No I know Motorcraft makes awsome plugs just they dont make a one piece plug and was wondering if chapion is a good plug for these trucks so i dont Half to worry about it braking i am gonna do the carbon vac when I pull them oh and awsome truck twinskrewd

 

I think like you do and have been running Champions for a couple of years now in my '05. Good results. If you go that route, make sure you replace the COP boots because the Champion plugs have a different profile on the porcelain and you want a good fit there to avoid spark jumping or carbon tracking. The old boot will heat age and take on the profile of the old plug.

I replaced my plugs at 20K miles and none broke, though I do use a Top Tier gas and carbon was minimal. Based on the research I've done, I'm fairly satisfied that the antisieze trick works most times on the MC/Autolites but given the PITA of broken plugs, and that the MCs are really no better than the Champs in making spark, a one-piece is the way to go for a 100 percent no-break situation... IMO.

 

ok man thanks for the info I will def have the boots replaced once I reach 250k I am gonna do a motor rebuild anyway thinking about supercharging so I just need something to lady another while

 

The SP-507 and SP-515 are both finewire platinums (single platinum, only the center electrode is platinum). I posed these photos in another thread:

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When I changed my plugs, I found the previous owner had installed Champions. After installing the MC SP-515's, idle was much smoother, and
better throttle response.



This is what the Champions looked like:


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Not sure what conclusions we are supposed to draw from this without context. The Champions look like they were improperly gapped and "chewed" on. The one plug in the closeup looks like it was run with too much timing advance or very lean.

These are seriously great images. What camera/lens did you use?

 

Thanks Jim!


These photos were taken with a Nikon D300 & Nikon 105mm f/2.8 VR lens.

Some of the photos in the other thread were taken with a Nikon D3S & Nikon 24 70mm f/2.8 lens.

 

Takeda: Thought so! I've used Nikons for decades and have a "million shot" D200 that has been trouble free (other than being dropped on a shop floor once... ahem!).

Anyway, what about the Champions? I'm searching your posts to see if you had something else contextual about them. My wife is sucking up all the bandwidth watching an online movie right now, so that's going very slow. The ground straps on some look like they've had pliers used on them and they are obviously incorrectly gapped. Of course a new set of spark plugs would make the truck run better if that they way they were installed.

 

It's good to meet another Nikon fan! My first Nikon DSLR was a D70, purchased in January 2005, which I still use along with my D300, and D3S.
I have found you get the best color, contrast, and sharpness from Nikon
pro glass.


My F-150 was bought used, so the previous owner installed the Champions. I have personally had very poor luck with Champions in various vehicles, the worst was a Volvo 1800E. Bad misfire only a couple thousand miles after installed new. OEM was Bosch, but I found NGK lasted the longest. I agree
that whoever installed the Champions in my F-150 did a poor job.

 

Nikons: Agree. I use the Nikons for my work so their cost comes outta my paycheck. Early on I tried to save a little money by going with Tamron lenses. Had good results with that in the film days but not after upgrading to digital. Marked difference in the optics between a Tamron and a Nikon on a DSLR IMO. Nikon optics only for me! My favorite lens is the 28-200 zoom. Many of my peers use Canon and it's pretty hard to knock them... I'm just so familiar with Nikons. I went kicking and screaming from film to digital in about 2002 but the familiarity of the Nikon controls made the transition easy. I was lucky and sold all but one of my film cameras (including a couple of large and medium formats) for decent money before the bottom fell out. Still have a D90 film camera that was just too worn out and beat up to sell. I used to call it the "brick craphouse" camera. I put uncounted rolls of film thru that thing over about 10 years. Never missed a beat! An old freind and makes a good paperweight. RIP Kodachrome!

Champions: I understand It's hard to get past the bias of the past. I too had bad experiences with them in the past ('60s, '70s and especially in the ugly '80s when I wrenched for a living) but they really are a different company now and I think the Champs are every bit as good as the Autolite/MCs in our application. There have been some very heated debates over that here, if you go back and search. I don't think the Champs are "better," and their limited heat range selection doesn't make them the best choice in a modified engine, but they have the advantage of not ever breaking off. The Allied-built plugs are still two piece and can still break off... even if it's less likely if you add the anti-sieze. I miked the barrels of on of my original '05 plugs and a new one... didn't see a difference... so I don't know where the rumors came from that they reduced the diameter. Still researching that.

Anyway, I believe in being as fair and objective as possible in presenting information so seeing your (great) pics without any sort of explanation or context, I wanted to follow up to make the situation clear.

 

after 151,000 miles I decided to replace the infamous plugs since the engine was sputtering on the highway. 1 of the 8 plugs came out unbroken.
the other 7 plugs needed a small miracle to move them out. I purchased the Lisle tool for Triton 3 valve engines. The tool saved the day. All the remains were removed in about 4 hours of labor. 2 of the plugs had severed electrodes which remained in the engine in the ceramic tip. The Lisle tool was able to smash the electrode and ceramic enough for the removal tool to grip and pull out the remains.

I used a heat gun to warm the heads just before inseerting the removal tool.
After letting the heads warm and spraying a little penetrating oil in the hole, Insert the removal tool and begin the tighten the extraction bar into the remains. once the extraction bar starts to thread in you will feel the gripping of the left hand threads. tighten up the jacking nut and begin the pulling process. I used a shop vacuum with fuel line taped on the hose to clean the debris out of the port out after plug was removed.

Can't seem to get picture to post with this message. I'll try again...
Jeff W

 

Sounds like what the Brits call a "Bloody Nightmare!" Sounds like you exhibited a great deal of patience.

I hope you can post some pics and especially a shot of that 151K intact plug. Must've had a gap you could drive a Mack truck thru.