Help...dealership no help

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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #1  
godman's Avatar
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Help...dealership no help

I've taken my truck to a mobile mechanic and then to the Ford dealer to no avail.

I have a 99 F150, 5.4 L and auto trans. I will list all the characteristics that I have observed noting that 1 coil and all plugs have been replaced and the dealer replaced pcv line going out of the throttle body. I also replaced other hoses that looked to be suspect. When I took the truck back to the dealer they said everything checked out fine...no problem. I really do not want to take it back there again after realizing they charged me $350 to replace that simple little line that would take less than 5 minutes.

The truck always starts right up on cold starts. Most of the time it will start regardless, but occasionally it will not start when warmed up. After awhile it will eventually start. Sometimes in less than 5 minutes, but sometimes up to 1 1/2 hours.

A friend tried tapping on some sort of air flow valve that is attached to the pcv line that the dealer replaced and it started right up. (They did not replace this valve, btw.) I tried tapping it myself yesterday when it stalled and after about a dozen attempts, it finally started.

Most of the time (especially after cold starts) it runs great, then after 15 miles or so it will begin to run rough. When I give it more pedal, it continues to sputter for a few seconds and then will smooth out and race up. A couple of times it has died while at driving speeds but usually it dies when at lower speeds (when I don't respond quick enough to raising the rpm). I have gotten into the habit of keeping one foot on the brake and one on the gas when slowing down or at a stop so as to press on the gas if it begins to sputter. That usually works but occasionally it will not respond to the throttle and will go into a state of what I'd call, "dieseling". In this state, it is running but but bordering on dying and will not respond to the throttle. When it does this, I turn off the ignition after hitting the gas pedal several times.

Once the truck starts "acting up", from then on it will alternately run rough and then smooth and back and forth.

I need this truck for my contracting work, so fixing it is crucial. Myself and 5 other guys depend upon it to work so any help would be greatly appreciated.

One other side note, which may not be related is that this truck has aproximately 130K plus miles and was previously a fleet vehicle that also ran on propane. It still has the system on the truck but was diconnected for some reason. I live in Florida and can't find anyone licensed to even touch this system.

Thanks so much
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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From your description, I'd say the EGR valve is hanging. Most likely, the IAC valve is as well, intermittently.

Starts fine upon cold start = EGR popet valve had sufficient time to release.

Warm start or close to it = EGR valve partially stuck or open. Will cause no starts and stall @ idle. The EGR valve is only to engage @ cruising speeds. AND only opens a few seconds at one time. It isn't closing, this gets worse with time.

Like I said, the IAC is most likely hanging as well. Truck just needs some good maintenance.

I would also check the fuel pressure and listen for the pump to charge lines when you turn the key. If this doesn't happen EVERY TIME you key to run, - your pump or relay may be going south.

Basic troubleshooting would cancel a few things out. What has been done?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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^^^^x2
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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Only one coil replaced? Why not throw a whole set on there?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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godman's Avatar
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Thanks. I'm not a mechanic which means I have to rely upon others. I would assume that both the mechanic and the Ford dealer would do the troubleshooting. They claimed to have run a complete diagnostic and even some thing that read performance while test driving it. I don't feel like I can trust anything they say since the guy told me they had to remove alot of stuff on the engine and that this pcv line was very hard to get to when in fact all they had to do was remove the throttle body cover . Geuss they considered me a "lay down" and made it sound like it was a big job to justify the $350 bill.

The mobile mechanic "looked it over" and said the most likely cause/solution was the plugs and replacing one single coil. When I told him it didn't help he suggested going to the dealer.

Question...what about the valve thing at the end of the pcv line that is attached near the fire wall ? Is that the IAC valve ?

As for what's been done. Just the plugs, one coil and the one pcv line.
 
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