2004 F150 XLT 5.4 auto 4x4

Saturday while idling I felt the engine sputtering. Started driving (under 5-10 mph through a cut field) and it really started cutting out and died after about 200 yards. I got it to start back up but it barely made it the other 100 yard drive back to the house. Got it to the house and I changed the fuel filter. The truck started right up but immediately died and wouldn't restart. Code reader showed bank 1 and 2 both lean. Needing help trying to figure out what is wrong. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I get under the truck and have someone turn on the key. Could it be the fuel pump is running but not be building up enough pressure for it to run? Being it won't start I don't know how to check for vacuum leaks.

 

Forgot to add I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and no luck still. My neighbor has the same truck and I put the sensor in his to check it and it worked fine so that is also ruled out.

 

Fuel pressure test. Look for a massive vacuum leak.. PVC elbow.. Sounds like a fuel pressure problem though..

 

How do I test the fuel pressure? We couldn't find the schrader valve on the fuel rails.

 

Check the Fuel Pump Driver Module! Most of them on the 2004 and newer will go bad due to a design flaw. Do a search on this site an you'll find all the info you need.

Rockauto.com has them the cheapest. Drop your spare tire and it should only take 20 minutes to swap out.

 

Scooterdog, if the Fuel Pump Driver Module is out would I still hear my fuel pump turn on? Thanks for the info!

 

I had the same code come up, and it was my vacum lines - the PCV elbow didn't look split, but was perished - and also a bigger line (don't know what it is:o) that goes from the side of the throttle body, toward the drivers side fire wall - that was perished too. Replaced both just with water hose to check, and it cured the rough idle, and I didn't get the codes or light come back

 

You would most likely NOT hear the Fuel pump "chirp". But depending on how the circuit board cracked, it could come on and not regulate pressure. A quick visual inspection of the FPDM will let you know if it's time to replace anyways.

The best way to check fuel pressure on the 2004 and newer is a special coupling and a gauge. Harbor Fright sells a kit that will fit. 2004 and newer aren't known for the vacuum leaks like the older rides, can happen, not normal.

 

Where at on the truck/engine do I test the pressure at? Thanks again for the help!

 

Its on the fuel rail. on the divers side I think. there a cap on it..

 

Ok I'll look again. Me and my neighbor both looked on the rails but couldn't find it.

 

You need to disconnect the "quick coupling" on the drivers side and add in a special "t" that has both the female and male quick disconnects. That's why it takes a special kit.

follow the link and study the kit and you'll see what i'm talking about.

http://www.harborfreight.com/master-...kit-97706.html

Somebody out there might have a easier way of testing fuel pressure on the newer model rides, but the new fuel rails do not have the typical car tire shrader valve.

 

For the price of that gauge you could get a scan tool or scan gauge that will read the PID for fuel pressure in the PCM. Then you can use it for other diagnostics in the future. Just a thought.

Kev

 

I've got my father inlaws code reader. I'll try and see if that thing can read the fuel pressure.

 

2004 and after it was omitted....

Stupid that they did away with it...