It sounds like you had multiple problems going on but it’s now down to just an idle problem.
My 2004 had an idle problem that was fixed with a cleaning of the MAF sensor.
The COPs or COP boots may also be a cause for poor idle.

 

Well changed the VCT and it helped. Still idles low, about 4-600 but does not die. I am not really sure where to go from here unless it is to change the other side. I guess I am going to drive it for a couple days and see how it reacts and go from there.

 

Did you disconnect the battery so the PCM can relearn?

 

Well it was better at first but now the problem is back. Still dieing at idle once it warms up. No check engine light yet but I think I am going to go ahead and change the other VCT Solenoid like I should have to begin with. The thing is when you stop and it goes to low idle and dies it sounds like crap. I am starting to wonder if it is not the engine.

 

Yep

 

OK I changedthe second VCT Solenoid and it helped but not fixed. It idles around 400-500 but does not die like it was. I am thinking Bigbronc is right about the tensioners. I was really hoping not but with 160,000 it is probably something that I will need soon anyway. Does anyone else have any input?

 

I did tensioners and phasers this weekend. Mine runs 100 percent better ( Quiet and smooth)however it has gone into a ruff idle a couple of times when backing up a heavy trailer up a slight incline. I didn't do the solenoids..... The vacum line from the brakes to the back of the engine came off at the back and was a real pain in the A** to back get on... I will be more careful with that if I ever take that valve cover off again. Took about 3 hours..used a snap on camera. An "0" ring was gone on one of the tensioners.

 

hello there
i have to say that i am so glad i read this post . i went through the same thing to the t as you are and with the outstanding help from here my 04 5.4
is running better than when i got it in 06. this is what i replaced: both cam phasers, both vct selenoids, both tensioners,tensioner arms and both guides
i also cleaned the vct selenoid valve body (very easy by the way) the whole repair cost me around 800. and ford wanted 3k or better.so trust me its worth listening to the good folks on here

 

Keep us posted!

 

Well I got the parts in to do the tesioners and cam phasers. Started taking stuff off and realized that I pulled one of my da mistakes. When I changed the drivers side solenoid I forgot to plug it back in. WOW that helped some. Truck seems to be running great but still will not idle after warming up. If you just start it and let it set it will level out aorund 5-600. Give it a little gas though and it will drop 2-300 and then dies. Same thing driving. After it get warmed up when you stop it dies. Still thinking I am going to do the front end stuff but not sure that will fix it.

 

Well here is the update. I pulled the valve covers and timing chain cover to find major sludge build up. So bad it was beyond anything I could deal with. After looking for a used motor, checking the options of a factory replacement I opted to take it to Mac Weld for a complete rebuild. $3300 but it comes back with a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty. We have it 3/4 of the way back in as of last night. Waiting on a new power steering pump pulley that we bent taking it off. Other than that so far so good on the re-install. I will let you guys no how it runs after we get finished.

 

OK we got the engine in everything conected started first time fine at first but now it is running rough. It does not want to stay at idle and sounds like it has a bad miss problem. We let it run for 20 minutes and it will not throw any codes. We have been over everything twice and cannot find any missed connections or anything. It almost seems like a fuel/air problem but we cannot figure out why. Anyone have any ideas?