Hey guys,
I've had a few threads up lately on my engine problems and now im getting around to fixing it. I can't seem to find a good walk through for the whole process with a 4.6.

Im wondering what has to be removed and what should not be removed during the process. I have no problems with the passengers side as its very simple, but im a little overwhelmed looking at all the wires pipes and other things in the way of the cops and plugs

Any links or good direction would be great!

 

remove your intake and TB cover.

do yo have wires or COP? i forget what year they went to COP

get a 6" extection with another 3". you have to take the fuel rail off with 2 8MM bolts then remove the COP's 7MM then finaly you can get to the plug it self.

make sure when your putting it back togtehr your fuel rail seats right. otherwise you'll have a leak.

its really not that bad i did a plug change on a 5.4 expy and a V-10 excursion

Good luck

 

I no for the passenger side I dont need to take the fuel rods out I've taken those cops out before, but I really wasn't sure about this side, thanks for the info!

Dielectric grease on the boots of the cop? Any brand in particular? And is there anything that I need besides dielectric grease?

 

do you have 2 coil packs with wires or COP? i think they went to COP in late 99 so you have COP.

Yes the COP are right under the rail on the driver side its a PITA.

also plug number 8 *last one* you'll fight the firewall and the EGR crap. its a pain.

the frist one is kind of intresting to get to. you can use the extetions or unbolt your Power steering resavor and move it over slighty.

Good luck hope this helped.

 

sorry yes I do have cops, and thanks the info was great I've never done a plug change or even messed with the cops on that side of the engine I was clueless completely before your posts

 

Glad i could help.

ive done countless plug changes with my 4.6...*i think 5* and ive done 2 plug changes on a 5.4 with COP and one plug change on a V-10 with COP.

i could prob do it in the dark now lol.

 

I changed mine today. I had left my hood up and it poured. Went out next morning, saw the hood up and knew it was not a good thing. Missing really bad. hoped it would clear up, but no bananas. When I blew out the #5 plug today, water flew out. First inch or so of the spring is discolored from submerssion. When I was looking down #6 with a flashlight, a leaf floated by my head and right down into the cylinder. didn't even touch the threads, nothing but air. Cut the bottom off a plastic bottle, taped to my shop vac hose, put a piece of 5/8" copper tube in that, and finished it with a piece of rubber hose and went diving. Found it to be a great setup to clean around the injector grommets b4 putting them back in. I didn't remove the air intake. Socket that has rubber for plugs will get stuck in the hole. Either secure the socket on an extension, use a regular socket, or fight to get it out. Blow out hole good. good time to check vacuum hoses as you disconnect them to move out of they way. they move out of the way nicely. 28 lbs torque on the new plugs. Motorcraft Platinum appears to be the choice here. cops are made to wiggle, don't overtighten.

I read alot b4 doing it, and went in a little intimidated. When I looked at all the crap in the way, I was thinking maybe the dealer was sounding ok. But its not bad, take your patience with you and you'll b fine. #6 is still misfiring. Need a new cop i guess.
btw, I contacted local ford dealer and qouted my 2003 5.4l. __$250 parts & labor + $50 dollars per hour for broken plugs. Service guy obviously assumed that I had the 3V setup. Glad I took it on myself. Saved a good bit.

 

Practice makes perfect. I have 1, 6 and 8 misfiring its such a horrible ride I just cant wait to get the plugs and cops in.

Thats how I felt when I put up the thread, intimidated by the ammount of crap over those plugs but Im sure Ill figure it out

 

If the 4.6 has the same design fuel rails as the 5.4, get the injector o-rings just in case they disintegrate when you remove the rails. That's happened to me before.

 

Fuel rails do NOT need to be removed!

 

I always remove mine. Not that big of a deal and it makes access easier..

 

they dont HAVE to be. but it makes it so much easyer and its only 2 8MM bolts.

 

Pull out 2 bolts and just pull the rail out? as simple as that?

 

yep.

 

if its that simple I may as well do it