lowered with use of a plasma cutter. Somehow I had a very small hole in the axle that me and the 3 other people didnt see. This was 2008 sometime. So one day my abs light comes on, of course i pull the rear sensor find metal on it, thout it was odd. So I pulled the fill plug, and couldnt feel any oil. Poured who owns what kind of oil i think it was 80w90 non-syn didnt know, this was my first ls. It just kept leaking didnt firgure out what was the real problem till late in 2008. Found a small hole on top of the axle. Fixed and still not knowing much, i did an oil change to get everything all cleaned up, ect. Put in 80w90 syn, with modifier, everything was fine. Found out later that still wasnt what was supposed to be in there. Everyone said it would be fine, so i left it be and never had no problems. I got board a few months ago and decided to put the 75w140 in it. This was at least beginning of this year, if not earlier.

So im thinking its that since its been one of the most recent things that has changed. I have my horror stories with this, the biggest problem is me. However it was the younger stupider me that thought he know it all. lol. I think that happens to all of us.

 

Im not sure that all 6oz is actually in there, thats good to know it could take that long, if i do add some and its not an instant effect, thanks.

Come to thank of it, when I changed the oil last time, I didnt notice this issue. I wonder if it took this long to wear off the older modifier to the point im just now noticing it. Its at least been about a month ago since I noticed it. I was guessing the coils because it seemed to have got worse after that one blew. Who knows? I would really like to find out though.

Thanks Again

 

Nope - easier ( given the same gap )

http://www.troyerperformance.com/cgi...catalogno=IT16

MGD

 

ok everyone, just an update of what i have done today, i have rotated back tires left right reason being the right rear is about gone, thout that might have something to do with it, the other side is almost new. i added about 4oz more of modifier/oil that already was mixed up, which bring it close to the 2.8 that i took out to start with. and finally i check the whole rear suspension, shackles, hangers, u-bolts, leaf pack bolts, ect. ill i need to do is drive it now and see if its still there. If it is that leaves only one other thing that i havent checked or fixed, which is the slip joint.

only other thing going thru my head is might be the actual plugs, there not all that old maybe year or 12k, but that doesnt always mean anything. other then that i have nothing else left to check or fix, hopefully i dont have to go that far.

 

Alright so after doing all the above drove it finally, and guess what the problem is still there. So i decided to take a plug out just to see, what i found lead to me removing all the plugs to make sure it was on all of them. I saw something i have yet to see. There was some kind of red/black stuff all over every plug.

Anyone have any ideal what this couldve been?

At first i thought it was rust but it looked like a burnt red color, almost like someone put red dye in my tank and it sprayed onto the plugs, thats my only thought. However I have a locking fuel door so i know that didnt happen either. SO i clean every plug check to be sure they was firing correct which they were, put them back in. While i was doing this i listened for a misfire or anything between, i heard a little backfire/pop every now and then at 2000rpm ish, thinking its that one remaining cheap coil i havent changed out yet. But that red dye looking stuff of the spark plugs is very interesting, its not rust. Im unsure what it was but its gone now.

I will be pulling the fuel filter off just to make sure there is nothing odd in the tank. I will test drive this is the morning on my way to work.

So my questions are does anyone have a clue about the red stuff on my plugs?
If i need to re-grease the slip-joint what the best stuff to use?
If it goes this far and the slip joint is not the issue, anyone have ideals? Cause thats the last thing on my list of could be's.
I dont think its the spring/axle wrap, my axle is on the top of the leafs due to a flip kit. Im not sure where to go next and Im slowly running out of ideals.

 

This won't be any help, but yea, I've seen it before. Just a picture from a lightning owner. In the picture, he had each plug sticking thru a piece of cardboard labeling what cylinder they came from and every one of them was red , like you explained.

Thing is, I can't recall why exactly. (?)

Well, at least you know it's happened before. Best I can do. Maybe MGD has something about that.

 

Can't find much on it. What I did find. -

Spark Plug Diagnosis - How to read the signs

Signs -

Normal: When the engine is running the way it should, normal-reading plugs will look pretty much the same way they did when they were new and first screwed into the engine block.

Normal, but with red coating: The red coating is a result of the additives in lower-quality unleaded fuel and will be visible on the plug's ceramic insulation. The red coating is not an indication of any engine problems.

The Link for this info - http://www.automedia.com/Spark_Plug_...cr20030701sp/1

 

that all i needed to know thanks, wonder if this has been my problem all along poor gas? Soon find out

 

What gas are you using?

 

i run 93 or so it says, lately been getting gas form sams club.

side note: the problem is still there. will be re-greasing the slip joint friday.