I think the key is less the impact and more the decarbonization from the Techron.

I await a buildup of experience on this. Not inherently against impacts, as I used them when I wrenched for a living, but I didn't have to deal with broken spark plugs. I'm interested to know, prior decarbonization aside, whether you are more or less likely to break them with or without the impact.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIQevez-DG0

www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3MPAPXBB6Y


note to the op....I don't agree with what's all being done or said in these videos....but they're posted to give you a general idea

 

I pretty much think that there's less breakage with impacts especially without decarbonization techniques being used....I always crack them and soak them before using the impact due to the possiblity of stripping the threads from the head....

 

I have removed many many spark plugs with the impact. The usable knowledge is aluminum expands so much more than steel it gives you the clearance needed to get the plug out without breaking them off. You want to get this job over an done with while the motor is still hot. Notice the PPE worn. Do not let the impact spin the plug after it is free of the threads, here is where the plug can booger the 1st thread and you have to chase it before the next new plug can start properly into the threads. You know of course the anti-seize to the spark plug and the extend part are necessary. If it wasn't applied before, the plug removal becomes a chore. You want a good spark plug socket tool to protect. Even so not everything is perfect all the time, just facts. The real problem comes with careful use. Putting the impact on set to tighten full power will always break stuff when you want to loosen stuff. If you notice on the 1st film it is a Ford Tech in a Ford shop, and the second film is a garage with a brazed together extension on a ratchet. Believe what you want. The Lisle removal is a good experience. LOL

 

Found it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIQevez-DG0

Crazy!!

 

When I changed mine, I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to Ľ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described.
As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.

 

One last question...carb cleaner or penetrating spray (ie...chemtool or PB Blaster)

 

carb cleaner.....

others have used pb blaster with success also....

 

Whatever you use, it must be something that will soften carbon deposits. It's not the lubrication ability that's (as) important. That's why Ford changed the TSB from Kroil to carb cleaner.

 

I know this thread is all about the 3V but would the tricks here also apply to the 2V?

 

The 2v is a standard plug, really no need to.

 

While the engineers can debate all day long about carb cleaner or not, the aircraft industry for 30 years specs the use of a lubricating product when removing steel from aluminum.....ie ChemSearch “Yield”.

 

so why do the heat shields need to be lubricated if the carbon deposites are making them stick?

 

I just used Kroil today. Worked like a charm and the deposits were both lubricated and soft. 2005 F-250 5.4 89,893 miles and this was its first plug change. I ran three bottles of Techron in a tank and a half and 32 oz of Lucas in a full tank for about a third of a tank.

 

I thought the 2V plugs also had a tendency to break on removal?