My 5.4L is running poorly, check engine light appears. I previously owned a 97 F-150 5.4L that I put 300k miles on. I would occasionally have problems with the plugs and coils. I believe this is the same problem.

I purchased a code scanner/reader, but when I plug it into the port, I get a blank screen, it doesn't activate. The scaner/reader seems to be ok as I checked in on my wifes car and it operates/functions as it should.

What could be the problem? Help!!!

 

my friend had a light on his 04 silverado so he took it to autozone to be scanned. it didnt turn on becasue he had a blown fuse that controlled the port. he replaced the fuse and the scanner worked. try seeing if a fuse is blown, in the cab and under the hood.

 

Thanks, I did find a blown fuse. #102 I think it was, a blue 20amp fuse. I'll have to run down a replacement.

AJD

 

What is the plug gap? I failed to ask when I picked up my plugs.

Thanks,
AJD

 

The Motorcraft/Autolite plugs are pregapped, and due to the nature of the electrodes are not adjustable. You DO understand the sticking and breakage issues, and you have a copy of the latest TSB, and access to an extraction tool, right?

 

Things have changed, I saw that (the no gap thing) when I finally got around to reading the box. Duhhh!

It's been a while.

I am about 2/3 done. Still have cyl 3 and 4 to do. I believe I can get to number 3, but don't seen how in the world to get to #4. I got shut down because of rain.

And no glc, I don't have any of those items.


Is there a trick I'm missing?

Thanks for the help.

 

You really shouldn't be attempting a plug change in a 5.4 3v without being prepared. The TSB has a specific procedure to follow to minimize the likelihood of plugs breaking on you, and the Lisle extractor tool will be needed if/when you do break one.

You will need some good carburetor cleaner and some high-temp nickel antiseize compound.

 

Ok got em all out and back in except one. Of course it's the back left, the #4? I believe. The socket keeps slipping off the plug.

Any advice or tips on getting that one out. Right now I've a mind to just leave it alone.

I've stripped off everything around, but the AC lines keep interfering, what a pain.

Any advice, tips, special tools help would be most appreciated. I hate to come this far and get stymied.

AJD

 

I have it all back together and it is running like new. I didn't find anything that looked like a problem, and I didn't replace any COP. I did replace 7 of 8 plugs, I never could get that #4 plug out.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I hope you used high temp nickel antiseize on the ground sleeves on the new plugs.......

Go take it in to someone experienced in 3v plug changes and get that #4 out of there.

 

I did use the anti seize.

The shudder and studder is back. It disappeared on the test now it's back.

I did get a code tonight a P0302.

Which I understand is a #2 Cylinder miss.

Does this code indicate a plug or the COP?

The problem with the #4 is that I couldn't keep the plug socket on the plug, keeps slipping off. Someone mentioned there may be something in the plug tunnel holding the socket off the hex nut.

I've ordered and Turbosocket, if I can't get it out by trying to blow out the plug tunnel, I'll try that.

Carb cleaner of PB blaster?

Thanks!

 

I did use the anti seize.

The shudder and studder is back. It disappeared on the test now it's back.

I did get a code tonight a P0302.

Which I understand is a #2 Cylinder miss.

Does this code indicate a plug or the COP?

The problem with the #4 is that I couldn't keep the plug socket on the plug, keeps slipping off. Someone mentioned there may be something in the plug tunnel holding the socket off the hex nut.

I've ordered and Turbosocket, if I can't get it out by trying to blow out the plug tunnel, I'll try that.

Carb cleaner or PB blaster?

Thanks!

 

Did you use dielectric grease when you replaced the cop?

The latest TSB says to use carb cleaner.

 

You betcha!

Thanks!