You're probably already done with it by now? lol

If not, then I'm not in Chicago but let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help. There are several good write-ups that should give you everything that you need to know. Hardest part is just taking all of the stuff off to get there. Have some swivel sockets and a good assortment of extensions and just make sure that you mark things well before you take the chain off and you shouldn't have any problems.

A few things that aren't in the write-ups:

- You don't have to clear/disconnect the AC lines. If you unbolt the mount at the front and unbolt at the rear where the dryer is then you can push them out of the way enough to get the cover off. It's tight but doable and will save some bucks.

- If you pull the passenger-side fender liner then that will make it easier to get to some of the valve cover bolts toward the rear and the both that holds on the tube for the trans dip-stick. It's only a few fasteners to take it off. I thought that was easier myself.

- In addition to the wedge, I had a spool of twist-tie wire that I used as a safety to tie off the chain so that it couldn't fall/slip. I think that was helpful working by myself since there were a few times when you kind of want three hands.

- If you have some way to jam the phaser sprocket and keep it from turning when torquing it down that probably would be a good idea. It's a good amount of torque by the time you do the final 1/4 turn over and I think that I stretched my chain a little. I never heard any chain noise before, but after I did a little. Could have just been that the motor was so noisy before that I just didn't hear it. They have a tool that bolts on and mates fits into the teeth but I don't know the cost and I'm not sure how you manage using it and getting the chain on there at the same time. In any case, no big deal but just FYI.

- The index pin on the back of the phaser that fits into the end of the cam is not secured. It's just sitting in a slot and it can come out. When I pulled the passenger-side phaser in mine that pin stayed in the end of the cam and it took a while for me to figure out why I couldn't get the phaser sprocket to fit back up right. Finally happened to look at the old one and noticed that the pin was missing. Then when I pulled the half-on phaser back off, the pin fell out and down into the motor! Fortunately I had a magnet and just happened to get lucky and got it first try. lol I doubt that you'll have a problem but just so that you're aware. I think that was the trouble with the phaser on that side - the pin was stuck.

Anyway, good luck with it.

 

Thanks Nike.
I managed to get the passenger side done this weekend. You aren't kidding about it being a PITA to get everything off. I went ahead and had the AC system recovered but probably could have done without it. I am going to try and finish up the drivers side today. I did the pass. side by myself but an extra set of hands would have been nice. When I finally wiggled the phaser off the cam rotated some because of the pressure and scared me at first. Thought the wedge didn't hold but everything looks ok I think(fingers crossed)

After looking at everything I didn't see anything in the valve train that looks bad, from a visual viewpoint. No metal shavings anywhere in the head, no sludge, and wear patterns on the cam lobes all look similar. Once I get it back together I might have to take the old phasers apart and see what they look like. I did notice one pin that holds the spring out is different then the new one. From what I can tell the tensioners and guides look to be in decent condition but hard to tell, wish i had a small camera to drop down there. I will let you if I was successful tomorrow.

Kev

 

OK, sounds good then. The driver's side is a breeze compared to the passenger side. You shouldn't have any trouble. You've got the hardest part done now.

The cam's under spring pressure so it will seek relief and move a bit on the lobe. Possible I guess but normally it shouldn't be enough movement to get you a full tooth over either way. As long as your marks line up exactly then you should be OK.

Biggest pain on the driver's side is that damn bracket for the power steering pump. I'm still looking for the guy who designed that thing. lol Again, if you have any trouble getting to it, then you might pull the fender liner. I did it without but it was a pain. Just one bolt but it's one of those things that you keep thinking that it should be coming out but it just doesn't. You don't have to completely remove the bolt (and probably don't want to since that will be even harder to get back on again). Once you're past that then you're in good shape.

Note that the wedge won't fit quite the same way on the passenger side. Same idea just a slightly different angle. It's a minor difference but I did that side first and I was kinda wondering if I had it in there right since it didn't look exactly like the pictures that I'd found. You've done the other side though now so you know how it should go.

I took one of my phasers apart and posted the pics and a description of what's inside at one point. The forum's running so slow for me at the moment that I don't have the time to search for it right now but if you do then you should find it. Not much to look at inside really. Just a series of chambers/vanes in the center which can move independent of the sprocket that are filled with oil to push the position of the cam when under pressure.

Again, good luck with it.

 

Well I managed to get it finished up last night. HAd my neighbor help me which was nice. Went much faster with an extra set of hands helping out. Drivers side is easier but the whole thing was a pain in the rear.

From what I can tell so far it seems better. I let it come up to operating temps last night and only drove it a few miles. Seems ok. Took the long way to work this morning and got on the highway for 8-10 miles and it seems more consistent with the power and I it wasn't pinging at all which is always a good thing.
The only thing was it started funny this morning. I think that is more related to the starter though, it had that kinda screech sound when starting like there is boogered up tooth on the starter or flywheel and it didn't catch right. I shut it off when i got to work and tried starting it again. Fired right up. The starter has been working overtime the last month or so since it has been hard to start. I guess I just need to get some miles on it and see how things go.
I am assuming there is no break-in I need to worry about with the phasers.
Again appreciate the help and I am keeping my fingers crossed that solved most of the problems.

Kev

 

Spoke to soon. I don't even know where to start anymore.

Hard starting , pinging.. I think. Seems to ping right before shifts or while it shifts. Power seems to surge if you get on it. It goes, goes, goes and when you hit right around 4k rpm it seems to get more power , or like the cam finally caught up. Extremely frustrated at this point. The only thing that is not stock on the motor is the set of under drive pulleys, Can't imagine that would cause any of this.

 

Well still dealing with these issues. Decided to take it to another dealer. They couldn't find much but said there is low compression on Cylinder 2. Not sure how they came to that conclusion without doing an actual compression check. I asked how they could tell and he said the diagnostic test they ran showed the that cylinder being off. They want to rip into the motor and I can't see doing that unless they have some kind of hard evidence that would justify it. I checked compression on that cylinder and few others and they are within a few pounds of each other. Although I just read that all the plugs should be removed so I may need to go back and re-do the test. Dealers seem to think it is something mechanical but I would think if it was a mechanical issue the severity of the problems would be more consistent. I have noticed that the pinging only happens when the everything is up to operating temp. Lately I have noticed if you step on the gas it seems to bog slightly and then all of sudden it picks up and goes, usually after 3200-3500 rpms. Almost like the cams are slow to react. If anyone has any tips I am all ears.
Kev

 

Well wanted to report back that I think I finally have resolved the problem. I always hate searching through peoples threads and you get to the end and they never report what the outcome was.
After researching local mechanics and going to them to discuss the problems I finally found one that seemed knowledgeable and willing to diagnose the problem for me. Before I took it to him the truck was stalling at every light or stop sign and was just not running right. I would get a p0011 sometimes and sometimes a p0022. Both codes for timing problems. My theory was either timing chain skipped a tooth and/or chain tensioners not working properly. They essential confirmed my suspicions with the timing off by a tooth. They said they were 99% sure that was it so I elected to have the front cover removed to further diagnose the problem. They found one stretched chain, broken guides, one tensioner not operating correctly and the tone ring on the crank had over 3/16 slop on the key way. That confirmed the pinging I was hearing was not detonation but the chains slapping the case and the tone ring making noise. So now I have new phasers and all new timing components, Runs like a champ now. I appreciate the help from Mike A. Wished I could have fixed this myself but the cold weather and lack of time prevented that. I did however find a decent honest mechanic which seems harder to find these days.