Have a '00 F150 - 5.4L. I guess because of the low # of threads on the Al heads, everyone seems to say "be sure to torque the plugs to correct specs."

Where do you relatively easily find a short enough torque wrench to torque the plugs on these engines - espec. ones in back? Hard enough getting any kind of wrench back there, even w/ universal joints, etc.

Technically, I didn't think you were supposed to use extensions w/ torque wrenches, much less univ. jts. By the time you (have to) use a 7" ext., that might affect the reading.

Until this engine, never used a torque wrench in 45 yrs for any plugs on any vehicle - Al or Fe heads. Never stripped one or had one come loose, but then, I guess they had more than 4 - 5 threads in the hole. Is it really that critical to torque it to exactly between 7 - 14 / 15 ft lbs for these engines?

Thanks.

 

That was fords specifications. And we have seen how that worked out, too many times. New recommended specs are 28ft/lbs dry. The motorcraft plugs for these are nickle plated non corrosive. Less need for anti-seize. There has yet to my knowledge been any blow outs with these specs (28ft/lbs dry) for years. I use a craftsman torque wrench, 5-80ft/lbs 3/8". I don't remember what extensions I used last time but it wasnt much. I make as much room as possible by removing things and zip tie them up out of the way. Unplug all of the cop's and injectors and pull the harness back... etc Tape the extension to the plug socket and drop it into the well, hand tighten the plug till it seats. Then reach the TQ wrench back there and attach it using the extension needed. A straight 6" extension won't alter the torque specs enough to worry about. Joints are a different story. Thing is, on a plug.. getting it anywhere in the 25-30 ft/lbs range is the idea. It does not have to be exactly "28ft/lbs" as long as it is as close as you can get it given the circumstances.

 

It's critical NOT to torque them that low. 28' lbs or 1/2 - 3/4 turn after seat.

 

Thanks to both.
Guess I could go buy a 3/8" torque wrench. It'd drive me crazy trying to use my 1/2" drive for this. Guess I could rely on 40+ yrs of knowing when plugs were tight enough, but don't want any blowing out.

If they weren't insanely hard to get to, could retorque them in 15 min, every so often on a Sat.

 

They take about an hour, just to get to lol.

 

An extension on a torque wrench is not going to affect the amount of torque it is putting out. You could have a 500' extension on the torque wrench and it will still be 20ft-lbs with or without it. Ft-lbs is in rotational force, the extension is rotating with the force, so it wont matter. Hell even if you used an extension made of twizzlers, the torque wrench would twist the twizzlers into a rope and would break away when the twizzlers had the proper amount of rotational force twisting them. Thats all torque sticks for impact wrenches are basically. As far as Universal joints go though, that i don't know how it will affect it.

 

Preach it brother!
I tried to do the passenger side plogs and cops last weekend. Only was able to get to 1, 2 & 3. Ran out of patience to get to 4 its now on the "roundtoit" list since #3 was the one with a missfire.

Anyone have tricks on what needs to move to get to the driver side plugs and cops?

 

Drivers side -Take the fuel rail loose and flip it up onto the intake, -or you'll spend twice the time working around the damn thing . Lay rags down first. Remove the brake booster hose as well.

 

i unplug the fuel injector wire connector next to the cop bolt i am taking off and use a 1/4 ratchet (smaller size fits nicely) to take bolt off. each cop needs a different setup of extensions to get above or under what is in your way. once you brake the bolt loose take the ratchet off and turn extention with your fingers if there is limited space for a ratchet to be turned. same thing for plugs, (3/8) it can be anoying turning the ratchet in a tight spot so i use my fingers as much as i can.

 

I change out the #4 and 8 first...Hardest to get to but once they're done thats all of the hard part. I personally haven't had to use any swivels or pull the fuel rails to get to the cop bolts, but i make sure to duct tape the 1/4" socket to the extension when i remove the cop bolt to prevent it from pulling off and falling into no mans land and i tape both the extension to socket and socket to the cop bolt when putting them back into the intake bolt hole so i can easily thread it back in and pull it off the bolt. Just make sure to wrap only 1 time around the socket/bolt connection so it pulls off before the extension/socket connection.

 

This guy has a 5.4L, not a 4.6. I gave you what's easier for the 5fours. Other guys are mixing it up with their 4six experiences. The 4six is different , ALL YEARS when changing the plugs.

 

Im talking 5.4

 

I call BS, I have one to. #7 is impossible without taking te rail loose.

 

Bs you can call, but ive got all 8 cops out without unbolting either side of the rails.....Ive had to unbolt the power steering res to get to some of them (cant recall which) Do you have a pic of how the drivers side rail prevents you from removing #7? Not calling you a liar, but i dont recall removing the rails other than my first time changing the plugs....

 

Yea, we are referring to plugs