My '01 F150 5.4L started acting up a couple weeks ago, but after some great info on here I was able to narrow it down on my own to the COP's and using the pull a connector while it's running I was able to narrow it down to cyl 1 & 4.

So in an attempt to give back, here are my measured results of new vs bad COP's.
My multimeter reads 0.1ohm when I short the leads together so I have subtracted 0.1ohm from the measured results. (you should adjust your results based on the same test)

New COP (3 tested)
Primary resistance: 0.7-0.8ohms (out of the box not installed yet)
Output to each primary connection: 9k-9.5K (not measureable once installed)

Bad COP's (2 tested)
Primary resistance: 0.3-0.4ohms (after removal)
Output to each primary connection: 5k-5.5k (after removal)

Now, this may make these results useless. The replacement COP's are NOT motorcraft, they are the cheap ebay version, item #120579423428. I don't know how the quality compares but the truck runs like a charm now.

For the sake of testing, I am going to test a couple of the remaining original COP's while installed and removed to see if there is a difference in measurement and to see if they can be measured while in the truck. For all I know at the moment new/working motorcraft COP's may measure as the same values as the "Bad COP's" listed above, but I will follow up when I know more.

If someone has new/old (but working) motorcraft COP's that can be measured it might be helpful to post the results here.

Thanks for all the great info, it's really nice that I can come here and "virtually" diagnose the problems I'm having before even poping the hood. It gives me a huge head start!

 

What mileage did you change them at?
The 'ebay version' doesn't have a manufacturer listed, was there one on the paperwork or box that they came in?

I like the general rule of getting replacement parts. Not to say these COPs are going to be junk but you never know. When I changed my COPs The primary resistance on the new motorcraft COP was 0.6-0.7ohms and the old ones were 0.4-0.5ohms. I'm not a mechanic or anything just self taught tinker but your resistance might be a little high. Never know until we can get a manufacturer, you could ask the seller and see what he says if you don't know.

I'm the same way. I just recently made an account though, never really thought about posting until the other day.

 

I measured a few more of the good, but old COP's for comparison. The good motorcraft ones measure 0.6-0.7ohms. And I measured the remaining new "ebay" ones and they all measure in the 0.7-0.8ohm range.

I would have prefered motorcraft however all the dealerships here want $60-$70 each, I'm not sure if that is comparable to US prices or not. The truck isn't a daily driver, it's a haul stuff too big for the car kind of truck/secondary vehicle. The G35 gets driven daily and the truck might get driven 6 times a month.

As for the brand of the ebay version I forgot, however it's a red/black box and starts with R. I'll update when I get home.

 

The cheap Ebay cops generally are OEM quality. There's nothing magic about Motorcraft cops, they all come from China.

 

Coils are one of those deals that either work of they dont. Testing them has proven irrelevant. some time they test good but still dont work..

 

Right. - The only way to successfully test is thru the WDS kit from Rotunda.

Channel 3 , stress test red. Or you can cylinder history count via monitor (misfire monitor).

Coils must be tested under load for low grade misfire counts.

 

But hell, after the DoItYourSelfer's are thru with pulling every last hair from their skulls, they visit this sites search bar to realize the easiest and cheapest route to deal with the problem.

Answer: ~ Purchase a 10 Pack of DG508's from Global (GAMMA's) (around $100). Before install, check resistance, yes resistance = DG508. I believe yield resistance = 508 - 540. This is for ignition integrity only.

You'll have two spares, just in case, - but get the 10 packs, - that's all I have purchased in the past and have had great luck.

 

Oh , here - Watch Scotty -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh-UM...eature=related

 

Monitoring thru drive cycle procedure to the reproducer; "exact" fault "load" to determine fault. =

1. For applications with the Fuel Level Input (FLI) circuit to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (Pin 12), check the fuel gauge and the FLI Parameter Identification (PID) on the scan tool (if available). The Misfire Monitor can only be tested if the fuel gauge reads above one quarter full or the FLI PID is above 15% (percentage fuel tank fill).
2. Start the engine and drive the vehicle to a location where speeds can reach 88 to 97 kph (55 to 60 mph) and coast down to 64 kph (40 mph) without traffic interference.
3. Accelerate at wide-open throttle to allow vehicle to shift at red-line (if equipped with a tachometer). Immediately return to normal speed limits.
4. Perform the following drive procedure three consecutive times.

1. Accelerate on highway to 97 kph (60 mph). Maintain speed for 30 seconds.
2. Coast down with foot off the accelerator pedal from 97 to 64 kph (60 to 40 mph).

5. Rerun Quick Test. Refer to Diagnostic Subroutine DSR1. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Diagnostic Subroutines (DSR) - Extracting Codes\DSR1 - Vehicle Preparation.

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Mode6 = Cylinder History Read {EVENT}: ~$$$$$$$$$$$$$$~