99 f250 5.4L runs rough on acceleration fall on its face

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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 08:38 PM
  #16  
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Thanks for the help guys finally got it figured out. It was ignitoin coil number 2. When we hooked it back up to the scan tool it was still reading no codes went into mode 6 and found out the ignition coil number 2 was missfiring 12.63 percent of the time lol you were right about the coil jbrew thanks
 
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bowhunter99
Thanks for the help guys finally got it figured out. It was ignitoin coil number 2. When we hooked it back up to the scan tool it was still reading no codes went into mode 6 and found out the ignition coil number 2 was missfiring 12.63 percent of the time lol you were right about the coil jbrew thanks
I'm curious if you actually did what he said way back? Did you buy the set of coils and replace them all? Did you get a bad one? Wondering why you found the bad coil now and all when they told you in the beginning... or you got a bad one...
 
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #18  
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Yes I ACTUALLY did what he said and I got a bad coil or I could have done something wrong on installation that caused that coil to fail and the dealership found out the problem the regular garages didn't look in mode 6 obviously how come in no matter what forum you read there is that one jerk that calls you out and tries to make you look bad just because he thinks he knows more than everyone else this is my thread buddy don't post on it again. I don't like people calling me a liar because I am not one it was a combination of different mechanics telling me different things. Thank you and I hope I answered you sufficiently
 
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bowhunter99
Thanks for the help guys finally got it figured out. It was ignitoin coil number 2. When we hooked it back up to the scan tool it was still reading no codes went into mode 6 and found out the ignition coil number 2 was missfiring 12.63 percent of the time lol you were right about the coil jbrew thanks
Yea "Mode 6" = Cylinder History. It's the misfire monitor count info. Yea, those damn coils can play games with yuh. It's a PITA figuring out without a machine that retrieves that data.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jethat
I'm curious if you actually did what he said way back? Did you buy the set of coils and replace them all? Did you get a bad one? Wondering why you found the bad coil now and all when they told you in the beginning... or you got a bad one...
I thought of that way back lol. With all the people getting bad coils right out of the box now a days, yuh have to give him the benefit of doubt. Time lapse between posts proves mail order and install about right.

What bugs me is that Ford has had the same problem with Motorcraft coils. The dealership sends the coils back to Ford. Ford has always said that 50% of the coils sent back to them are good. That's ALL they say.
So what are they calling good ? What testing is actually done ? Are they stress testing or are they just testing Primary/Secondary? Well, they don't say of course. Since the Rotunda kit came into the picture, dealerships have stress testing capabilities now.
That's for bench testing. Mode 06 is thru Data Link. In turn, what some dealerships have done (the good ones), they will stress test a new coil before install, since coil integrity has been the issue. Stress test = Load testing.

Good for them, but it can still be a guessing game for us with Low Grade misfire issues. What is the best we can do ? We have a couple choices, either bring the vehicle in to pinpoint the bad coil IF we don't have a CEL or take our chances with a new low cost set from a Ebay store. It's about $85 or so for the dealership just to to tell you which coil is bad. It's about the same cost for a complete set NEW from Ebay. The dealership will charge as much as $90 just for one coil lol.

IMO, it's worth the effort to replace them all with a new set from Ebay. Since the odds are currently,still in your favor.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #21  
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Quick Question

Originally Posted by jbrew
Update to Motorcraft plugs only and purchase a set of DG508's from Global Automotive on Ebay. Purchase the V10 pack. Tighten new plugs to 28'lbs/ Grease up your coils well and she should run like a new truck. You have to do exactly as I said tho, -for best results.
I am having this same issue (99 F150 5.4l). I have done just about everything other than the plugs and COPs mostly because I have not had a CEL either. Thanks to Google I found this forum. I only have one question before I proceed. Would you need to buy the V-10 pack to ensure you have 2 extra in case one is bad?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Nieman
I am having this same issue (99 F150 5.4l). I have done just about everything other than the plugs and COPs mostly because I have not had a CEL either. Thanks to Google I found this forum. I only have one question before I proceed. Would you need to buy the V-10 pack to ensure you have 2 extra in case one is bad?

