Just put storage insurance on the truck because it's taking me forever to do all this,- much needed body work. How should I go about protecting the engine while she's under the knife ?

I have sort of punch list for this: ~

1. I've been incorporating Auto RX for the internals. Engine runs perfect and has been since I joined this site.

2. I fire it up maybe once a week, - bring it up to operating temp, rev it up a few times, hold it @ about 2200 rpms for a minute or so. Let it idle for 15 seconds, then shut it down.

3. Just popped the rear vent on the fuel tank , drain all petrol, filled back up with 6 gallons of fresh, -no stabilizer. Old fuel was 4 months + old.

4. The oil and filter (FL820) is now 4 moths old w/1200 miles on it.

Am I missing something ? When should I change the oil ? I definitely don't want to hurt the motor, she's been to good to me. Any suggestions ? This 5.4L might be resting for another year or so... She don't like to rest, what else can I do to ease the pain ? She's going to be a looker when I'm done

Thanks,

jbrew

 

BTW- The crankcase has always seen 5w 30w Blend. Used Castrol thru it's younger years, - now Motorcraft. I've never caught this engine using oil, - thought I did once, but it was to close to tell (for sure anyway). BUT! I changed it every 3000 miles. I know , I know, - It's safe for 5000, but I felt better changing at 3000 and my old oil was used for heat. It wasn't a total waste.

Truck has 309,000 miles (90% Michigan Miles). Engine has 279,000 miles. Engine is a Ford Reman, installed 07/2000. Original Engine was run without oil, thus compromised.

This motor has allot of miles, but you can't tell,- **** about maintenance and upkeep. Mostly,- very impressed with this Ford Re-manufactured engine. Sort of sentimental I guess and curios to see how many miles I can put behind her before buying the farm.

It's never sat this long, attempting to prevent something going wrong when it's time to put her back on the road again.

So....- Should I keep doing what I'm doing or maybe , - pull the plugs and dump about 4 teaspoons of oil into each the cylinders or what lol.. I'm thinking it's just better to run it like I have been, - what do you guys think?

Yea, I guess the biggest question is oil. How long will viscosity last just sitting. It's garage stored, but most likely will go thru one more winter. Starting/idling in cold climates is a different story. I will change more frequently then if I continue w/firing her up each week. Sludge can build and block passage ways.

Hell, I might be over thinking this whole damn thing, iduno....

 

jbew sounds right to me what you are doung for the engine. My thought would be what about the trans/diff? Maybe want to put it up on stands and let it run thru the drive train. Even a little brake pressure to give it some load.
All the seals want to be "exercised" to keep them soft.

Just my $0.02 Can't wait to see it!

 

Just a couple of things I would do Jbrew: 1: Initial storage I would have new oil and filter in it also (#2) about at least once a month run the truck through the gears (on jackstands) to lube the rear and keep all the seals from drying up on her. Also maby unhook the Batt between runnings (your call on that one). One more thing...Fuel stabilizer is almost a must with that d***d ethanol fuel we have to use now.

 

Thanks fella's, yea great ideas! Has a E40D trans, -that was brought back to life in 06, thanks to Mike Troyer, - thought I needed a new one at one time, but it's been great since the Transgo kit was installed,- among other improvements that where done at the time. Rear end is still original, u-joints are to (hard to believe , but true). Brake system was gutted, everything, -hard-lines, cardon calipers, master, rotors, blah blah blah, - back in 08. But yea, I'll do that, - go thru the gears slowly. Work that open dif in the front as well.

Uknow, the only time that trans ever leaked is when I had the *** end jacked up for a long period of time. It leaked right at the filler tube hole where it connects to the trans. Strange thing was, it took awhile to start leaking, like a month or so in that position.

So, I don't leave it jacked up like that, I jack it up level if it's going to be on the stands for awhile.

Thanks guys

 

Any suggestions on stabilizer ? I do have some for small engines, - I guess it would work.- Alright, I'll get enough to treat 6 gallons when I'm out.

How long will that oil last in there ? If I put some fresh in their, will it last a year you think ? Or 6 months ?

For the battery, I re-charged it once so far. Disconnected from the truck of course and refreshed it using a Klien charger and minder on the auto setting. I have a question on that. It's a good charger, but it also has a maintenance free setting. Is the auto setting what I want ? I don't want to over-charge it and I can't locate the directions for this charger.

 

On the oil, depends on how long ya think you'll have it in storage. A blend can easily go a year. My Lincoln LSC just got an oil change this weekend and I put the Chevron Supreme oil in it May 2006. I had right at 450 miles on the oil. Key is when you do run it, let it idle for at least 20 minutes at full temp to unload the moisture and for the seals to get a soaking. If it's going to be longer, I'd suggest a mostly ester based oil like Redline and just leave it in the engine until you have the miles on the oil. Redline is polar positive and will literally stick to the parts when the engine is off. If going this route, use a 5w-30. Just remember to run it long enough to get rid of the moisture. Use any fuel stabilizer along with using a premium fuel to pop the octane level up. It's going to fall slowly with the stabilizer so yer kinda gettin' ahead of the curve using the 93 octane if ya have it in yer area. The stabilizer works by floating on top of the gas and cutting the air off- kinda like a lid in the tank. The gas will last at least a year with the stabilizer. The battery can be charged by using a timer to come on for about 10-15 minutes a day considering a taper charge type charger. There are also solar powered trickle chargers that work great and only put out less than a watt which is enough to keep a battery charged. Make sure to disconnect the battery when not running the engine otherwise there will be parasitic drain on it. When you do run the engine, make sure to put the tranny in gear for at least 10 minutes to build heat and service the seals. You can use 2 oz of Auto-Rx in it to keep the seals in good shape. When you do start to drive it again, run the Auto-Rx in the tranny about 1500 miles and then flush it.

