Long story: I knew I had a bad alternator, but as long as I charged up the battery occasionally, I could at least get it started. Sometimes after turning the key it would click/clunk, but after I did it a couple times, it would usually fire right up.

So, I finally thought I'd replace the alternator, but when I went to move it to the garage, it wouldn't start. Battery is charged and the dash lights up, but all it does is click/clunk (not the rapid click-click-click-click-cllick).

So, what should I look at?

Jim

 

Starter would be my first suspect, especially if the dash lights do NOT dim when turning the key to START.

 

Check your starter solenoid. Cheap and easy to replace.

 

Yep. The solenoid or connections are the likely source of that problem. Short the big post to the small post on the solenoid. If it starts you found the problem. If not it could still be connections. Check the starter wire they corrode..

 

Check your connections as well, -make sure that loop isn't holding water on that 97. Not sure why they have it that way 0n the 97-98's, but when they trap water inside the coil wrap, any tiny hole or crack in the insulation can cause cause a number of problems, -mainly battery drain in a short period of time. -

I'd go thru the system, at least a visual check and wire wiggle at the starter. Be careful tho, chances are , if you atempt to remove that 10mm nut on the smaller post down there, it will bust right off. Their weak as hell. IF it's by chance double nutted at that post, -use TWO wrenches to take it loose. Don't try a just one , you'll be cusin lol.

If you do end up taking the harness loose at the starter, for whatever reason; -that's the only one that may bust on yuh, the others are fine. When they bust like that, I doubt you can fix it. I purchased a new starter when mine broke , way back when (learned the hard way). I couldn't figure out a good way to fix it, I'm not sure you can. That was my original tho, they take allot of abuse from the elements due to their location.

Starters themselves don't usually go bad in these trucks, -I haven't heard of to many anyway. If you end up having to get a new one. Oriely's carries the Bosch Starters and their guaranteed for life. It will be the last one you buy for that truck, - if you get the OEM Bosch. Don't worry about the receipt, if you break it again. They'll look you up on their computer. Always liked O'riely's/Murrays. When the dealerships closed, you can find quite a few OEM replacement parts from that supplier.

Damn , I fricken went long on this one... I'll shut up and post a shot of what you should see if you crawl under -




Good Luck.

 

Check your engine ground wire

 

You have two grounds down low, -just follow the harness. Engine ground, next to the starter/ -then frame ground behind the passenger side tire. You have another on the firewall ,- above the AC accumulator and canister. That's it for the cable grounds.

 

Here's the one behind the passenger Tire on the frame.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Got the alternator off yesterday; not too much of a PITA. Pulley was locked up, although I was able to break it loose. Gonna haul it along to town today (in the Lightning!) and check it out before installing the new one. Wondering if the fact that it was locked up/jammed prevented the engine from cranking????? Also gonna buy new battery terminal clamps.

I've had to repair the pos batt cable already: the big ring end corroded off a couple years ago and I ended up soldering a new copper ring onto it. So, I'll have to crawl under the truck and check it out (not gonna be fun as the truck is parked on a hill near my driveway). I'm tempted to think it's a cable issue, not a solenoid/starter issue. O'Reilly's has a Motorcraft replacement cable, but it's $117!!!

Anyway...the saga continues... I'll keep you guys posted.

Jim

 

Yea, It's not to difficult making your own custom harness, better than what you would get at the dealership, -if warranted. I only like one connection @ the post on each side, so I incorporated a power block (fused cable junction bar , hidden and out of site) - I run allot of power demanding Inverters and a big amp. Also a Ford 3G Alternator (130 amp Motorcraft).

When in comes to Alternators, try to stick with Motorcraft. Your chances of longevity are much greater IMO. I've read on quite a few occasions where guys having the hassle of returning Remans two or three times before getting a half way decent one.

I'm still using my original @ 272,000 miles .

Anyway, I priced OEM harness replacements twice at the dealership. Once for my 98 4X4 and the other was for a Windstar. Both were $300 + apiece.

 

You might want to bring in your battery and have them load test it too?? If you've had a bad alt all this time, and been running the truck, then recharge it later on, all that cycling on a NON deep cycle battery could have killed a cell or two?

Yes, it would show 12v and all of your accessories would still work.. But, hit that starter switch and your volts will drop like a stone... To the point where it won't even click...

Just throwing something else out there when I had a similar problem and thought it was the starter and the connections... Turned out to be the battery..

Mitch

 

Probably. When my compressor pulley bearing failed and locked the pulley, the starter could not crank the engine. I removed the serpentine belt and it cranked right over.

 

Well, that's good hear; hope that's all it is. Took old alternator back to vendor for core exchange and had them test it: FAILED (only putting out 12 volts).

So, gotta get some sunny weather to replace alternator and retry cranking.

Jim

 

Progress (?) report:

Well, finally threw the new alternator on and tried to fire it up again: no joy. Ran the shifter thru the gears and played around with the steering wheel tilt mechanism, but no good.

Crawled underneath and checked out the starter/solenoid cable connections and found they were badly corroded. Cleaned them off, but in doing so, the woven, flat (ground?) cable that runs from starter to solenoid broke off (rusted thru).

So, screw it: called the mechanic and gonna have it towed in.

Thoughts?

JIm

 

It took you long enough, - I posted that pic 8 days ago lol. Oh well, at least you finally looked ; ~ after throwing more parts at it .

Must not have had to much faith in my post..

The guys that frequent this site to help out, really know their stuff.

It may save you a little or lot of cash in the future. But yea, asking for help , then receiving it. - Attempt to apply your self would be the next step.

Glad you figured it out.