no it's not required but it's a good idea
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 03:11 AM
  #23  
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Having an issue

I have a 99F150 4X4 5.4L. The engine was just completely rebuilt. After a few hours of driving it my wife has complained about a popping sound under acceleration out of the exhaust. I go home on September 11 and plan to go through it again. Any ideas is very appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 12:26 AM
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1997 f250 ld 5.4l

I read this post and would like to see if anyone in the original thread could respond to my problem. The problem is similar I rebuilt my engine and it idles fine but as soon as I press the gas it misses and no code. The truck starts quick and easy. I have had a person think that the timing may be off but I am hopeful that it is a COP which is bad. Please let me know your thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 12:28 AM
  #25  
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BTW all new plugs, ignition coils and injectors.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 07:54 PM
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From: missing Texas...
all plugs, coils and injectors are not created equal
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 11:36 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by smithlr08
I read this post and would like to see if anyone in the original thread could respond to my problem. The problem is similar I rebuilt my engine and it idles fine but as soon as I press the gas it misses and no code. The truck starts quick and easy. I have had a person think that the timing may be off but I am hopeful that it is a COP which is bad. Please let me know your thoughts?
Stick a fuel pressure gauge on there on see whats happening with that. Shold be close to 40 psi. You may have to have the engine scanned with a good scanner. Dealer or a snapon.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 12:30 PM
  #28  
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Finally resolved

Well, I appreciate the response to my post. It turns out I had to finally go to a shop so Mode 6 could be scanned and found out I had a loose connection on cylinder #2 misfire. The problem was that the connection on the injector was not tight enough. Once connection was secure the truck ran great.
Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 07:28 PM
  #29  
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HELP...I am getting to blow this bloody thing up. I have a 1999 Expedition XLT 4.6 it is beautiful has 3" lift and brand new 35" mudders i bought it about 3 months ago and it was lacking a bit of power i figured plugs maybe a sensor or 2. A couple weeks ago it just kept getting worse and worse i thought maybe fuel pump but it checked out fine at the fuel rails and i changed the filter to be safe. I also replaced maf sensor still didnt help so then i checked out the iac valve it checked out fine but none the less i took it off and gave it a good cleaning. While i was in there i decided to check the tps sensor it seemed to be sending a bit of an erratic signal so what the hell i changed that as well. Still didnt help at all So i thought maybe a vacuum leak so i did the old carb cleaner trick and couldnt find anything so i stepped it up another notch and went with the propane torch and hose trick still couldnt find a vacuum issue anywhere. So now i checked the hooked up the egr again because it was deleted when i bought the vehicle i thought maybe that would change something but still nothing. I used my cheap obd2 reader the kind that runs thru your phone and that was pulling P0141 and P0161 codes which makes sense because the 2 back cats were deleted when i bought the truck. however i borrowed my friends Innova 3150 today and did a KOER test and managed to find a few more codes. I am not to worried about the P1703 or P1000 codes but i also have P1127, P1780, P1137, P1158, Plus i am still showing the P0141 and P0161. Like i said earlier the rear cats were removed when i bought the vehicle and the rear sensors are not hooked up to anything they are just tucked up behind the transfercase. The truck starts, idles beautiful But soon as i put it under load it just falls flat on its face no power at all wont even rev over 2000rpm under load. I also pulled the front o2 sensors out to see if anything changed at all i thought maybe the cats were plugged but that didnt change anything either....Thank you in advanced for any help anyone can offer as to what the problem is
 
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 10:22 PM
  #30  
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I have the same problem with my 98 f150 5.4 triton. One day out of frustration, I held it in low gear and smashed the gas. After about 20 seconds it felt like it just blew the carbon out, and ran great. Next day ran like crap again, so I repeated the procedure and it fixed it again, I can’t figure it out
 
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