 

I don't think the oil will be a problem, it's not going to get much use if you are just warming the motor. That would probably be fine, then fresh when it's ready to hit the road. Some body like Labnerd could tell you better.

Never used stabilizer out here on the left coast-we run everything year round, but there should be a ratio, I would think.

The battery you might want to disconnect then re-hook for your weekly warm ups. Then there isn't any draw on it. Or you could switch it with your daily driver every couple of weeks.

Now be warned jbrew this is all non scientific suggestions I'm giving...alright!

Guess I'm too slow on the keyboard cause Labnerd is on it!

 

The same Sta-Bil you put in the lawnmower is fine for the gas. Try to find gas without ethanol.

 

Yea, I've always used the blend and stuck with 5/30 even tho the recommended was changed sometime in 2000. Hell, I didn't know I realize it had for a few years after the fact; - not until I started seeing it spelled on the 01 model year oil filler caps lol.
Driven a Lincoln now as a dd. An 04 Grand Marquis w/that 4six. Nice car, I like how the seat will suck right down to the floor board if you need the room. I might even keep the hair on my head a little longer .
May 2006 - and that's okay? Well, you would know, -and that's good to know, -thanks!
Yea, I realize the moisture build up is an issue. I question run time after operating temperature is there. ?? I may just have to wing that, as it may depend upon other climate factors.
Well, I learned something. - I didn't know stabilizer worked in that way. Sunoco sells that 94 octane here. My concern was for the injectors and varnish clogging the internal injector filters. Their fairly new still so yea, again, thanks for that info.
Got it, - that I wasn't doing, but I've been watching it. In a weeks time she'll drop to 12.28v, -from 12.78, fully charged and after shut down.
Auto RX for the trans ? I must have over looked it for the trans, but I'll get some for sure. Currently, the trans (E4OD) was flushed (more than once) very well ( I ran at-least 60 quarts thru her, -don't ask why lol) back in 07. Final fill = Amsoil (18 qrts I believe) + a couple cans of Red Lube. It has to have between 30-40 thousand on the fluid, 0 problems so far, but that trans itself has over 300,000 miles on it and they weren't all easy miles lol.
I am guilty of using some of that Seafoam stuff when I flushed her last, butt she gottuh a major enema when all that went down lol.

Yea, here's what I tried (it's that stuff hiding in the back) -



Also installed a filter kit from Ford -



Didn't use their hose clamps ^^^ I made up a couple flared line sections since this filter is threaded at each end.

Thanks Labnerd, great advice per usual

 

For the last 10 years I've stored my mach i every year for 6 months sometimes with out starting it 1 time. I keep it in a storage unit and sometimes I don't see the car for 4-5 months. Its a carburated car and all so.. All I do it fill the tank full right before i store it. Thats it. fires right up every year. Battery hasn't ever even went dead. I change the oil every spring- some say you should change it right before storing it but I've just always done it that way. I think you should relax. It will be fine.

 

All Sunoco fuel is E-10. Your best shot at pure gas is Shell V-Power.

 

Shell V Power, - Great! Thank you sir. Hey, I got a comment for your coil post in another thread in this forum somewhere. I just haven't posted it...Yet

I have to doctor it up a bit, - only the best for you lol

 

Mine don't like to sit for more than 3 days. Otherwise, she talks to me on startup.. All sortsa funkies. I think the best but probably the most pain in the **** option is to start it once a week. If thats not possible, biggest concern would be condensation/moisture. Through the exhaust, or any other partially open areas. That seemed to be what I fought most on the motor I picked up, It had sat for years in a partially heated area. Had rust pits on the fuel rail, and behind the water pump was a build up of rust, even though it had the nicest brightest fresh colored coolant in it, condensation still got to it. It led to a lot of cleaning. I don't know if 1 year will affect it that much. Would also be worried about fuel gumming up the injectors, but you may have covered that by adding the stabilizer, just not sure how long that will last. I don't like letting anything sit for too long. I have super hero hearing and will psyche myself out when I get around to starting it up, listening to every little noise lol.

Good luck on your projects. You should and probably will keep the big stuff updated on here for everyone to keep up with.

 

oh I just noticed the year thing. I thought I read a few months.. I'd probably take a little more precaution like changing the oil before and all. It will be fine though. When I did the mach I it took 3 years pretty much and it never got driven the whole time. Had a brand new motor and all. It still runs great.. different deal and all but I wouldn't worry to much about storage effects even with it being a year. It will be fine. If its not youll fix it.